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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all - hope someone can help with an issue that just starting happening today. I can't seem to find any help online with this one. With the car running and stationary I switch to manual mode then push the stick forward to go from 1st to 2nd as I do this I feel a slight bump or jolt. Manually going into 2 and 3 are smooth. I looked under the car while an assistant did the same action and I can see the propeller shaft slightly twist about 1/4 to 1/2 inch at the transfer case then spring back to its original position. The transmission seems fine. I went on a test drive, manual mode seems fine, can't perceive or feel a jerk. The car drives well in auto mode. Transfer case trouble code P0156 exists.

I don't know if this code is related or a separate issue but it caused me to check the voltage on my battery at rest and it was 11.8v, when I start the car it jumps to 13.9v. Unless I am mistaken I should have 12.6 and 14.5. I replaced the battery less than a year ago with a DieHard gold. I suspect a bad alternator or connection?

Hope I described this clearly and I hope someone has some advice. Presently 142k miles. I changed the transfer case fluid around 125k miles with OEM fluid, fill to spill.

Greatly appreciated - as always.

Thanks,

Michael
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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25 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Hi all - I discovered that this issue only occurs while the transmission is fully hot. When cold no perceived issue. I probably need to take it to a specialist for diagnostics. I just like to have as much foreknowledge as possible in those situations.

Hope someone can comment.

r/Michael
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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1,149 Posts
You must have mistyped your DTC code, because a P0156 is a Bank2 Sensor 2 O2 sensor fault, not a transfer case fault.
 

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I can't speak for the transfer case issue but the battery at rest @ 11.X is a dead battery. I'd just replace the battery and take it from there 13.9 isn't necessary a problem.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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1,945 Posts
I would suggest that you put the shifter into neutral,
then put the transfer into low range and drive around the neighborhood like this for a few miles,
then shift it back.

NOTE do the hi/low range a few times to exercise the system.
NOTE the shifter should stay in drive, so it will auto shift
not sport mode

About the battery it should be resting at 12.6 if not charge it with a 6 amp charger for two hours,
then test it after letting it sit to normalize for 4 hours.

normal charge rate for your truck should be about 13.9 to 14.4
charging at or below 13.4 can indicate a blown diode in the rectifier circuit.
This will eventually lead to a discharged battery ,
as the charging current isnt enough to charge the battery while running the trucks electric needs
 
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