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2006 Range Rover Supercharged
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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I have searched but did not find another topic with the same exact issues but if one of you long time members knows of one I would love to read it.
My 06 supercharged died coming of the freeway so instead of pulling over stopping putting it in park restarting, I simply put it in neutral restarted and then put it back into drive but apon doing this traffic had stopped so I did as well then when the light turned green and I went to leave nothing and I mean nothing. Rev's up but no movement what so ever. I try reverse again nothing so at this point im thinking roll it down the hill and on to a side street for safety. So i take my foot of the brake and while still in drive I push the Rover and it rolled back down the hill in drive. While rolling down hill once or twice I hear a slight grinding noise enough to where I through it in neutral the rest of the way. Had it towed to local Indi shop that specializes in euro cars. They said it has 27 codes. Long story short the tyranny fluid was low so they wanted 1200$ to perform a filter and fluid change. So I had it towed to my house where I removed pan and fluid. No metal whatsoever, ugly black smelly fluid bit not a sliver or spec of metal. I'm broke so I clean the pan and filter and reinstall with two quarts of royal purple and the rest of the old fluid top the fluid off and it still does the same exact thing no change. So it may have been low on fluid but that is not why it wont engage. HELP, I'm very mechanically inclined but automatic transmissions are my weakest subject matter with only a small amount of solenoid, and fluid and filter replacement, no rebuilds are major repairs. So I'm at a loss for where and what to look for. The only thing I can thing of is the torque converter clutch but I dont know how this tranny is set up. So any and all advise would be most appreciated, and thank you in advance for your time.

HighVoltage
 

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Automotive torque converters were around for decades before the lock-up clutch was introduced (to save fuel) and work perfectly well without one, so it’s not likely to be that.

Will the park lock hold your vehicle on a slope (with the handbrake off), or does it roll? You need to rule out a failure of the driveline downstream of the transmission e.g. fretting corrosion of the transmission output shaft splines, or a driveshaft popping out.

Phil
 

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2006 Range Rover Supercharged
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Discussion Starter #3
Automotive torque converters were around for decades before the lock-up clutch was introduced (to save fuel) and work perfectly well without one, so it’s not likely to be that.

Will the park lock hold your vehicle on a slope (with the handbrake off), or does it roll? You need to rule out a failure of the driveline downstream of the transmission e.g. fretting corrosion of the transmission output shaft splines, or a driveshaft popping out.

Phil
I will have to test to make sure but I'm 85% that it will hold in park. And I can say I dont think it possible for the splines to be broken but I will test to make sure. Thank you for your time I do appreciate it. I'll post when I'm done with park test.
 

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2006 Range Rover Supercharged
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Discussion Starter #4
I will have to test to make sure but I'm 85% that it will hold in park. And I can say I dont think it possible for the splines to be broken but I will test to make sure. Thank you for your time I do appreciate it. I'll post when I'm done with park test.
RRPhil yes park will hold vehicle from rolling with hand brake off.
 

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I can’t recall anyone with the ZF 6HP26 transmission describing your exact symptoms before. Does the gear position indicated on the instrument panel correctly match the position of the shift lever?

Phil
 

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2006 Range Rover Supercharged
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Discussion Starter #6
Yes and the linkage moves the selector as well. It's got me stumped how is it neutral and park with but R, D. 3. 2. 1 do not do anything. There is one other thing I think I may have not included in my description of what happened. It did through a code unfortunately the shop i took it to didn't save them they erased and said they need to see which codes come back. But I remember it said something about "lost communication with immbalizer". And I just associated that with the stall that occurred because of a loose battery terminal. I wish I could remember the code I know it was like a p06** or p16**. but I'm not sure.
 

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2006 Range Rover Supercharged
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Discussion Starter #7
Oh ya one other thing is the rpm's drop like it would normally when shifted from p to R and D but no initiation.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Automotive torque converters were around for decades before the lock-up clutch was introduced (to save fuel) and work perfectly well without one, so it’s not likely to be that.

Will the park lock hold your vehicle on a slope (with the handbrake off), or does it roll? You need to rule out a failure of the driveline downstream of the transmission e.g. fretting corrosion of the transmission output shaft splines, or a driveshaft popping out.

Phil
While true, we did have TC's w/o clutches for decades, the electronic controlled ZF 6HP will not operate if TC clutch and/or drum has failed.
 

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Oh ya one other thing is the rpm's drop like it would normally when shifted from p to R and D but no initiation.
Have you checked the half shafts? If you're getting grinding noise in gear, I'm betting 1 of your half shaft splines has failed. If you put transfer case into lo, then transmission into gear, does the vehicle move while making same grinding noise?
 

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2006 Range Rover Supercharged
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Discussion Starter #10
There was only a very small amount of grinding noise if any it was si slight I couldn't be sure but I took it out of drive into neutral just to be safe when I was rolling back down a slight inclin to a side street since then it has not made any grinding noise and I tryed the low gears with the same results, nothing no movement or engagement of any kind.
 

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Even in the event of a complete electrical failure the transmission would still select Reverse hydraulically (and either 3rd or 5th gear in D) using the transmission manual valve to ‘get you home’ in failsafe mode. The fact that there is no movement at all, and that you’ve ruled out an issue downstream of the transmission because the park lock still holds, means either there’s no hydraulic pressure being generated, or you have a mechanical failure (e.g. snapped shaft) in the transmission running gear.

Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Even in the event of a complete electrical failure the transmission would still select Reverse hydraulically (and either 3rd or 5th gear in D) using the transmission manual valve to ‘get you home’ in failsafe mode. The fact that there is no movement at all, and that you’ve ruled out an issue downstream of the transmission because the park lock still holds, means either there’s no hydraulic pressure being generated, or you have a mechanical failure (e.g. snapped shaft) in the transmission running gear.

Phil
Would there be any metal debris in the pan if it where a snapped shaft, and what would cause no pressure, or for the pressure not to build in tranz. A blockage or electrical failure, sensor, etc.?
 

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With the hydraulics, I guess the causes could be very low fluid level (allowing the pump to suck air) or maybe a failed bridge seal for the Mechatronic unit? Both seem unlikely.





I can’t think of any electrical, electronic or sensor faults, that could cause a massive reduction in hydraulic pressure. The transmission fails safe to maximum system pressure in the event of an electrical/electronic failure, and there are no pressure sensors in the transmission. Pressure is inferred from solenoid current.

With a mechanical failure, if it were a clutch drum that had failed you would expect to see metallic debris on the sump magnets. If it were, say, the turbine shaft then that could be a clean break without generating any debris.



Do you have diagnostic kit that is capable of reading the turbine (i.e. transmission input) speed, just to rule that one out?

Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I dont believe so I have a 200-300 dollar harbor freight scan took just does basics and some abs but I dont believe it supports trans but I can check. If not any suggestions and what kind of shop I would want to take it to to have them run a diagnostic.?
 

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If it really was an immediate & sudden failure seems to be a useful indicator to me, which sounds like the failure that I had a year ago. But RRPhil already looked towards that path, and if the parking pawl is holding, not the same problem I had.
A new mystery.
However if it was gradual, that would suggest something like leaking seals(s) or decreasing fluid level, I would think, but RRPhil would of course have a better knowledge of that causing a "sudden" failure.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
If it really was an immediate & sudden failure seems to be a useful indicator to me, which sounds like the failure that I had a year ago. But RRPhil already looked towards that path, and if the parking pawl is holding, not the same problem I had.
A new mystery.
However if it was gradual, that would suggest something like leaking seals(s) or decreasing fluid level, I would think, but RRPhil would of course have a better knowledge of that causing a "sudden" failure.
There was low fluid level and two days before the catastrophic I was under heavy accel getting on the freeway and it bucked I let off and a warning on the dash said that gear not available at this time it went away and never happened again. I dropped the pan to see if there was any metal then put pan back on and refilled in drive till it came out the full hole.
 

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Well if it began having problems before the complete disengage, then you took it to a "european specialist" mechanic, then you filled it with Royal Purple (which I like for many things, but I wouldn't use it for this application before much research, or at least asking RRPhil), I would only look to RRPhil for advice - I wouldn't know what to add. When you added the Royal Purple, you ran it through the gears, made sure the trans temp was in range, and it was in neutral?
Is Royal Purple good in these, and being mixed with the existing fluid?

Mine is full of Amsoil, but that's after a complete rebuild so there's noting in it except the Amsoil, and it's compatible, and has been performing great with many miles so far.
 

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2006 Range Rover Supercharged
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Discussion Starter #18
Well if it began having problems before the complete disengage, then you took it to a "european specialist" mechanic, then you filled it with Royal Purple (which I like for many things, but I wouldn't use it for this application before much research, or at least asking RRPhil), I would only look to RRPhil for advice - I wouldn't know what to add. When you added the Royal Purple, you ran it through the gears, made sure the trans temp was in range, and it was in neutral?
Is Royal Purple good in these, and being mixed with the existing fluid?

Mine is full of Amsoil, but that's after a complete rebuild so there's noting in it except the Amsoil, and it's compatible, and has been performing great with many miles so far.
I was just trying to see if it would work ar all with proper fluid levels and didnt eant to through utter crap in it but at the same time didn't feel like spending 50 buck a quart either so I went with the eoysk purple which meet or exceeds
 
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