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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All,
Over the course of the last 2 years my ZF transmission has been giving me issues. Initially, I was noticing a harsh 2-1 downshift when coming to a stop. this went from being intermittent to probably 70% of the time. As time progressed, shifts when decelerating and accelerating also became abrupt, sometimes slamming. I haven't received any transmission fault codes at all. This is for the Jaguar 4.2 S/C engine with the ZF transmission with 154k miles.

After taking it to Range Rover they advised me not to clear the adaptives as this would most likely make things worse. As far as what I could do... well replace the transmission! That was to the tune of many thousands of dollars. Upon researching the topic further I went to a local transmission shop and had another evaluation done. They recommended replacing the Mechatronic unit which included the TCM unit along with a new valve body. That was better but still almost 4k. Looking further I noticed a company that was close by in Charlotte, NC. Revmax. They had a remanufactured valve body for this transmission in stock. The transmission shop said they could do this, but it might not be as good as OEM. For 1600 out the door I thought it was worth a shot. With my vehicle it proved to be difficult. The first valve body wouldn't relearn the adaptives after being installed. The second valve body, upon test driving, was slow to relearn, but after 5 drive cycles finally smoothed out. I've put 500 miles on it and it's shifting silky smooth, better than it ever has for me since I purchased it at 60k miles. A complete mechatronic unit would most likely have been the easiest option. I know also that the transmission shop most likely won't ever do that again as he said it was a "nightmare" to relearn. My own experience with this topic was interesting in the progression of repair costs and that I think I was definitely lucky with everything in the end.

As a side note, if you are receiving trans fault codes, there are a couple of pieces that go between the mechatronic unit and the transmission. Specifically a bridge adapter and connecting sleeves. These are fairly inexpensive and in a few forums I've read where you can replace those items along with performing a transmission service and have had successful conclusions. That would probably be around 5 to 600 hundred dollars. My bridge adapter and sleeves were still in good shape. CTSC transmission out of CA had a good assortment of small parts and service items available.

I hope this might help someone out looking into this concern.
 

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Your first Revmax valvebody had issues?

Then they exchanged it for a second?

I got a revmax valvebody 3-4 years ago. Had different issues than my original. They reluctantly replaced it. The second one had a while new set of issues, but none of the problems my original had, and also not the same as the issues their first one had.

I gave up on Revmax.

I also found out that the "list" of stuff they do to the valvebodies is kind of BS. I was under the assumption that they did ALL THE FIXES ON THE LIST, but they don't. They just don't minimal that is required, then ship them out.

My experience with them was pretty crappy.

I still have 1 of their valvebodies sitting in my garage.

I'll never deal with them again.



Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I called Revmax before having the work done and the rep said he knew the shop I was taking it to. The shop said they regularly picked up valve bodies from them. Having a relationship probably helped the return process. I was leary as well wondering just how in depth the reman process was. Again, the best option would have been to go with a new mechatronic unit from the dealer but I was betting on the reman valve body working. Sometimes it doesn't pan out but I got lucky on this one. The universe will try to get what I saved, don't worry about that.

It's disappointing though that the dealer doesn't want to do anything with transmissions anymore. With the ZF there are certainly other options other than just putting in a new or reman unit.
 

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Dealer know how to replace units. There is no money to be made at the dealership by fixing transmissions or even servicing them. Sadly this has been the case since the first gen L322s
 

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My local dealership was willing to pull the tranny and take it to a tranny shop and have it rebuilt, or replace it with a whole new unit.

But they wouldn't service the tranny themselves. I'm sure they'd replace the valve body and mechatronic, but that's it.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 

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Great info 07Rover! Thank you for posting this. Local too. My 08 RRSC is beginning to show these same signs although mine is has a little slip between 3rd and 4rth which comes and goes and just today sitting in traffic on I-77 I started to get hard up and downshifts between 2nd and 3rd. The intermittent behavior pointed me towards the valve body as well. Newbie question but what is the mechtronic you guys speak of?
What part of the valve body causes them to fail? Is it a sealing/pressure issue with o-rings?
 

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By far the most common problem with the 6HP26 is solenoid issues. My starting point would always be to just replace the solenoids with a new set (ZF p/n 1068 298 044). You can do this yourself. A new set costs around $300 USD/£250 GBP. Replace the bridge seal, four rubber jump tubes and the mechatronic connector sleeve at the same time.











Phil
 

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What is your opinion on rebuilt solenoids? I've found multiple sites offering reman units for $130 USD. I am a long time Rover owner/enthusiast that is used to rebuilding everything as I drive these trucks out of love not because I'm rich and they happen to be the nicest SUVs money can buy. I could see maybe a servo getting worn and tired requiring a new one but I can also see how I could pull my valve body and find my solenoid controlling clutch C having a coat of junk on it's filter screen or a worn leaking o-ring.
 

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So I've spent a bit of time going through the forum digging for more info on the 6HP26 and not coming up with the info I need. Also spent a bit of time on the Sonnax website. Great info there. When I search 3-4 shift flares the only thing that pops up is the E Latch valve bore prematurely wearing on valve bodies with the 047 separator plate. You wouldn't happen to know which plate was used in the 2008 FFRR 4.2SC trans would you RRPHIL?
This shift issue is killing me! Mainly because today driving was around 120k miles and few times leaving traffic stops under normal acceleration it seemed to shift normal!
 

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RRPhil,

Taking your advice and ordering the ZF solenoids along with the bridge seal, jump tubes, connector sleeve, and 6 qts of ZF LG6. I'll be replacing the filter while I'm at it. Truck is an 08 with 117k miles. Would you rebuild the valve body at this point as well? If so, is the Sonnax Zip kit a good quality kit? I'd also like your opinion on manufacturers of the bridge seal, jump tubes, and connector. I see many available online.


By far the most common problem with the 6HP26 is solenoid issues. My starting point would always be to just replace the solenoids with a new set (ZF p/n 1068 298 044). You can do this yourself. A new set costs around $300 USD/£250 GBP. Replace the bridge seal, four rubber jump tubes and the mechatronic connector sleeve at the same time.











Phil
 

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Would you rebuild the valve body at this point as well?
That shouldn’t be necessary. I would just replace the solenoids initially. The biggest issue is whether to risk having the adaptions reset, especially as the fluid is being replaced. Only use genuine ZF parts, available from authorised distributors like Eriksson Industries and The CTSC.

Phil
 

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I'm glad you mentioned the adaption. I forgot to ask about that. I don't have a diagnostic tool yet and have been researching for the best value (not the cheapest) tool for my application and needs. I wouldn't be able to kick off a reset without this correct? Thanks for your advise sir. I'll just order the solenoids and proper seals to reinstall the valve body properly to start.
 

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Hi Phil. Please redirect me if a better thread is elsewhere but I've been digging for a few hours now and cannot find what this part is that I broke while simply attempting this repair "gear selector linkage plate and bushing" http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-range-rover-mark-iii-l322/47764-transmission-slips-out-gear-light-after-driving-while.html

So in order to replace the bushing, it appears at first you should also replace the little arm/plate. I'm not sure it's actually necessary except from an access purpose but I went on to remove the 13mm nut at the special flat sided bolt/pin coming out of the case. Of course the nut was rusty while the bolt was not bu the gap allowed by the flat sides gets corrosion built up. The nut was too tight, I worked it a few times each way, then snap. Bolt going into case sheared off.... big frown, time for a drink.

I cannot find anywhere yet the actual part I broke to replace even if I can get to it from inside the trans pan fluid area where the valve body sits. I think this rod goes into the valve body area to chose P R N D. A- this is a bad design or scale of material used B - the nut should be a higher quality material less prone to severe corrosion C- the design shouldn't be a thread on nut situation. I saw a porsche version that had the arm slide onto a larger shaft but held in place by a collette sort of thing with it's own fixing bolt against the shaft.

Anyway, can you help me find how to replace this item? I realize it is probably the time then to also do the trans filter "upgrade" which allows replacement without as much trouble http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/ATFCKWFL and possibly the prevention items you mentioned in the thread I linked.

Thanks!! So annoyed I wasn't patient enough to stop and just fiddle w replacing the bushing and not the whole arm.
 

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Hi jwest. Sorry to hear about your predicament. The selector shaft, onto the end of which the selector lever is mounted, extends across the full width of the transmission and emerges out of the other side. As the shaft is over 1ft. long I don’t think that it’s possible to replace it with the transmission in situ.









Phil
 

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Hi jwest. Sorry to hear about your predicament. The selector shaft, onto the end of which the selector lever is mounted, extends across the full width of the transmission and emerges out of the other side. As the shaft is over 1ft. long I don’t think that it’s possible to replace it with the transmission in situ.









Phil
O M G ....... :/ So it does almost look like removing the valve body block would reveal what is seen in your photo. iIs that true? If so that rod looks like it's replaceable from there which would all be accessible with case still in place.
 

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Phil, any chance you could send me via email the full size photos of the case, internals parts, and diagram ? I'm going to show to my dealer shop tech and see if they think the shaft could be done by just removing that flat valve body. The whole thing is open pretty much underneath so it seems possible.
 

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But I suspect you would hit the transmission tunnel as you tried to extract it, so it would be necessary to drop the transmission to provide enough room to get the shaft out…

Phil

P.S. By all means PM me with your email address and I'll send you the photos.
 

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A. you don't appear to have a pm option like other users... odd?
B. are you thinking the rod/shaft, enters or exits via the hole where it comes out to where I broke it? I was thinking the diagram is just showing where it aligns, but installs from inside the case somehow. I sent these photos to the dealer tech.... hopefully some ideas tomorrow.
 

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The shaft can be installed from the left-hand or the right-hand side, but it has to be installed from outside of the casing. It is a very close fit in the holes that are machined into the casing to support it, so it has to be installed in a straight (horizontal) line i.e. can't be installed at an angle.

I documented a teardown of the 6HP26X transmission here, in case it's of some use : http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-range-rover-mark-iii-l322/44034-zf-6hp26-teardown.html

Phil
 
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