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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone done a transmission service. The dealer wants over $1k to do it. I could see why, they want to drop the pan to get to the filter,and I believe the filter is attached to the pan, so you need to replace both+ they charge $9/qt. and you need about 9qts. The drain plug is magnetic, so don't can't be too much crap in there.

An indy RR places wants $280 for a simple flush. Not sure at what point the transmission filter needs to be replaced.
 

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So you're not buying into the 10yr/120,000 mi concept? `)
 

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I wish there was such a thing. Mercedes used to have a LTF in their sealed transmission. It started to give issues, where the local dealer would include a transmission service for free at 45K just to resolve issues. You should see my oil analysis on the so called LTF in the MB done at 45k ....
 

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Frisco.

It's a pain in the back passage from what I've heard with the 6-speed ZF's, that's why the Stealer is suggesting so much but it should be O.K. up to 150,000 miles !

Ze Germans make it so difficult with their "sealed for life" puff-matic units these days. By the way, any news on those 32" mud slugging tyres fitted to your ride ?

Cheerio,


Vinniman
'88 Highline
Perth, W.A.
 

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Frisco, let us know how it goes analysis-wise if you decide to go the $280 route. Also I'm assuming you will buy the ATF at the dealer?

Along with some other maintenance items I am having the tranny fluid changed on my FJ today, but its got 90K and I do some towing (just dirtbikes and stuff). While I'm skeptical of the 10yr/120K thing, I would like to get something similar to 90K out of the RRS (which I don't tow with) before doing this.
 

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vinniman said:
It's a pain in the back passage from what I've heard with the 6-speed ZF's, that's why the Stealer is suggesting so much but it should be O.K. up to 150,000 miles !

Highly NOT recommended to wait to 150K miles...changing the fluid on the transmission is quite simple and can be done by any independent LR shop. The cost is wrapped up in the fluid itself, not the labor...

Draining it, and refilling it is a piece of cake...
 

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PJPR01 said:
vinniman said:
It's a pain in the back passage from what I've heard with the 6-speed ZF's, that's why the Stealer is suggesting so much but it should be O.K. up to 150,000 miles !

Highly NOT recommended to wait to 150K miles...changing the fluid on the transmission is quite simple and can be done by any independent LR shop. The cost is wrapped up in the fluid itself, not the labor...

Draining it, and refilling it is a piece of cake...
How many miles did you go?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Vinniman,

It does look like a pain in the a** to get to the transmission, but not too bad. Took a look at the directions from AlldataDIY. You've got to drop the under-shield, then remove the heat-shield. Two plugs to remove, the drain and filler plug. The transmission filter is attached to the pan, so if you want to replace the filter, i think the pan and filter both needs to be replaced - still need to confirm that... I doubt anyone who really maintains their cars will wait 150k miles to do it. BTW, my Cooper LTZ's are doing really good - it looks much better too.

GooseyLoosey - I will definitely get the analysis done. When I did it on my Mercedes, it was far from being a life time fluid @ 45 K

PJPR01 - So you did a drain and refill only. Do you know at what point the filter needs to be done? Did you also get the fluid from the dealer - the Shell M13754?

Its under $300 to do it, but I think I may enjoy doing it myself. Might have to buy special bottle to do the fill, since it has to be done from under the car. Supposedly the only way to know you are at correct fluid level is when a little oil trickles out of the filler plug location - pretty scientific ...
 

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Frisco_TX_RRS said:
Its under $300 to do it, but I think I may enjoy doing it myself. Might have to buy special bottle to do the fill, since it has to be done from under the car. Supposedly the only way to know you are at correct fluid level is when a little oil trickles out of the filler plug location - pretty scientific ...
That's pretty typically how manual transmissions (and differentials for that matter) are filled. The easiest thing to do is just get a pump, you can find them at any auto store and they're made to screw onto typical fluid bottles. It always ends up being a bit of a mess... but gets the job done nicely.

I'd like to replace the filter too in mine, I'll be interested to hear how that works out once somebody here does it.

-TJ
 

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gooseyloosey said:
PJPR01 said:
vinniman said:
It's a pain in the back passage from what I've heard with the 6-speed ZF's, that's why the Stealer is suggesting so much but it should be O.K. up to 150,000 miles !

Highly NOT recommended to wait to 150K miles...changing the fluid on the transmission is quite simple and can be done by any independent LR shop. The cost is wrapped up in the fluid itself, not the labor...

Draining it, and refilling it is a piece of cake...
How many miles did you go?
I recall doing mine at 75K...it was still quite clear...not murky at all like the front diff (black) and rear diff (brownish, not clear), so I think one can to at least 100K, but preventive maintenance is a good idea.

Frisco - I'll have to check the paperwork to see if we did the filter as well...at any rate, my indy shop did it...hardly any change for labor, I did recall buying the fluid from the dealer, but again, we get discounts as member of HLRC, so wasn't too bad. I think you should not have any trouble doing it, just a lot easier to get the job done while on a lift.
 

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At the dealership I work at we do a BG transmission flush for around 270 dollars. It changes all 16 quarts of fluid. It uses the BG artificial fluid that works better and is cheaper then the Rover transmission fluid. Try BGfindashop.com

http://www.bgfindashop.com/locator/index.php

oh and fuel injection services are recommended as well. The sport/lr3/rr engine have had issues with fuel injectors and 0171,0174 lean issues from fouled injectors. But a simple flush will eliminate that.
 

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The boss said:
At the dealership I work at we do a BG transmission flush for around 270 dollars. It changes all 16 quarts of fluid. It uses the BG artificial fluid that works better and is cheaper then the Rover transmission fluid. Try BGfindashop.com

http://www.bgfindashop.com/locator/index.php

oh and fuel injection services are recommended as well. The sport/lr3/rr engine have had issues with fuel injectors and 0171,0174 lean issues from fouled injectors. But a simple flush will eliminate that.
Your service does not actually change the filter though, correct?

-TJ
 

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The boss said:
At the dealership I work at we do a BG transmission flush for around 270 dollars. It changes all 16 quarts of fluid. It uses the BG artificial fluid that works better and is cheaper then the Rover transmission fluid. Try BGfindashop.com

http://www.bgfindashop.com/locator/index.php

oh and fuel injection services are recommended as well. The sport/lr3/rr engine have had issues with fuel injectors and 0171,0174 lean issues from fouled injectors. But a simple flush will eliminate that.
the boss,
The dealer doesn't have to use the LR fluid? Is this because most guys coming in for a trans fluid change are usually well past warranty?

Also, its 16 qts not 9 qts as previously stated, or is this because you are doing a flush and not just drain+fill?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I re- read the procedure -

A drain and refill is about 3.5 to 4 liters (3.7 qts to 4.25qts).

A dry fill - is about 9.5 liters (10 qts)

I would be hesitant to put anything but the Shell M13754, unless its a full Tranny service, by dropping the oil pan to get all the fluid out and also from the Torque converter, new filter etc. Not sure what mixing 2 different oils would do.

I've attached the procedure for both jobs ...
 

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Frisco_TX_RRS said:
I re- read the procedure -

A drain and refill is about 3.5 to 4 liters (3.7 qts to 4.25qts).

A dry fill - is about 9.5 liters (10 qts)

I would be hesitant to put anything but the Shell M13754, unless its a full Tranny service, by dropping the oil pan to get all the fluid out and also from the Torque converter, new filter etc. Not sure what mixing 2 different oils would do.

I've attached the procedure for both jobs ...
Thanks Frisco,

Yeah, I would be hesitant to save a few $ by not using LR fluid. Its not something you do that often.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The boss said:
oh and fuel injection services are recommended as well. The sport/lr3/rr engine have had issues with fuel injectors and 0171,0174 lean issues from fouled injectors. But a simple flush will eliminate that.
I also use the Chevron w/Techron every 3k miles. Been using it on my other cars for a while. For a cheaper and one time\ yearly clean, you could use any good brand such as Redline SI-2, Regane Complete Fuel System Cleaner, or BG44K. I lean towards Redline and Regane because it has something called polyether amines (PEA) in higher levels that will do the job well.
 

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Umm, my torque converter vibrates on complete stoppage when the transmission is cold. Should i take this as a sign to replace the tranny oil?
I have been doing 50%-60% street driving for about an year.
 

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jakoh said:
Umm, my torque converter vibrates on complete stoppage when the transmission is cold. Should i take this as a sign to replace the tranny oil?
I have been doing 50%-60% street driving for about an year.
With that amount of street driving, I'd rip out the whole transmission and replace it with a Muncie 4 speed with a 8-ball shifter from a '69 Chevelle. Gets rid of the torque converter completely.
 

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guys listen, you don't have to replace the filter. the wonderful thing about the transmission flush is that it changes all the fluid. not a quarter of it. plus it changes it while its operating so its not losing anything upon startup. trust me it works. We have been doing them in all of our models. Hell when I worked for ford we did them in our vehicles and it would save more transmissions then you know. Trust me, if given the chance I wouldn't waste my time doing it your way. Its an hour of your time and it works. I did it in all my vehicles and everyone at the shop has done theirs as well.

oh and the 44k is apart of the kit we use for the fuel service.
 

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gooseyloosey said:
jakoh said:
Umm, my torque converter vibrates on complete stoppage when the transmission is cold. Should i take this as a sign to replace the tranny oil?
I have been doing 50%-60% street driving for about an year.
With that amount of street driving, I'd rip out the whole transmission and replace it with a Muncie 4 speed with a 8-ball shifter from a '69 Chevelle. Gets rid of the torque converter completely.
amusing...but i got the transfer gearbox oil changed and the car runs smoothly now with 73k miles. Gear changes are a lot less abrupt.
Is the transfer gearbox locking mechanism oil viscosity friction based?
 
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