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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
Trying to locate a small water leak, left hand top (ish) of V8

Ever since buying the RR, a 4.0 V8 HSE, model year 2000 with Thor engine, 3 years back I've had an annoying small water loss pretty much correlated with start ups rather than run time. Initially loss was so small that I was unsure that it actually had a leak buts its slowly built up to perhaps a teaspoon per start up last year and finally this week its got big enough to be a proper leak with a small trickle of water visible when ducking under immediately after stopping. Trickle is down front left side edge of block (looking forwards from inside the car) with final drip off the corner sump bolt head. Water pump housing along with the castings supporting the air con compressor and alternator are clean but the front of the block behind them shows up wet, dirty and a bit oily.

First thought was that the source was the feed to the throttle heater but hose seems OK and, so far as can be ascertained from the limited visibility the actual connection to the block is OK. Surrounding area isn't unreasonably dirty for an 85,000 mile car but it may have had water on it. There is some pink crud around the joint and on the throttle heater hose connections suggesting that its had some leak stop jollop in the system before. Changing the coolant last year will have flushed most of that out. The leak stepped up a gear shortly after changing coolant which is suggestive. Its tempting to get another can of jollop and see if that works but I'd rather fix it properly. Car obviously had a new water pump before I got it, probably around 70,000 miles, a looks like all the major flexible hoses were also done.

Any advice on how to get better visibility of the leak and suggestions as to what else it might be gratefully received. I guess I have to take the inlet casting et al off to get at things should it be hose and/or connector problems.

Front crankshaft oil seal has just started leaking too so plan is to spend some quality time fixing that and the water leak at the same time. New rocker box gaskets too whilst I'm in there as got the usual RR weeps. Is there anything else that might as well be done whilst I'm in there. Unfortunately the viscous fan nut has got a couple of rounded corners from previous mechanic. Probably best to sort something a bit better than the usual sheet steel spanners in case its gorilla tight. Would it be safe to build up the unhappy corners with weld once I've got it off?

Thanks

Clive
 

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Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
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230 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Re: Trying to locate a small water leak, left hand top (ish) of V8

Bump.
Leak getting worse quite quickly and left enough evidence today for it to be located. Timing cover gasket has gone.

Looks a pretty straightforward job, albeit a fair bit of unbolting and re-bolting involved. I presume sensible option is to pull the water radiator out to make more room. Is there anything else beyond the obvious parts that should be changed whilst I'm in there e.g. serpentine belt tensioner pulley? Any special recommendations from a UK perspective as to RTV for the sump gasket or will any half decent brand do?

Are the dimensions for the business ends of the viscous fan and crank / pulley holding doobies on line anywhere? As I've got decent machine shop facilities it would be easy to make some good quality uber rigid ones. All that seems to be on offer are cut from sheet devices. Even tho' they usually work I'm no fan of that construction for this sort of job. Especially when working on a vehicle with some evidence of gorilla attention. Figure that a deep, wall drive style, impact driver socket on a long breaker bar is best combination of weapons for the crank end nut. If I make my own crank / pulley holding device I figure a drum style bored fairly close fit to my socket would be best as providing some support for the socket to keep it straight on the nut when heaving.

Any tips for making the job go easier?

Clive
 
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