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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter #1
The History: Starting Issue
About 4 weeks ago, the vehicle would not start after being unused for 5 days. Called roadside assistance. They connected an auxiliary jumper battery and it still would not start. Let sit for five minutes and then it did. Used vehicle for two weeks without issues then took to dealer for service to check out this issue.

After a full check-out, they could not replicate problem. They stated that most likley the computer stayed on and drained battery. Battery tested OK.

All of last week I was out of town while the vehicle was in the garage; go to start and it would not start. RRS was locked and the keys are about 15 feet away in my bedroom. Ignition will come on and act "goofy" but it will not start. Door locks work, emergency brake works....

Anyone else have this issue?

The vehicle was flatbedded out of here yesterday! :x :oops: :?:
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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BWB, Mine did the same thing after sitting for 4 days. The ignition turns on but the engine would not start. I connected jumpers...nothing. After 20mins messing around with it, it finally fired up. One thing I did note though is that it only started after I brought both keys inside the car...not sure if that made any difference.

My car went to the dealer shortly after and they claim to have done an immobilizer update. I have not had an issue since however I haven't let the car sit longer than a day.

Keep us posted and let us know what they tell you....

Good Luck!
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter #3
TRI - Thanks for the update and responding.
I tried both keys but individually. I'll let the dealer know about checking into the immobolizer. BWB
 

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I had this sometimens with my p38 range rover.
I can be a anti theft thing, i just disconnected the battery, and it worked fine (seems that de computer thinks that the car is stolen).
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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The immobilizer issue should have been taken care of as part of the Q093 service campaign (I'm assuming you got that done to your 2010), this sounds more like some slow drain on the battery from one of the electronic components not completely shutting itself off when you remove the key from the ignition. After a few days, the battery may be depleted just enough not to be able to turn the starter. Hopefully the dealer will figure it out.
 

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Umbertop, it doesn't seem to be a battery issue at all though because the cars end up firing up with no problems after some time with their own power.

BWB, just to clearify, mine did this BEFORE the Q093 update and hasn't done it since however it also hasnt sat longer than 24hours without starting up...

Whats the build date of your 2010? Mine is 07/09... Have you had the Q093 update done?
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter #7
I'm not certain of the build date...I have the window sticker but the vehicle is at the dealer. I recall the build date being 7/09 through 9/09.

Q093 was done 1 week ago.

Thanks for all the help fella's. I'll advise when I know no more.
 

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If your issue is related to the campaign, you will get a message "smart key not found" when you attempt to start the vehicle. Other wise you may have a low voltage issue which the campaign does not address. You need to isolate the issue "before" a fix can be attempted. ibis1 ;)
 

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BWB RRS HSE said:
They connected an auxiliary jumper battery and it still would not start. Let sit for five minutes and then it did.
Was it just a battery itself? Connected to a running vehicle?

TriGem2k said:
I connected jumpers...nothing. After 20mins messing around with it, it finally fired up.
Same question here, specifics?

It seems in both cases the possible "dead" battery might have needed a small charge first? I know this has been the case with other cars I've tried to jump in the past with really dead batteries. :think:
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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2010s use a new "Battery Management System" module, integrated within the battery leads, which is supposed to measure the current status and voltage levels of the battery and send the information to the CJB and engine control modules. See enclosed detail from the 2010 LA/LS/LM Training Manual. In case of power supply problems, the module can generate and store DTCs for the shop to troubleshoot. Note how they recommend not using the negative terminal - but a ground point instead - when jump starting or recharging a battery, as doing it wrong can generate fault codes and wrong battery charge information to be stored in the module for a "period of time"... I wonder if this may explain why, in both of your instances, the car eventually started, but not right away when jumping it with a donor battery.

Also note how installing a new battery will require "recalibration" of the BMS module with new battery parameters. :evil: You know what that means... Replacing a dead battery on these cars in the future will probably require a visit to your friendly dealer and an expensive diagnostics software session, not a quick trip to your nearest auto parts store for a DIY replacement.
 

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umbertob said:
You know what that means... Replacing a dead battery on these cars in the future will probably require a visit to your friendly dealer and an expensive diagnostics software session, not a quick trip to your nearest auto parts store for a DIY replacement.
I fully expect with the 2013 MY you will only be able to fill the gas tank at the dealership.

I refuse to play along with these shenanigans and will gladly buy used cars from this point if this's the way its gonna be.
 

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TripleE, I tried to jump start the car with one of those portable jumpers that they have at costco. The jumpers were connected to the car for maybe a minute or two while I tried the start button. After the car wouldn't start I disconnected the jumper pack. There is no way that the jumper pack has enough power to recharge the battery.

I did note this though... When the car did start up it was when BOTH keys were inside and the start button was pressed. I'm not sure if that is an immobilzer issue after the car had been sitting for a while. It just doesn't make sense though because what if someone where to park their car at an airport (not that I would ever do that) while traveling and come back with only one key and can not start their car. That would just be stupid to have to have both keys with you.

I know Porsche has an immbolizer system that will shut off the transmitter to the keys after the car has sat for 5days. The only way the car will reconginze the keys after that is if your manually unlocked the doors from the driver side key hole. Porsche does this because many owners store their cars for the winter and it helps preserve the battery.

Anyway, my car is going back to the dealer tomorrow for some other stuff, I'll ask them again about this issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
umbertob said:
2010s use a new "Battery Management System" module, integrated within the battery leads, which is supposed to measure the current status and voltage levels of the battery and send the information to the CJB and engine control modules. See enclosed detail from the 2010 LA/LS/LM Training Manual. In case of power supply problems, the module can generate and store DTCs for the shop to troubleshoot. Note how they recommend not using the negative terminal - but a ground point instead - when jump starting or recharging a battery, as doing it wrong can generate fault codes and wrong battery charge information to be stored in the module for a "period of time"... I wonder if this may explain why, in both of your instances, the car eventually started, but not right away when jumping it with a donor battery.
Thank you umbertob - I relayed this info to the dealer.

When they tried to start it on Monday, it started (of course) with no need to jump. They think that the battery has a bad cell or something but NALR will not authorize a replacement until they replicate the problem. Since I am out of town for 10 days, they are going to keep it and see if they can replicate.

I did tell them I was unhappy and they said they understood....nice of them.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
TripleE said:
BWB RRS HSE said:
They connected an auxiliary jumper battery and it still would not start. Let sit for five minutes and then it did.
Was it just a battery itself? Connected to a running vehicle?

It was connected to a jumper battery contraption.
 

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sarosaro said:
I had this sometimens with my p38 range rover.
I can be a anti theft thing, i just disconnected the battery, and it worked fine (seems that de computer thinks that the car is stolen).
This happens to me every couple of months. It's the anti theft deal on my 2006. The car responds to the key but wont start the car, I have to get in the car, turn the alarm on by locking the car, wait about five minutes then unlock the doors - disabling the anti theft and it starts right up. Very frustrating when you need to get somewhere in a hurry. It's as if the anti theft needs to be reset.
 

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I have a 2010 RR HSC, I have had the same issue, car will not start after 4 or 5 days of sitting without bring driven. Called tow truck, tried to jump, still wont start. Put RR in neutral to tow & RR started. Still had towed to dealed, RR showed no code on computer.
Happened again same issue wont start, Put RR in neutral & it started & put it back in park & it started as it should, still sent back to dearler & told them to keep it for 4 days to see if it will do it for them. Also asked that they contact the engineers about this issue, because someone else has this same problem.
If your RR wont start after sitting for a few days, put your foot on the brake & shift it to neutral & It should start. With foot still on brake put shifter back in Park. Then turn it off, now see if it will start in Park.
I hope that this will help you at least get it started.
 

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Believe it or not I had something similar. Everything would work but it wouldn't start. My dealer said that the iPhone sometimes blockes the key signal. I turned it my phone off and let it sit and it started right up.
 

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I have a 2010 RR HSC, I have had the same issue, car will not start after 4 or 5 days of sitting without bring driven. Called tow truck, tried to jump, still wont start. Put RR in neutral to tow & RR started. Still had towed to dealed, RR showed no code on computer.
Happened again same issue wont start, Put RR in neutral & it started & put it back in park & it started as it should, still sent back to dearler & told them to keep it for 4 days to see if it will do it for them. Also asked that they contact the engineers about this issue, because someone else has this same problem.
If your RR wont start after sitting for a few days, put your foot on the brake & shift it to neutral & It should start. With foot still on brake put shifter back in Park. Then turn it off, now see if it will start in Park.
I hope that this will help you at least get it started.
Interesting, just had this happen this morning to my wife's 2006. Neutral and it will start, but needs a few repeats. Park. No. Going back in tomorrow and am going to suggest to dealer that it's selector sensor. The idea of the sensor is to prevent you from starting it in gear, of course.
 
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