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Discussion Starter #1
I would greatly appreciate if anyone can help me with an issue I am having with my 2011 Range Rover Sport Suppercharged. Here is a little maintenance history of RRS I purcharged at 53k Miles and is not at 73K Miles.

Maintenance History
  • Replaced - All 4 Brake Pads, Rotors & Brake wear Sensors (OE) - at 68k Miles
  • Replaced - Front Lower Control Arms - Left & Right (OEM) - at 72k Miles
  • Replaced - Ignition Coil & Spark Plugs (OE) - at 72k Miles
  • Replaced - Rear Height Sensor & Bent Rim (OE) - at 72k Miles
  • Performed - Transmission Pan Service that included replacing the Pan & Filter(ZF Trans Pan & Filter Kit), ZF Trans Fluid Flush & Mechatronic Sealing Sleeve (Did not replace the "Mechatronic Seal Adapter") - at 72k Miles
  • Performed - Brake Flush
  • Performed - Steering Flush
  • Performed - Front & Rear Differential Flush & Transfer Case Flush
  • Performed - 4 Wheel Alignment
  • Performed - Oil & Filter Change every 5k Miles
DID NOT PERFORM - ECU Reset & TCM Reset

Probles/Issue
When I come to a complete stop at a light or stop sign, the truck tries to fight it & wants to move forward. I thought it was happening because I did not flush the brakes after installing new ones, but even after performing brake flush, it still does the same. Then my Mechanic test drove it & felt the same and thought it might be due to bad control arms as the alignment was way out (ride quality improved). It usually happen when I drive it after a few hours of it being parked and after I have driven it for a good number of miles the issues goes away.. Interestingly, sometimes, it does the complete opposite - won't try to fight the brake and stops normally but will forget to take off after releasing the brake when the signal turns green and needs to be reminded by hitting on Gas pedal. This happens early morning as well when I shift the gear lever to Drive - wants a kick to get going.

Has anyone experienced any of this ? If yes, how did you resolve the issue.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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520 Posts
If the truck is lunging while stopped, the brake is compressed and the accelerator is not compressed I would diagnose it as a Torque converter issue. Put it in neutral and if it stops trying to move you have found your problem.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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326 Posts
Where are your rpms? Are they dead-on idle or higher? Is your AC on?
If throttle is sluggish sticky at last couple od degrees due to carbon deposits it may create the feeling that truck is trying to run away. Also, if perhaps AC compressor is to stiff to turn, ECU may try to compencate/prohibit stalling by adding a little more rpms, given amount of power under the hood, 50-100 rpms increace will create then trying to runaway feel.
If it still does it with AC off, perhaps cleaning /inspection for smooth operation of throttle body is due.
My 2013 RRS SC tend to to this in stop-and-go traffic with AC on but after engine replacement it was not so noticable, perhaps mechanic was kind enough to clean throttle body.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Where are your rpms? Are they dead-on idle or higher? Is your AC on?
If throttle is sluggish sticky at last couple od degrees due to carbon deposits it may create the feeling that truck is trying to run away. Also, if perhaps AC compressor is to stiff to turn, ECU may try to compencate/prohibit stalling by adding a little more rpms, given amount of power under the hood, 50-100 rpms increace will create then trying to runaway feel.
If it still does it with AC off, perhaps cleaning /inspection for smooth operation of throttle body is due.
My 2013 RRS SC tend to to this in stop-and-go traffic with AC on but after engine replacement it was not so noticable, perhaps mechanic was kind enough to clean throttle body.
Thanks Roman for the insight.. After "raydunne" commented that it might be a torque converter issue, I took my car to the mechanic.. He inspected & and saw that the RPM's were not dropping to 700 when coming a to complete stop, there was a 2 second delay.. Would just stay at 900 RPM's on coming to complete stop & after lunging it would drop down 700ish.. So he reset the throttle body setting using his scanner.. Also did the TCM reset and now I will be driving on sports mode.

Interestingly, 6 months ago, I tried to act smart & poured some random additive in the gas stank that would increase the effeciency and would clean the injectors but after a day it clogged the throttle body.. When the throttle body issues occured, I had to bring the car to neutral when coming to a complete stop and instantly the RMPs would shoot up and then drop.. Paid a $1100 to get that cleaned.. But now when coming to complete stop, RMP don't shoot up as I manually shift to neutral.. This lunging issue has been there before the throttle body issues came up.. I will see if turning off the AC helps in anyway..
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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820 Posts
Weird problem. Since these are drive by wire engines it sounds to me that something is telling the ECU to give it more fuel. Could it be the throttle pedal sensor or some kind of transmission sensor that is telling the engine needs to speed up? Just tossing out guesses.
 
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