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Two Nagging Driveline Problems

3418 Views 19 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  gooseyloosey
I am the original owner of my 2008 RRS and now have just hit 13K miles. I have two problems with the driveline which my dealer can not fix. First is when stopped at a stoplight there is an annoying vibration that can be felt though the seats and on your thighs (front seats only). If I put it in Park or Neutral the vibration goes away. My dealer has checked it out, confirms what I feel, says some RRS's have it, some don't and that there is no more they can do. That have had a Tech Rep(?) look at the vehicle too and the official word back to me is that "it is functioning as designed but not as desired - sorry, there is nothing more we can do for you." Next issue, which I suspect is related is that my RRS does not want to start smoothly from a rolling stop. When I give her gas there is a pause or hesititaion unless I am very delicate with the throttle. My dealer has suggested I call LRNA but suggested they probably won't do anything. In general I had been satisfied with my dealer and their service derpartment. Not any more.

Any suggestions or help.

Thanks in advance,

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I have a 2008, and do not have driveline vibration issues, so its not normal. But there have been a number of complaints on the forum in the past regarding that. If I remember correctly, someone solved that w new motor mounts but @13K unless they were defective to begin with, those haven't worn out yet. But it could be worth a check.

Maybe there's a EPROM reflash the dealer can do on the transmission and/or engine to make sure its all up to date that might help both your problems.

Good luck and let us know if you solve it!
I have an 09 and also have the "hesitation" from a complete stop. My dealer told me that it was a simple software fix. But when I picked it up, they said that I already had latest and greatest software.
Is your RRS supercharged? I have that slight delay issue but I assumed it was something with the fact that it wasn't smooth as the HSE's.
I agree that its could be the engine mounts, if you open the hood and have someone rev the egine you could see movement, or oil arround the mounts.

I know its low mileage, but could it be the plugs. Could be slightly fouled, causing the vibration and the hesitation.
I have what seems to be the exact buzz that you describe. It's been there since 1300 miles if not less. ( now 46000) I had motor mounts, front subframe mounts (bushings?) I think the front diff mounts and a few other things replaced as I remember. No difference. The area LR rep agreed with me that it was not normal. The dealer spent a lot of time with NJ engineers looking for the problem. Isolating the steering system, some of the ancillary belt driven devices etc. The last reply from NJ was that it was a normal variation in the vehicle, and they would not go any further. ( car is 2006 HSE with Brembo/ suspension of Supercharged). Apparently the senior tech in the dealer has noticed at least 2 others with the same buzz/vibration. Maybe someday a cause will be found.
That buzz may not be driveline. It may be caused by a short in one of your high power accessories. Accessories like the windshield heater or seat heaters pull a lot of power. If you have a RR with smooth idle and turn on the windshield heat you can feel a vibration from the alternator power demand until the idle picks up and smoothes out the load.
See if turning on windshield heat, rear window heat, headlamps or seat heat makes it worse.
If some do, but one does not, suspect that unit may not be turning off with the switch. I have had other cars with windshield heat that donot turn off.
See if you can check the main power cable from the alternator for excess load at idle.
You may have a leaky alternator diode.
The Compressor pump is now located under the car. If you have a leaky pump, it might be drawing excess current.
Hope this may help
To answer a previous question, no, she is not supercharged.

Re. the post above, I will check this out later this week (I'm away on business right now) but I think that you may be on to something because the issue is most noticeable during the cold weather months. I'll check it out and advise.

Thanks for the advice.

I just noticed something similar on my HSE, It feels sluggish and when I come to a stop a vibration shutters thru the car. It feels as if some system is adjusting the throttle to correct the car to proper idle 500-700 RPM.
I recently filled my gas tank at a different than usual gas station so i'm thinking that that could be a factor. My throttle feels unresponsive and the car feels heavy (as if I really have to push on the pedal to get it going).
My issue until now was that the car was too jumpy out of the gate so I had to really moderate pedal pressure, so starts weren't so jerky, now I'm all the way on the other end of the spectrum.
I was going to disconnect and reconnect the battery hoping that all systems would reset to factory spec, is that correct or am just smoking "hopium" ?
The only way to clear the adaptive transmission is via diagnostics, unfortunately. A battery reset won't clear the "adaptions". See the ZF Transmission Troubleshooting document.
Thanks Umbertob. I read that earlier, but i'm thinking my issue is throttle related, not transmission. My wife has been using the RRS so i figured I would clear the engine adaptations. Zap all the feather footing out of the thing.
Ah, gotcha. Well, it can't hurt to try it out. At worst you may have to re-enter radio stations in memory. Make sure you wait a good couple of minutes (from ignition shutoff) before disconnecting the battery, waiting 10 minutes more and touching the 2 terminals that go to the battery (NOT the battery terminals, for Heaven's Sake! :lol: ) together.
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: Thank you for the terminal clarification, but with me, you never know.
Done! all systems as designed. I did the "hard reset" and throttle is back to " bothers the wife mode". There should be a switch in the dash that performed the whole "hard reset".
Even my Magnetic Attenuator or MA is working as designed don't get me started on the Particle Collimator Filter or PCF.

Rafa out!, happy
Thanks Umbertob. Did you notice that the trany looks for a corner by checking front wheel differential speed? These engineers have too much free time on there hands. Its a wonder that it lets me park in the garage. I wonder what this does, if you are on ice, doing doughnuts, as we use to when the lakes froze over are we were a tad younger.
Rafa, if you want to further enhance throttle tip in, select "sand/saguaro cactus" mode on the terrain selector.
gooseyloosey said:
"sand/saguaro cactus"
:lol: saguaro catus mode is great for getting a feel for all the power the sport really has.
Once you go Saguaro you never go back
bop08 said:
Thanks Umbertob. Did you notice that the trany looks for a corner by checking front wheel differential speed? These engineers have too much free time on there hands. Its a wonder that it lets me park in the garage. I wonder what this does, if you are on ice, doing doughnuts, as we use to when the lakes froze over are we were a tad younger.
In that case, take DSC off, and that will allow wheel slippage and eliminates the auto correction feature.

If you try "drifting" on a gravel or icy road with the DSC on, you'll feel it correct your slippage very noticeably, as soon as DSC is off, you can then begin to drift sideways a bit...to the point the tires permit without rolling the beads off...quite fun!!

On the last trip to Moab in the winter, the roads were very slippery, lots of hairpin turns and I could get the RRS sliding sideways in a controlled drift by taking the DSC off...loads of fun!!
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