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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So my transfer case gave in at last at 262k miles on my odometer. This was the original unit so i am happy it lasted this long with not a signle issue.
I started hearing a sligt bump whenever i engaged the shifter 6 years ago. It has takens that long for it to evovle into a vibration then a loud hollowing sound followwed by a rattle then a ringing and eventually a snap then free spining shaft with no drive.

i observed the evolution each day and could never quite tell what the issue was so i let it evolve in the hopes that whatever it was it would finally fail and save me the anguish of guessing what it was.

Looking at the prices online i noticed the “refurbished" ones going for between $399-$1200 BUT non of them include the notorious shift motor. That gem is sold seperately for somehwere between $100-$1400.. also refurbished. Then there's the core issues which i never agree with because they are basically buying your junk for cheap i hopes that they will re-sell it to you later when your new “old” unit packs up.

I also learned if you want a new shift motor is costs north if $1800 (electronic devise) nd if you want a brand new transfer case from the stealer they want noth of $7k for for it.
naturally i decided to hop across the pond and in the U.k they seem allergic to greed and the prices are much more realistic there.

I found a NEW transfer case WITH the shift motor included for $1900, throw in shipping , $187 and they guarantee you will have it in 3 days.
I pre paid duty ($90) and my total was around $2300 all in, VAT included.(lrdirect)

I bought the unit and currently waiting for it to show up , swapping the units is pretty straight forward so i will update on how it goes when done.

FYI I was returning from a business trip Form the north , the vibration begun around Washington dare and the unit finally packed up in sarasota fl.
I had 192 miles to go on my journey.. lol! Its been fun! Fix it and start again... glad it happened in sunny Florduh! and not up in Nebraska.
 

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So you have been playing with fire for 6 years I see lol I would absolutely hate taking long trip not knowing where it would leave me stranded.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
So you have been playing with fire for 6 years I see lol I would absolutely hate taking long trip not knowing where it would leave me stranded.
Rovah ...look at it more like a doctor observing symptoms for 6 years until the desease revealed itself..The symptoms at first were a very mild clank whenever i went into drive back then and i was able to observe it get worse slowly... so my confidence was based on understanding that it was a durable part wearing over time. this helped me understand that it would not strand in in the middle of the dessert as it was slowly getting worse and not a sudden fail.
i happen to be quite the risk taker unlike most folks...still have all my digits and my hide intact lol!
 

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Considering it was a one-off special designed just for the L322, the NV225 transfer box has proved itself to be remarkably mechanically durable.





It is a shame about the rotary potentiometer issues in the shift motor, and that despite our combined efforts, we never found a suitable source of spares or a direct replacement.







Land Rover have taken the opportunity over the years to increase the price of the shift motor to ridiculous levels.



Hard to believe that, 10 years ago, I used to source brand new motors for £50 (US$65) on eBay, and I was the only person bidding on them. Those days have certainly gone!



Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Considering it was a one-off special designed just for the L322, the NV225 transfer box has proved itself to be remarkably mechanically durable.





It is a shame about the rotary potentiometer issues in the shift motor, and that despite our combined efforts, we never found a suitable source of spares or a direct replacement.







Land Rover have taken the opportunity over the years to increase the price of the shift motor to ridiculous levels.



Hard to believe that, 10 years ago, I used to source brand new motors for £50 (US$65) on eBay, and I was the only person bidding on them. Those days have certainly gone!



Phil
Hi Phil , long time.. BTW thank you for the transmission advise you shared a little while back.. i still havent gotten into it yet , all i di was replace the torque converter and all my little issues vanished.. even bought the pressure solenoids but waiting until i do my next ilter luid change to replace those. so far so good on the tranny but the transfer case was one i have been watching for a while.

I agree they are versitile given what i have put his car through in ten years.. .Every year i have done more the 20k miles of heavy towing (over 8000 lbs.) so i suppose something had to give.

I plan on tearing down the old transfer case in an effort to complete my education on what failed. It was definitely mechanical and i say this based on the symptoms and how they evolved to complete failure.

I may be wrong but the final failure begun blinking LOW sign on the range selector, fail safe mode immediately activated and an audible spinning shaft but with no drive when i engage the drive gear.
All this was audiblly around the passenger seat area.
So i doubt it is the potentiometer but please advise if that little motor can cause such failure.
LRdirect had a complete transfer case (shift motor inluded) for $2300 all in.
I get a discount from them so might be more for others (north of over $2500).
It ships tomorrow and hopefully it's a straight swap and i'll be on my was again.

I think 262k miles is a decent run for such a nice motor but i'm sure i could get more if i can refurbish it and replace whatever gearwheel failed. i say gear wheel because the gap(clank) used to a small one and then gradually got bigger to the point where it now free spins.

I decided a new transfer case and shift motor is the way forward as i cant trust the u.s salesmen on ebay to sell me a good unit.
I recently bought a used nav unit and it never works right, so a little leary on purchasing used electronics at the moment.

It is indeed amazing on the pricing variations out there.. if you visit the LRdirect website and put in the l322 transfer case part number you ill see three options.. one of them is landrovers ridiculous price tag. im astounded that people pay that even while there are cheaper options for the very same item when new.
Thank you for sharing.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi Phil , long time.. BTW thank you for the transmission advise you shared a little while back.. i still havent gotten into it yet , all i di was replace the torque converter and all my little issues vanished.. even bought the pressure solenoids but waiting until i do my next ilter luid change to replace those. so far so good on the tranny but the transfer case was one i have been watching for a while.

I agree they are versitile given what i have put his car through in ten years.. .Every year i have done more the 20k miles of heavy towing (over 8000 lbs.) so i suppose something had to give.

I plan on tearing down the old transfer case in an effort to complete my education on what failed. It was definitely mechanical and i say this based on the symptoms and how they evolved to complete failure.

I may be wrong but the final failure begun blinking LOW sign on the range selector, fail safe mode immediately activated and an audible spinning shaft but with no drive when i engage the drive gear.
All this was audiblly around the passenger seat area.
So i doubt it is the potentiometer but please advise if that little motor can cause such failure.
LRdirect had a complete transfer case (shift motor inluded) for $2300 all in.
I get a discount from them so might be more for others (north of over $2500).
It ships tomorrow and hopefully it's a straight swap and i'll be on my was again.

I think 262k miles is a decent run for such a nice motor but i'm sure i could get more if i can refurbish it and replace whatever gearwheel failed. i say gear wheel because the gap(clank) used to a small one and then gradually got bigger to the point where it now free spins.

I decided a new transfer case and shift motor is the way forward as i cant trust the u.s salesmen on ebay to sell me a good unit.
I recently bought a used nav unit and it never works right, so a little leary on purchasing used electronics at the moment.

It is indeed amazing on the pricing variations out there.. if you visit the LRdirect website and put in the l322 transfer case part number you ill see three options.. one of them is landrovers ridiculous price tag. im astounded that people pay that even while there are cheaper options for the very same item when new.
Thank you for sharing.
BTW i had no codes so i know my transmission is fine and when i start the car and engage into drive i can hear something spinning, i suspect it is the shaft from the transmission shaft going into the transfer case doing that however i have no output from the transfer case to my differentials.

I Haven't ventured as far as to step out of the car while this is all happening in order to visually see which shaft is spinning but i suspect the fwd going shaft and aft going shafts that are outputs from the tranfer case are not engaging.. this would in my mind point to the main gear conecting both shafts since the vehicle is a constant all wheel drive . I dont have any schematics but hope to dig around before my investigative teardown.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
BTW i had no codes so i know my transmission is fine and when i start the car and engage into drive i can hear something spinning, i suspect it is the shaft from the transmission shaft going into the transfer case doing that however i have no output from the transfer case to my differentials.

I Haven't ventured as far as to step out of the car while this is all happening in order to visually see which shaft is spinning but i suspect the fwd going shaft and aft going shafts that are outputs from the tranfer case are not engaging.. this would in my mind point to the main gear conecting both shafts since the vehicle is a constant all wheel drive . I dont have any schematics but hope to dig around before my investigative teardown.
I will soon find out what failed... watching and observing for so long taught me a lot i know the issue is in the transfer case not the transmission as whenever i engaged the shifter the clank was always in the back there is output from the transmission then it gets fuzzy around the transfer case....my differentials are all new.. if it is the potentiometer motor then i just might remove the new one i get plunk it in and see if it is fixed before i venture into a complete transfer box swap out.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
NO KIDDING!... phil is right.. it just may be that notorious shift motor.. my research led me to the patent application for the notorious units and the description was so good i had to copy/paste it here as the eductation is invaluable.
This description below describes the function of the transfer case and that helped me begin to realize that it just may be the culprit..my qustion is how does such a singular unit cause such a major effect on an entire mechanical units functions?... wow!

"A shift actuator for a vehicle transfer case includes a bidirectional electric motor for positioning gearing in the transfer case. An indicator mechanism associated with the drive train between the motor and the transfer case provides electrical signals indicative of the actual position in, and thus operating state, of the gearing in the transfer case. A selector switch provides electrical signals indicative of a desired operating state of the transfer case gearing. An electronic control is responsive to an input from the selector switch and to the indicator mechanism for effecting rotation of the motor in a predetermined one or other direction to attain the desired operating state. The indicator mechanism includes a contact plate, which rotates with the drive train, and a set of stationary contacts. A conductive pattern on the contact plate identifies the positioning of the operating states of the transfer case gearing. Signals indicating the condition of the vehicle, as its speed and the state of its transmission, serve to allow or to inhibit certain responses to certain selected states of the transfer case gearing."
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Do i need to drain my transmission fluid to detach the tranfer case? i see 6 torx bolts but no gasket so it appears there is a seal around the detachable shaft but i would like to make sure before i go removing stuff next week.
 

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The transmission and transfer box use incompatible fluids, so each is sealed to prevent cross-contamination. You can therefore separate the two without risk of fluid escaping.





Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The transmission and transfer box use incompatible fluids, so each is sealed to prevent cross-contamination. You can therefore separate the two without risk of fluid escaping.





Phil
Thank you , i took off the actuatorv today and at a glance it looks fine , the fluid however that seeped out of that connecting worm gear to the actuator was really bad looking grey sludge , i suspect a much deeper internal failure in the thransfer case thant the regular actuator failure. will find out soon enough , unit is on its way... Thank you Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thank you , i took off the actuatorv today and at a glance it looks fine , the fluid however that seeped out of that connecting worm gear to the actuator was really bad looking grey sludge , i suspect a much deeper internal failure in the thransfer case thant the regular actuator failure. will find out soon enough , unit is on its way... Thank you Phil
Am i correct to believe tht any major issues with the transmission would be preceded by a code?
 

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Am i correct to believe tht any major issues with the transmission would be preceded by a code?
Providing the engineers writing the diagnostic code foresaw the particular issue you’re experiencing and allocated a fault code to it.

Sounds like your cause is likely to be a mechanical failure e.g. worn spline, failed shaft, Torsen unit failure, Hy-Vo chain/sprocket issue, high-low shift mechanism problem, etc. rather than being related to the electrical/electronic side e.g. the potentiometer. It will be interesting to see which component finally gives way first on these highly durable units.












Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Providing the engineers writing the diagnostic code foresaw the particular issue you’re experiencing and allocated a fault code to it.

Sounds like your cause is likely to be a mechanical failure e.g. worn spline, failed shaft, Torsen unit failure, Hy-Vo chain/sprocket issue, high-low shift mechanism problem, etc. rather than being related to the electrical/electronic side e.g. the potentiometer. It will be interesting to see which component finally gives way first on these highly durable units.












Phil
Agreed , given the duration befroe complete failure i think it ismore than just the potentiometer... im sure it is mechanical given the symptoms and how it played out. will take pics and share once i perform the surgery. Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Shipment has been lost by DHL ... last tracked to cinicinatti and has gone silent from there , was supposed to be delivered yesterday but so far no one knows where it is... strange called DHL and they advised me that at the moment it ppears the shipment has been lost and they do not have any answers , advised me to contact the shipper for a refund and or a replacement unit to be shipped. WOW!o_O
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Providing the engineers writing the diagnostic code foresaw the particular issue you’re experiencing and allocated a fault code to it.

Sounds like your cause is likely to be a mechanical failure e.g. worn spline, failed shaft, Torsen unit failure, Hy-Vo chain/sprocket issue, high-low shift mechanism problem, etc. rather than being related to the electrical/electronic side e.g. the potentiometer. It will be interesting to see which component finally gives way first on these highly durable units.












Phil
Thx Phil, so the notorious motor is responsible for engaging a series of gear wheels according to the video.. .that is very interesting... i still think i should replace the entire unit BUT i will buy a used good transfer box motor and see if it runs the unit using a battery off the car once i have it out and my replacement unit is found and or a new one eventually gets to me.
Also remember the issue i had with my transmission a year or so ago where i told you it was revving up before shifting at low speeds? and You advised that it may be some cracked return pipe or a worn seal?
It stopped after i replaced all my coils and my injectors , the issue went away after i found a badly leaking injector and replaced it i literally had a pool of fuel in in cylinder #1air intake .

Glad it was not transmission issues but it always amazes me how a problem detected in one place could be the disfuntion of a component in a defferent part of the engine but obviosly electronically connected.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
:rolleyes::rolleyes::censored::cry:..so New transfer case is in and looks really nice BUT... while i was under there i made another unpleasant discovery.
When i too the old unit out this morining i had the opportuniy to spin free shafts and cup links to see if there was any play.
Knowing that the vehicleis a constant all wheel drive there should be no spin on any shaft when detached from the transfer case shaft links.
Fronf shaft was nice and tight
Rear shaft spun freely and the loud clanking that i heard when all hell broke loose however only hafe the shaft spins and the other half going into the rear differential is not.
Prognosis:i i have a failed rear shaft and or union as there is heavey grease splatter in the rear part of the car.

When i spun the transfer case shaft connetions the new and the old behave exactly the same way.

Prognosis: i amy not have a bad transfer case after all but i will only know whn i open it up
Prognosis: I definitely have a failed rear shaft which explains why it took so long to completely fail.
this IMO is a very rare type of failure but the vehicle also undetook very rare heavy towing for the last ten years so the weakest point gave in.
Parts: From what i gather a completely new rear shaft costs somewhere between$1200-$1500 .
It is a purely mechanical item so i think i can get away with a used one that has a new union if the splines are good.
Does anyone know if the shaft is reparable? as in replaceing the union joint etc? i think it is doable...
Everything looked good around the transmission output shaft spline , no rust no wear .
Project took just under 4 hours to do , i had a transmission jack and did it at the hotel parking lot , it was easy to remove the old unit but trick getting the new one up alone...
one has to position it a certain way in order to jack it up and line it up just enough to get it started but not have the splines in line because you need to spin it to line up the tort bolt holes.. Now to source a shaft... hopefull i get o drive off Monday.

NOTE: new t-cases do not come with the vibration damper in place (image 0838) fortunately i had one as a spare that i kept for years as i initially thought this was the issue 8 years ago.. it has to be pressed in with a heavy duty shop press , that was the hardest part of the entire operation.

284288
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So the failure was the rear shaft rear hub , all the ball bearing were bad and the hub cap was also ruined. the rear shaft can be replaced without removing the exhaust system , took an hour tops to swap it out.See photos
 

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Pardon my ignorance, so it was the rear drive shaft between the transfer case and rear differential? Slip yoke?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Pardon my ignorance, so it was the rear drive shaft between the transfer case and rear differential? Slip yoke?
No not the slip yoke, the hub with the ball bearings at the very end , look at the pictures you see the bolts that connect to the rear differential , just fwd of those is the hub packed with grease and contained ball bearings. thats the part that failed. Vehy hard to detect so it took 8 years for it to fail completely.. i could not find it as no one ever thinks that would fail until it does.good news is a new hub can be putin along with a new carrier bearing housing and it will be all new again... save myself $1500 bucks.
 
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