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LEGACY VENDOR
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The last contribution to this thread was made over six years ago. We now know that the most common issue with the 5HP24 transmission is the failure of the B-clutch hub to C-clutch drum axial bearing which allows the B-clutch drum to move relative to the input shaft causing the A-clutch O-ring to split & leak, particularly when hot.





If your transmission shifts gears fine when the fluid is cold, goes into failsafe mode (5[SUP]th[/SUP] gear) with a bang when the fluid gets hot, and then operates fine again once the fluid has cooled down then this is the most likely reason.

Phil
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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I agree 100% with Phil. I just went through the exact same thing with my 03. Mine had the bad axial bearing and the split o-ring. Thanks to Phil, I fixed it, and it's running great now.
 

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Thanks Phill, I searched through all the threads I could find related to this issue, and couldn't pinpoint any 'eureka, this is definitely it!" posts. I appreciate the insight, and the photos.

So the tranny basically needs to be stripped down completely to replace the axial bearing, and the a-clutch O-ring, did you also recommend replacing the input shaft?

I just want to make sure I do everything reccomended, as I don't want to deal with this again any sooner than I have to.

Thanks again.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
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It shouldn’t be necessary to replace the input shaft. Early 5HP24 transmissions used in BMWs and Jaguars had problems with pressure spikes which overloaded the A-clutch (the drum for which is welded onto the input shaft) causing the groove, where the retaining ring for the clutch pack sits, to shear apart.



ZF subsequently modified the hydraulic system - including a redesigned main pressure valve where this spool land width was increased from 9mm to 10mm :



and also stiffened up the clutch drum with these swages :


to correct the issue.

All L322 versions of the 5HP24 were fitted with these later modifications so failure of the clutch drum is practically unheard of with our transmissions (I think I’ve only seen a couple of examples).

Depending upon how much driving you’ve done with your transmission in this state, you may need a new set of clutch plates for the A-clutch.

Phil
 

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Hello guys, I'm writing from Mitanix, a Land Rover shop located in Tampa.

80% of the time when you have this transmission problem, it is related to the transmission electric thermostat. The transmission electric thermostat is faulty. It's pretty cheap and worth trying to replace this before going ahead and trying to repair the transmission. A transmission overhaul is like 5000$.

Good luck
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
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There’s no such thing as a ‘transmission electric thermostat’ in the 5HP24. The engine cooling system has an electrically heated thermostat and the transmission cooling system has a thermostatic valve that only allows engine coolant through the oil cooler once the transmission fluid temperature has reached 80°C. However I think the poster may have been referring to the fluid temperature sensor which is part of the transmission’s wiring harness (as discussed in post #9 of this thread).





Phil
 

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Phil, thanks: did you by chance see my thread on the issues with the P0705 error message and fail safe? If you could advise, it'd be great: the error message pops up only when starting the car, and disappears if I re-start. Aside from that, transmission works very well. Thanks!
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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hi sorry if this was the incorrect way to place my problems but I wouldn't see how to start a new page for my issue ....
rrphil helped me via messages to rebuilt by my gearbox a couple of years ago. and all been fine till now
I now have a problem im trying to diagnose.was well chuffed .
when driving all is fine but after about 10 mins I got a transfailsafe on the dash and the car (range rover l322 52 plate) stays in the gear it was in . not able to select sport or change gear manually when playin up . when I stopped it slips quite a but in the same gear to get to speed again .
I got to my destination and turned the car off for 30 mins . then when starting up to drive home (40 miles) it was fine never played up once. when I got to my destination and turned the car off for 10 mins I started off again and the same thing happened with the car holding gears. this again cleared when ignition what turned off. when I got home and checked the gearbox diagnosis on my scanner I got (mechanical torque converter monitor fault . dtc status) will this be a new torque converter required. gear box temp was 117deg. doesnt go much above that temp.
sorry for the private message but I couldn't find a link to attach my problem.
regards
andy
 

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Well, let me ask you this Phil. I have rebuilt no less that 50 Toyota engines and I have repaired 3 manual transmissions. It's not something I really want to do is it? I found a shop in LA that said they would do everything for $1,800 parts & labor. What do you think? Have you replaced the snap ring? He said they do it often there.

Thanks again,
Joe
Joe, how did you end up fixing your issue. I have the exact same thing happening to my 2003 RR HSE.
 

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Since he hasn't been online in over 5 years he most likely sold his Rover and moved on.
 
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