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Discussion Starter #1
I’m wondering if this could be a simple fix. I have 108,000 miles. Shop is telling me I need a $6,000 rebuild. Seems crazy if you ask me!
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Change the oil and wait. Maybe you are a lucky guy.
I have a little 3-4 problem too. I think pressure is decreasing
I can feel 1-2-3 but 4-5-6 is good and downward also ok except 2-1.
It can be a dying torque converter because it is fully locking on 3th to 4th gear, i think.

Wait for Phill. He is a genius on this parts and has to much experiences.

My friend had this issue and he rebuild valve body with a sonnax zipkit. He is very happy for 3 years. His transmission works like variator.

I will do this next year with an oil filter change moment.

286991

this one. Complete repair kit
And separator plate is also a must you can see the part number
286992



This one is 100k miles on it
286993


You can see what is gone. Old seperator and new one
286994


286995


And some little parts also must replaced
I dont know the part number

286996


You can see the damage on glasses 👓
286997


Some other parts
286998


286999


Thank you to my friend from St. Petersburg.
the best move is first changing the oil than buying this parts and filter and doing rebuild and replacind the oil again
 

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The L322 used five different transmissions during its 10 year production run. Which year and model do you have?



Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The L322 used five different transmissions during its 10 year production run. Which year and model do you have?



Phil


I did change the oil seems like it might have help a little bit still getting and error message from time to time. I have a 2008 Range Rover supercharge.
287018
 

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You have the ZF 6HP26 transmission. By far the most common issue with this transmission is faulty solenoids and, in all likelihood, that’s all that’s wrong with your transmission. There are two ways to check this:

  • Access some diagnostic kit which can read the adaption pressure and time settings for your existing solenoids to see if any are set at their extreme values (indicating the ones which are faulty)
  • Just risk it and replace all the solenoids to see if it fixes the issue


A set of new solenoids costs around US$260.

Ideally, the adaptions should be reset to nominal after the solenoids have been replaced.

Not strictly necessary, but faulty solenoids often result in their dampers becoming hammered to the point where the rubber springs are flattened and no longer work (each of the six PMW solenoids has its own damper)



so it may be worth stripping the mechatronic unit and replacing the dampers, or maybe even fit a Sonnax Zip kit as mylife1903 has suggested.



As mylife1903 has already stated, it’s important to replace the four rubber jump tubes





and the bridge seal



when replacing the mechatronic unit. If your connector sleeve is still the old red seal version, it’s also a good opportunity to update it to the later version with the black seals, to reduce the likelihood of leaks.





In the USA, genuine parts for ZF transmissions are available from Eriksson Industries (https://zftranspart.mypinnaclecart.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=1&pg=1) and The California Transmission Supply Company (6HP26/28/32: Genuine ZF Parts)

Having said all that, your latest error message "Transmission Fault Traction Reduced" is a transfer box issue rather than a transmission one.

Phil
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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615 Posts
You have the ZF 6HP26 transmission. By far the most common issue with this transmission is faulty solenoids and, in all likelihood, that’s all that’s wrong with your transmission. There are two ways to check this:

  • Access some diagnostic kit which can read the adaption pressure and time settings for your existing solenoids to see if any are set at their extreme values (indicating the ones which are faulty)
  • Just risk it and replace all the solenoids to see if it fixes the issue


A set of new solenoids costs around US$260.

Ideally, the adaptions should be reset to nominal after the solenoids have been replaced.

Not strictly necessary, but faulty solenoids often result in their dampers becoming hammered to the point where the rubber springs are flattened and no longer work (each of the six PMW solenoids has its own damper)



so it may be worth stripping the mechatronic unit and replacing the dampers, or maybe even fit a Sonnax Zip kit as mylife1903 has suggested.



As mylife1903 has already stated, it’s important to replace the four rubber jump tubes





and the bridge seal



when replacing the mechatronic unit. If your connector sleeve is still the old red seal version, it’s also a good opportunity to update it to the later version with the black seals, to reduce the likelihood of leaks.





In the USA, genuine parts for ZF transmissions are available from Eriksson Industries (https://zftranspart.mypinnaclecart.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=1&pg=1) and The California Transmission Supply Company (6HP26/28/32: Genuine ZF Parts)

Having said all that, your latest error message "Transmission Fault Traction Reduced" is a transfer box issue rather than a transmission one.

Phil
Phil can you tell me please the part numbers for this seals. Jump tubes, bridge seal and connector sleeve
 

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You’ll find lots of places on eBay, etc. selling a complete kit comprising the 4 jump tubes, the bridge seal & the mechatronic sleeve but it’s important to ensure that they’re all genuine ZF parts.

These are the ZF part numbers, together with Land Rover’s corresponding part number:

Jump tube = 0734 317 370/TZT500010 (short x 2), 0734 317 371/TZT500020 (medium), 0734 317 372/TZT500030 (long)
Mechatronic sleeve = 0501 216 272/TZV500010
Bridge seal = 0501 219 952 (was 0501 215 718)/TGW500010
(Note – If you’re buying the bridge seal from ZF, make sure that you don’t get the slightly thicker ZF 6HP19/21 seal by mistake)







Phil
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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You’ll find lots of places on eBay, etc. selling a complete kit comprising the 4 jump tubes, the bridge seal & the mechatronic sleeve but it’s important to ensure that they’re all genuine ZF parts.

These are the ZF part numbers, together with Land Rover’s corresponding part number:

Jump tube = 0734 317 370/TZT500010 (short x 2), 0734 317 371/TZT500020 (medium), 0734 317 372/TZT500030 (long)
Mechatronic sleeve = 0501 216 272/TZV500010
Bridge seal = 0501 219 952 (was 0501 215 718)/TGW500010
(Note – If you’re buying the bridge seal from ZF, make sure that you don’t get the slightly thicker ZF 6HP19/21 seal by mistake)







Phil
Great. Thank you Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You have the ZF 6HP26 transmission. By far the most common issue with this transmission is faulty solenoids and, in all likelihood, that’s all that’s wrong with your transmission. There are two ways to check this:

  • Access some diagnostic kit which can read the adaption pressure and time settings for your existing solenoids to see if any are set at their extreme values (indicating the ones which are faulty)
  • Just risk it and replace all the solenoids to see if it fixes the issue


A set of new solenoids costs around US$260.

Ideally, the adaptions should be reset to nominal after the solenoids have been replaced.

Not strictly necessary, but faulty solenoids often result in their dampers becoming hammered to the point where the rubber springs are flattened and no longer work (each of the six PMW solenoids has its own damper)



so it may be worth stripping the mechatronic unit and replacing the dampers, or maybe even fit a Sonnax Zip kit as mylife1903 has suggested.



As mylife1903 has already stated, it’s important to replace the four rubber jump tubes





and the bridge seal



when replacing the mechatronic unit. If your connector sleeve is still the old red seal version, it’s also a good opportunity to update it to the later version with the black seals, to reduce the likelihood of leaks.





In the USA, genuine parts for ZF transmissions are available from Eriksson Industries (https://zftranspart.mypinnaclecart.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=1&pg=1) and The California Transmission Supply Company (6HP26/28/32: Genuine ZF Parts)

Having said all that, your latest error message "Transmission Fault Traction Reduced" is a transfer box issue rather than a transmission one.

Phil
I would say I’m a weekend socket and screwdriver guy, but this all looks very unfamiliar unless there is detailed step by step instructions. Would you recommend anyone that know how to do all this? I would think a tranny shop would just rebuild everything, not wanting to do a couple things in fear of it not working. I’m in SoCal...
 

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I would say I’m a weekend socket and screwdriver guy, but this all looks very unfamiliar unless there is detailed step by step instructions. Would you recommend anyone that know how to do all this? I would think a tranny shop would just rebuild everything, not wanting to do a couple things in fear of it not working. I’m in SoCal...
Sonnax zip kit comes with instruction.
User manual is very understandable and made for regular people.
Search for videos on youtube. This zf transmission is very popular
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sonnax zip kit comes with instruction.
User manual is very understandable and made for regular people.
Search for videos on youtube. This zf transmission is very popular
ok thank you!

So, the Transmission Fault Traction Reduced code on the dash. What’s that coming from? It will randomly come on and some other times it won’t. Doesn’t seem to be driving any different, or nothing happens right before it pop up.
 

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It means that the centre differential (clutch) in your transfer box isn’t operating. That’s either because there’s a fault with the clutch itself or (more likely?) the transfer box ECU isn’t communicating to the CAN bus and, in that situation, the centre differential defaults to its open position. It might be worth getting the codes read to see if it can be narrowed down further.





Phil
 

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@RRPhil what about a low milage transmission.
Today my friend has a problem with a Q7. Audi has also a zf transmission but an earlier model 6hp19. He put in a second hand transmission and had problems he said tranny goes in limp mode.
Is it better rebuild our tranny with a sonnax kit or putting in a low milage tranny, what you are thinking?

And second question is fluid. I found titan transmission oil for zf transmission is it safe to use that fluid?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
It means that the centre differential (clutch) in your transfer box isn’t operating. That’s either because there’s a fault with the clutch itself or (more likely?) the transfer box ECU isn’t communicating to the CAN bus and, in that situation, the centre differential defaults to its open position. It might be worth getting the codes read to see if it can be narrowed down further.





Phil
Ok so if it’s the ECU in the transfer box, how is that repaired? New ECU? Or like a sensor? Does the connection need to be cleaned?
 

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It means that the centre differential (clutch) in your transfer box isn’t operating. That’s either because there’s a fault with the clutch itself or (more likely?) the transfer box ECU isn’t communicating to the CAN bus and, in that situation, the centre differential defaults to its open position. It might be worth getting the codes read to see if it can be narrowed down further.





Phil

Hi RRPhil,

I've been looking for the instructions on how to reset the ECU to see if that helps with transmission issues, but am having trouble locating them. I thought I bookmarked it after having seen it posted here before (thought it was from you, but I may be wrong), but am not seeing it around. Do you have any thoughts/info on that?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It means that the centre differential (clutch) in your transfer box isn’t operating. That’s either because there’s a fault with the clutch itself or (more likely?) the transfer box ECU isn’t communicating to the CAN bus and, in that situation, the centre differential defaults to its open position. It might be worth getting the codes read to see if it can be narrowed down further.





Phil
I have a new dash message?? Seems like while driving it’s stuck in 3rd gear?

287388
 

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I have a new dash message?? Seems like while driving it’s stuck in 3rd gear?
Out of curiosity and for more information in general, have you done anything that has been talked about already? Is that message after you've worked on it or just something different now? Sounds like I'm having some of the same issues. What is being talked about here may fix it, so am happy to have come across this thread. Thanks for starting it, fwiw. ;p
 
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