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Discussion Starter #1
All:
1998 Range Rover P38 Gems. I’ve been chasing down a number of leaks, including exhaust leak, oil cooler line leak and now what appears to be a transmission cooler leak. I replaced the center muffler today so the exhaust leak is gone. I also ordered the oil cooler lines for next weeks project.

That brings us to the transmission cooler leak. I noticed fluid on the bottom of the radiator just below the thermostat. The fluid is red so I assume it is the trans cooler. How hard is it to replace the trans cooler? Where exactly is the trans cooler located. I can trace to cooler lines into the radiator but where does it sit? Is there a DIY?
 

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It is right behind the grill. If it is leaking it may need to be snugged up.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for the reply. I will remove the front grill and check it out and report back. I just bought a subscription to AllDATADIY for the 1998 Gems P38. Very helpful.
 

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Took off the grill and was able to check out all of the radiators. Appears that the Transmission cooler is leaking from the right side. Ordered up new transmission cooler, o rings and oil cooler pipes as were both leaking. Spent about $700 in parts in last two weeks. New center exhaust, oil, oil filters, transmission cooler, and oil cooler pipes.
 

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Hey while you are in there make sure to check on this section of ac condenser. the rubber can harden and grind it down.
I caught mine in time but since you are in there why not check it out.
20180618_124341_LI.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #6
xrav22, what exactly am I looking for with respect to the rubber on the ac condenser?

I got the tranny fluid cooler replaced without much issue. However, both of my oil cooler lines were leaking so I bought new ones. However, when I tried to get the old coolant lines off I ran into significant problems. I soaked the nuts with PB blaster and waited for a few hours and they would not budge. I was able to get the lines off at the filter housing area. So I gently secured the cooler in a vice and and patiently tried to coax them off. No luck. Then tried to heat and cool them. No luck. Tried tapping, tried and tried and tried. The after hours upon hours I applied muscle and waaa laaa the darn thing snapped off with the nut still snuggly attached.

So I had to order and wait for a new oil cooler. Everything is now buttoned up and no leaks....so far.
 

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both tranny and oil coolers are known for snapping fittings. If the the repair time sensitive, for a trip, I always order which ever cooler and new hoses at the same time. IF I luck out and can save a cooling unit I return it to save the customer money.
 

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The rubber is attatched to your cover, but it will get haard and start scratching away at the corner of the condenser. I took a small chunk out and it is fine now. Yours may not be touching and has been taken care of. Best explanation is the pic above.
Good Luck with pipes.
 

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I know this is an older post. My prob is with changing the tranny cooler line how do you get to the upper line on the tranny? I can almost get a wrench on it, but seems the housing is to close to the nut?
 

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My cheap ass flare nut wrench wasn’t playing nice. Regular wrench worked fine. Now that I got it together having 2 issues with the shifting. This might need its own post. I took off the gear selector box and I noticed it can shift a little at the bolt holes where it attaches to the transmission when I put it back on. I have a pic so there’s no confusion on my part. And after the vehicle is turned off the wabco abs pump ticks for about 15-20 seconds then it’s just stops ticking. It didn’t do that previous.
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30B29822-C9C3-47A1-8767-57347D2E1881.jpeg
 

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What do you mean by trouble with shifting? The item you circled is the XYZ switch which drives the gear lever position LED next to the lever and also the dash display. If they are reading correctly then it's right.
 

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xyz should be under no sideways tension. Did you remount the original xyz, or was it a replacement? If so, is the part no. identical ? the 1998 mounting has a spacer on one bolt IIRC, the later part does not need one. When you tighten up the xyz mounting bolts it should not feel forced/ twisted - maybe the spacer fell off (although I think it's threaded tbh)
Other than that, those two holes are so you can fine adjust the xyz to match the gear selections. If they're not right at the gear selector/ instrument pack, then have someone sit inside and call the gear selections through from 1 to Park, and tighten when you get the full range.

Not sure ABS should have been impacted
 

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I didn’t replace it so should be original. When reattaching the xyz it wasn’t a tight fit on the 2 bolts, was able to pivot it before tightening it down. I’ll have to readjust xyz tomorrow. And the abs only does the ticking when I shift the gears. I can start and turn off w/o going threw the gears and no ticking. I’ll fix the gearing and see how it goes with the abs.
 

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Redid the xyz cable selector box. Only issue is neutral led jumps to R or D, it’s in gear and the led is fine on the other gears so not worried about it. And with the abs I thought I bought a front caliper which to find out it’s a rear caliper which I forgot about and it’s hitting the rim which is making all that noise and stuff when I let go of brake and not with the tranny. After I get a new front caliper I’m sure it should be all good.
 

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so selector bulb for neutral doesn't work, but instrument cluster displays "neutral" correctly? Should be alright then... Check you can get from Hi to Low properly too
 

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Doesn’t show N on cluster. Idk if it was like that before. And the hi/low shifts over, broken gear shows on cluster I know that is another issue on the list to fix
 

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When the gear shift is in neutral are you able to start the engine?
 

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It does start in neutral but have to jimmy the shifter so it does read it’s in neutral. I’ll have to readjust the cable when I get the chance. You mentioned about sideway tension. That’s from the bracket to the selector box? Or should be no tension from shifter-bracket-selector box
 

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The XYZ switch has detents at each gear position so should click into place if everything is adjusted correctly. If it doesn't read correctly you'll get a gearbox fault on the dash as the actual gear slector position as reported to the gearbox ECU won't match that reported by the switch. There should be no tension in anything, it should all be free to move as the cable moves.
 
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