Hi. Mine was replaced by the dealer with new one so I do not have first hand knowledge but as far as I know it is not a simple bolt-off / on
what I read about the subject - you'd need to carry over a controller part of your mechatronic or face the fact that You'd need to take the truck to the dealer afterwards for replacement tranny to be synced with ECM.
Also, if you'd be taking off mechatronic - plenty of videos about that on youtube, you should order set of sleeves from ZF and replace them, also there is a set of valves/clutches available too that is also being recommended to be replaced. Replacing those will ensure smooth operation in the future. Also - body would have to come off the chassis, Unlike full size LR, BMW and other vehicles that use this ZF Tranny, RRS has a chassis crossmember right under Transmission that gives you hell while simply changing fluid/filter, forget about whole tranny swap.
I have not direct experience so I cannot comment on using a used box, however given the price you will pay for a good transmission (expensive for good, cheap for no good), you might as well just get your transmission rebuilt and an authorised ZF service agent. Dont forget the torque converter as well.
Unfortunately I do. Our 2011 lost first gear at 80k miles. Had it replaced with one I found on ebay out of a wrecked LR4 with about 40k miles. I took the original box apart and couldn't find anything obviously wrong with it. It was an independent shop and it seems like labor was around $2500. Problem was, the doofus who owned the supposed Land Rover specialty shop in OKC didn't have the proper gear or know-how to reset the "new" trans to our truck. He even drove it 40 miles round trip in 2nd gear to some other shop trying to get help.
Got it back with 1st and 2nd gears only. Took the pan down in my driveway, switched our original mechtronic unit in and it worked perfectly. I'd do the job myself if I had it all to do over again. Conclusion, you can swap in a new used trans, just move your mechtronic unit over.
As mentioned above, change out all the "consumables" before buttoning things back up. I'd still like to find someone help me fix the one sitting in my garage.
Time to replace the front and rear brake pads/rotors and engine oil/filter change.
FCP Euro prices is competitive with other online retailers. One thing positive is they offer lifetime replacements on all there products except aerosol sprays and additives...
Deleted two this morning, and will continue to delete stuff from folks who are basically too lazy to read the rules.
Put your location. Add your rig details to your signature. Try the search function before posting repeatedly asked questions.
From the very top section of the forum...
Driving at low highway and surface street speeds my '06 RRS has developed a pronounced noise leak in the left rear pit area. As nearly as I can tell, it's coming from the left side vent back in the pit. I checked my doors, all latched, the glass on left side of the vehicle, interior body panels...
Just want to share with you guys on my past weekend project.
Over the weekend i replaced the front and rear sway bar bushing with polyurethane bushing from lucky 8. The factory rubber bushing was creaking and knocking badly. (The vehicle bushings was replaced by the dealer 3 times already)