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Hi, This is my first post after joining this site, so I hope you guys can help!

I recently brought my first Range Rover a 2002 L322 HSE, she is Java Black. I have had the Air Suspension struts replaced, a tensioning arm replaced on a drive belt, new air conditioning and finally a sensor replace on the rear near side wheel, all this In this a month, oh and a new rad and had the oil changed in the transmission as it was black.

I now have a fail safe prog, which activates as soon as 'my girl' gets up to temperature, usually about 5-10 minutes in the journey and then it switches into 'limp home mode' I think it's called.

I have had several garages look at her and they have come up with different things, one has said it's an electrical problem and although the the transmission will need looking at in the future it is okay for now, they did mention that there were some small bits of metal shavings in there but it was okay.

Another garage said that it is a solenoid problem and finally another one say there is a 'open ended fault' in the electrics. I am somewhat at a loss now as I have three different opinions.

So my question is has anyone experienced something like this or does anyone have any suggestion what I could/should do next. I love the car and for four to ten minutes a day she drives like a dream from cold. I have already invested a bit of money, working on the car but am not sure what to do next?

Hope some good advice will come along, thanks James
 

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Hello, Mr. Church - WELCOME TO "The Forum"!!!!

There are MANY posts in the L322 forum that address the exact problem you describe, in its various states of exhibition. Did the problem begin soon after the trans fluid was replaced? The same sort of things can happen when the fluid isn't properly filled from what I've read and heard. As you can find in many existing posts on transmission fluid, it must be topped-off at temperature.
Another possibility is the transmission oil cooler could be clogged, either on the coolant side or the oil side.

Things may work different over on that side of the pond, but over here, I would NEVER trust a general purpose mechanic to work on a RR, especially the BMW designed MYs. It's a very finicky vehicle, with a personality of its own. If a general purpose transmission mechanic put any fluid other than the correct (specific Mobil or Pentosin fluid, or rebranded names of those such as described in other posts) specific one, or the correct filter, it will let you know it' not happy.
 

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Hi James,

Do you have the diesel TD6 or the petrol V8 engine. They have different transmissions.

Phil
 

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James,

You have the ZF 5HP24 transmission. Over 50% of the 5HP24’s that I fix suffer from exactly this problem.

It’s generally caused by a failed bearing inside the transmission (between the B-clutch hub and the C-clutch drum) and the resulting clearance allows the input shaft to slide axially inside the B-clutch drum causing an O-ring seal to split.





When the transmission fluid is cold the oil pump can keep up with the leakage through the damaged seal but once the fluid gets hot and its viscosity reduces the leakage is so high that the pump can no longer apply sufficient pressure to the A-clutch and it slips. The transmission ECU detects the slip and puts the transmission into failsafe mode. As the A-clutch is used in 1[SUP]st[/SUP], 2[SUP]nd[/SUP], 3[SUP]rd[/SUP] and 4[SUP]th[/SUP] gears – and 4[SUP]th[/SUP] gear is the one usually selected by the controller for failsafe mode - the ECU has no choice other than to select 5[SUP]th[/SUP] gear (which uses the B & D clutches) and it usually engages with a thump. Reverse is unaffected (as it uses the C & F clutches) so should still operate as usual. Once the fluid cools down, transmission operation temporarily returns to normal until the whole process repeats itself.

Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the suggestions very helpful I will look into it at the weekend and speak to the garage. Let's hope they will listen. Kind regards James
 

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Sorry to hijack this thread.

But I have a similar issue with the trans fail safe, but only when I start the car in Park or move the gear back into park, if I start the car in neutral and then go into drive it's fine or come to a stop at the lights and still use neutral no issues, but as soon as I put it back into Park then the trans issue appears! Any suggestions would be awesome! :)

Thanks
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
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That will most likely be your inhibitor switch playing up.



If you get the DTCs read a P0705 code will confirm.

Phil
 

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Another hijack here.

I also get this every so often when I first start the car. All I have to do though is turn it off, wait and then turn it back on and it will go away.
Would this just be the switch you mention too RRPhil ???
 

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That's exactly how mine started, turn it off and on again, it would clear the fault! :)
But it's gotten worse over time, so I will investigate the above post.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hi All,

After posing I unfortunately became very ill and my car was off the toad for several month while the garage tried to fix it. I am lucky I have a friend who helped me out with the car. Phil thanks for all the suggestions it turned out to be a solenoid B problem once that was replaced it worked fine. I am back on the repairing and restoration of my car and working hard to bring it back to its former glory.

Thanks again for all the suggestions.

James
 

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Phil,, I have a 2005 RR Vogue, 4.4 V8 with ZF transmission. Ive recently got trans failsafe mode on morning starts, i remove key re insert and off i got no issues at all. Ive done 60k miles, trans smooth in all manner and ratios. I put it into dealer to get fault code, its P0705, dealer suggests checking all connectors, then gear switch, then ECU in that order. IF i need a gear switch where in UK would you recommend i get one, dont want to give up on it but want to be sensible rather than throw parts at it. What would you suggest? Regards
 

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Does anyone know the part number for the inhibitor switch and best place to get one in UK that will ship overseas? My car at sho[ at present due to speak to Service manager Monday morning, any help you can provide to my posts pre that time would be great.
 

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Unfortunately the inhibitor switches are stupidly expensive to buy new so I’d be tempted to de-rivet your existing one and clean up the internal contacts before giving up on it. Clearly though this won’t help if one of the wiper fingers has broken off, etc.

The Land Rover part number is UHB 500020 and the ZF number 0501 319 191. Note that a BMW E53 inhibitor switch will not fit as the wire lengths are different - it has to be a Range Rover switch.

Phil
 

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Thanks Phil, its with the dealer at present, they've checked all connectors etc but tell me its the inhibitor switch. Fault code P0705 , in your experience does that code mean inhibitor switch or ECU need changing? One last question is how bug a job is that to change out the switch in terms of hours required and is it a job a non LR mechanic could do if they have the workshop manual? Regards
 

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It will be the switch causing the error code, not the ECU.

The switch is simple to replace as it’s bolted to the outside of the transmission casing and just held on with a couple of screws.



The selector lever needs to be removed first from the end of the selector shaft (one nut) and then the tin cover which protects the switch from off-road damage (two bolts).



The switch is dowelled to the casing to ensure the correct alignment so there’s no setting up to do.



Gaining access to the connector will probably require removal of the air intake plenum (which captures the air for the heating system) from under the bonnet but this is a simple task too. Any mechanic should easily be able to sort this and it should take minutes, not hours.

Phil
 

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Thanks Phil, now here is why I'm not a mechanic. I have a Bosh trans not a ZF trans as I thought. Dealer has just given me back my car after 5 days of tests, fault code P0705, they tested all the wires connectors etc and the pin readings when in N, P, R and D all of which they said were within range. What they did say was " Checked valve body solenoid output from TCM, Not in spec for shift solenoids A + C. carrioed out wiring continuity checks OK, Valve body at fault which in turn may have damaged TCM. Repair method 1) Complete transmission and TCM replacement or 2) Valve body + TCM replace. Fault code is sporadic" Then service gave me a quote in GBP approx 12,000 for parts alone. Not sure what to think, other than the fault flashes up mornings every 3 day then key out back in it goes away. Thoughts? I'm sorry about describing transmission as ZF, didn't even know it was available in Bosch and workshop manual as best I can see doesn't refer to Bosch transmission.

Seems to me there may be a fair amount of "guess" in their diagnosis but once you get to thsi stage it seems par for teh course. To cap it all they said they've never seen anythign like this before and they dont get many old cars in anymore.
 

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Ok well the error code I had from the dealer was P0705 and you dont want to know how much they quoted to fix it. So get this, on starting I now turn the key to half way to light up the dash etc, then with foot on brake move the gear selector from park down thoruhg the gears to drive and back to park, then complete the key turn to full ignition, The trans failsafe has yet to come on once i started this, its as though i give the car a chance to see the gear selector move and catch up with itself prior to igniiton and thus no error code. The car only provided the fault sporadically and only on initial start up in the morning.
 

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Should have known my "fix" was temporary back to trans failsafe mode on start up each morning then key out and in few times and it goes away, car behaves itself perfectly after that till next morning. As I said prior dealer said "checked valve body solenoid output from TCM , NOT in spec for shift solenoids A +C, then carried out wiring continuity checks all ok. " "Valve body at fault which in turn may have damaged TCM" They suggested changing full transmission or first try replacing TCM and Valve body. Im at wits end with this issue. What would you suggest to do first, the parts #'s they quoted I needed are TGB000100, LGH500020, LNN000030 STC4444, YMD001500. Im happy to buy the parts to fix this and have it worked on but dealer not filling me with confidence at all.
 
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