[fernando10]

I have tried searching this on this forum and numerous others to no avail.

90% of the time when I come to a stop in my RR, there is a 'kick', if you will, from the transmission. I got a transmission flush to rule that out an it didn't help. I have only had the RR for about a month so I am not sure if the cold weather has anything to do with it? All other trans. functions work like they should as I can tell it is shifting gears. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.

Please excuse any typos, message sent from my iPhone

 

[Euro Larry]

What makes you think its the transmission? And can you describe the kick? Does it always happen? or only during sudden stops?

 

[fernando10]

Good point. I assumed it was because when a vehicle descends it downshifts (I think) and it seems like right at the last gear, it 'kicks' right before stopping. This happens with your average normal stops but I have however, had to stop adruptly and it didn't happen. The 'kick' is kind of like a jerk, if you will. When braking right before completely stopping, all is smooth and then it does it before completely stopping. Doesn't seem extremely huge but definitely enough to notice and have others in the vehicle question it.

 

[LEBoyd]

I know the 06 is the Jaguar and mne is the BMW (04), but mine does exactly the same thing you describe (I've had mine about 6 weeks). I suspected a flush might help, but it didn't for yours so I'll probably not do the flush.

 

[Euro Larry]

You should have the vehicle checked by a mechanic who is familiar with these vehicles. Sometimes damaged arms or mounts can create this jerk when you stop. It happens when the brakes stop the vehicle however the body continues moving, creating a second "jerk"...

 

[Flash G]

There are several threads about this problem. I'll search and see if I can find them for you.

This is a known issue. I have two Rovers... A fullsize Supercharged and a Sport. They BOTH do this on decel if you accelerate before a full stop. I have had the tranny ecu update on both Rovers and it works for a short while before the problem reoccurs.

Sometimes the "thud" has been so hard, it feels like the tranny is going to drop off the car.

(Most recent thread: http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/9-...ot-changing-smooth-1st-2nd-gear-15-25m-h.html )

 

[klf400]

my 2004 does this somtimes its known as the tranny slam search the bmw forums

 

[RRPhil]

We need to be careful not to get our 5HP24s and 6HP26s mixed up here. The 2-1 rollout ‘tranny slam’ shift is a common feature of the 6HP26 and because BMW were fitting this transmission three years before it became available in the L322 those guys have a lot more experience of it. Software updates & fluid changes appear to be the only treatment, though not necessarily always a cure - some people’s experience being better than others.

To be fair to ZF, this is pretty much the only problem which the 6HP26 suffers from.

Phil

 

[klf400]

We need to be careful not to get our 5HP24s and 6HP26s mixed up here. The 2-1 rollout ‘tranny slam’ shift is a common feature of the 6HP26 and because BMW were fitting this transmission three years before it became available in the L322 those guys have a lot more experience of it. Software updates & fluid changes appear to be the only treatment, though not necessarily always a cure - some people’s experience being better than others.

To be fair to ZF, this is pretty much the only problem which the 6HP26 suffers from.

Phil

hi phil
which zf box should be in my 2004 4.4 v8 then the 5hp24 or the 6hp26 ? if i switch to manual mode i can only see 1-5 on the gear display. i have changed the fluid and filter but still need to change the fluid a few more times to dilute the fluid more, as we all know you cant get it all out by draining , the 4 magnets had some magnetic sludge but no lumps or swarf . is there anything else that can be done to ease this glitch
gearchanges are silky smooth apart from this occasional kick/slam

 

[RRPhil]

klf400,

Yours is the 5-speed ZF 5HP24 transmission which was fitted to all ’02-‘05MY petrol models.

The ZF 6HP26 was introduced from 2006MY at the same time that the BMW M62 engine was replaced with the Jaguar petrol engines (4.4l n/a and 4.2l s/c) and the NV225 transfer box was replaced with the Magna Steyr DD295 unit. Land Rover fitted the same transmission/transfer box combination in the Discovery and Range Rover Sport too.

The diesel had to wait a further year until 2007MY (when the 3.0l BMW TD6 engine was replaced by the 3.6l TDV8 unit) before the 5-speed GM 5L40-E was replaced by the ZF 6HP26 transmission.

Your 5HP24 does not have a reputation for poor/jerky rollout shifts so if it consistently does this you clearly have a problem....

Did you use a genuine Filtran filter and Mobil ATF LT71141 fluid?

Phil

 

[klf400]

Your 5HP24 does not have a reputation for poor/jerky rollout shifts so if it consistently does this you clearly have a problem....

Did you use a genuine Filtran filter and Mobil ATF LT71141 fluid?

yes i did the filter was genuine land rover and yes it was the above fluid its a yellow colour
i only ever get the slam/kick when approaching our drive but this would be no more than 2 out of 10 times

 

[RRPhil]

Interesting that both yourself & LEBoyd are having the same 2-1 rollout shift issues on your 5HP24s.

Maybe this is going to turn out to be a more and more common issue with this transmission?

Although it may be a mechanical fault, a relatively quick, cheap and easy starting point would be with the valve block.

klf400, are you handy with a set of spanners at all? I'd be very interested in stripping, checking & rebuilding your valve block (FOC, of course - well, except for the shipping cost (£20 each way?) and £5 for the gasket) in the search for clues if you were able to remove it and send it to me - and could manage without your car for a few days?

Phil

 

[LEBoyd]

klf400, are you handy with a set of spanners at all? I'd be very interested in stripping, checking & rebuilding your valve block (FOC, of course - well, except for the shipping cost (£20 each way?) and £5 for the gasket) in the search for clues if you were able to remove it and send it to me - and could manage without your car for a few days?

Phil

Would you do mine? LOL

 

[RRPhil]

Sorry LEBoyd, that wasn’t favouritism – just purely geographical !

Phil

 

[klf400]

klf400, are you handy with a set of spanners at all? I'd be very interested in stripping, checking & rebuilding your valve block (FOC, of course - well, except for the shipping cost (£20 each way?) and £5 for the gasket) in the search for clues if you were able to remove it and send it to me - and could manage without your car for a few days?

handy with spanners yes i do all my own repairs etc i also have a 4 post lift in our barn and yes i could do without my car as we have 2 others
where abouts is the valve block located is it above the solenoids and filter ? is it easy enough to remove ? and do you think this may get worse ?
and thank you for your kind offer

 

[fernando10]

So The general consensus for the 06 and up is that it is common and we may be able to minimize it up updates?

Thanks for the link Flash G

 

[RRPhil]

So The general consensus for the 06 and up is that it is common and we may be able to minimize it up updates

Yep, and some people report that a fluid change can also help.

You don't experience anything like this in your 750i? (same transmisssion, of course)

Phil

 

[RRPhil]

handy with spanners yes i do all my own repairs etc i also have a 4 post lift in our barn and yes i could do without my car as we have 2 others
where abouts is the valve block located is it above the solenoids and filter ? is it easy enough to remove ? and do you think this may get worse ?

Because I don’t know what’s causing it I really have no idea whether it will get worse – but I do know it shouldn’t be doing it! A 2-1 rollout shift in the 5HP24 only involves releasing the E-clutch and then the F-brake sprag should automatically lock to engage 1[SUP]st[/SUP] gear so you shouldn’t feel a thing. It’s not like the ECU has to time the engagement of an on-coming clutch because the sprag (which acts like a mechanical diode) just engages automatically when the relative speeds are right.

I should just emphasise again that I have no idea whether it’s a valve block issue or not, it’s just an easy & cost-effective starting point.

Valve block removal is fully covered in the RAVE manual and I’ve also made some notes on it here :
http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-range-rover-l322-mark-iii/24417-02-05-v8-l322-gearbox-failure-nw-england-2.html#post247261

You can re-use your (newish) fluid and filter although I suppose you should really replace the sump pan gasket (TYF000110 = £15 from LR dealer). The only ‘non-standard’ tool you need is a Torx T27 drive bit, but you must already have one of these if you've replaced your filter.

Anyway, let me know if you fancy giving it a go and I’ll PM you my address.

If anyone else is experiencing this problem in a pre-06 petrol L322 (i.e. the one with the BMW engine) please post on here - it would be interesting to see how widespread it is.

Phil

 

[fernando10]

Phil, I don't feel in my 750. I actually have to train myself to drive the RR differently than the BMW as the BMW doesn't have the kick effect. Well, I already did the fluid change so I guessing am good. I think I am good now knowing this is what I should expect versus not knowing. Thanks

 

[LEBoyd]

Just an update. I went through the autobox reset (see http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-range-rover-l322-mark-iii/19024-adaptive-autobox.html) and it *seems* to have to fixed this. I say "seems" because I didn't drive it very far and I also realize things like this can be "mental".

I'll drive it a few days and see if I notice it any more.