[highfive_j]

I bought a 2004 rr 4.4 from a auction car ran fine for 3 weeks no issues other than needed a tune up (spark plugs are original) so here's the issue
The car shifts and drives exactly how it should when cold up until maybe 20 mins. After the 20 mins mark trans fail comes on and 5th and reverse only work. You have to leave the stop light slowly as hell with your 4 way on. After you park it and it gets into a deep cold state (ie after a night) turn it on and drives perfect. But only after its completely cold. Tried Taking The Battery off when it's warmed up and trying to reset the computer thinking its a glitch, but still does it ruling out a ecu problem.
I love this car to death please help I have more money in it than it's worth and I just want to enjoy it.

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[ddillenger]

Likely trans is overheating. Get a good scan tool, check the Transmission computer for faults. If it is, you'll need a new radiator as the trans cooler gets coolant from the bottom, and the sediment that develops tends to cover the heat exchanger resulting in overheating and failsafe.

 

[RRPhil]

If your transmission fails safe to 5[SUP]th[/SUP] gear rather than 4[SUP]th[/SUP] then it’s a dead giveaway that your A-clutch is slipping. What you’ve described is by far the most common problem of all on the 5HP24. Well over half of the 5HP24s that I rebuild suffer from exactly this issue.

It’s caused by a £6 axial roller bearing having worn/failed :

which leads to a 50p O-ring splitting :

Phil

 

[03rangiemark]

If your transmission fails safe...

Phil

Phil,
Do regular transmission fluid and filter changes make this an avoidable failure?
If not, is there anything maintenance or usage-wise that can help avoid this failure from happening?

 

[RRPhil]

The load on the bearing is proportional to the pressure in the A-clutch and its speed depends on which gear is engaged and the engine speed :

The A-clutch pressure, in turn, is proportional to engine torque so the damage cycles on this axial bearing will be at their worst in 1[SUP]st[/SUP], 2[SUP]nd[/SUP] and 3[SUP]rd[/SUP] gears when the engine load is high. In 4[SUP]th[/SUP] gear there’s no relative speed across the bearing and in 5[SUP]th[/SUP] and reverse the A-clutch isn’t engaged so there will be no axial load.

In my opinion, therefore, the life of this bearing is directly related to the time the vehicle has spent in low forward gears at high load (towing, climbing hills, ‘spirited’ driving, etc.). A vehicle that has spent its life cruising up and down the motorway in 5[SUP]th[/SUP] gear is least likely to see this failure. I emphasize that this is just my opinion.

The problem is, of course, that people are now buying L322s that are second or third hand and have no idea of the usage history so it becomes a complete lottery as to whether or not your transmission will be affected by this issue.

Regarding fluid/filter changes, I’m not convinced they’ll make a lot of difference to the life of this particular bearing but, in general, I believe the fluid should be changed more frequently than ZF’s recommendation of 10 years/100,000 miles. This is because of the particular transmission fluid cooling issues with the pre-‘06 L322s which will cause the fluid to oxidise more quickly than was envisaged when the refill periods were originally specified.

Phil

 

[03rangiemark]

Thanks for the great info, as always, Phil.
So as it sounds, this tranny isn't particularly suited for off-road excursions that the RR is professedly built to handle.

I'm saddened to hear that you no longer have your L322.
What made you get rid of it?
What do you have now?

Thank you very much for still assisting those of us that still operate the L322.

 

[RBraga]

Hi,
I have a 2006 L322 range rover (td6) with similar symptoms:
The car shifts and drives exactly how it should when cold up until maybe 20 mins.
After +- 20 min:
in 5[SUP]th[/SUP] gear the gearbox dont lock up
no errors...

Range rover has 220.000Km and it has a torque convertor with 20.000Km.

Can i assume that i have the same problem (axial roller bearing having worn/failed) ?
It is only necessarie to change the axial roller bearing? or is necessary to rebuilt the box?

Thanks for all
Ricardo

 

[RRPhil]

No, the 3.0 litre TD6 uses a completely different transmission (GM 5L40-E) to the 4.4 V8 (ZF 5HP24)

http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-...22/34259-gm-5l40-e-transmission-teardown.html

Phil

 

[RBraga]

Of course it is different! i'm so stupid ...

i'm going to read the GM 5L40-E transmission teardown to have an answer to my case.

Phil, thank you very much

 

[diff]

In Canada so i just found out that bearing was quoted at $80. As a thrust bearing I am assuming it stops longitudinal movement but would appreciate the mechanics that allow the oring to wear and break. If end play becomes excessive does it allow the shaft to wobble or is there another bearing that wears and allows things to move sideways causing the o-ring to break. Thanks for helping us understand this trans. i have given ours to a rebuilder who i hope will do us right. Our failure was likely exacerbated due to a plugged trans cooler on the water side. The rad had been changed but the cooler was not done at the same time and after cutting it open one could really imagine what the rads look like when the lower cores fill up. However the cooler water is fed thru the cooler from water that comes off the lower rad hose and flows thru a trans stat so my thought is that the trans cooler suffers the same fate as the rad over time (especially since the passages in the cooler are quite small) and should be changed when the rad is changed. The oil side on our cooler was still very clear.