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Discussion Starter #1
What is the down side to using a generic wiring kit and not the expensive one w/ the box? Do you run the risk of burning something out? I am just looking at pulling some light wt trailers for the most part....
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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i use an electronic converter box to make it so i dont get a light out message.
the one i have also protects the range rovers ecm's if there is a short in the trailer wiring. already paid for itself when i hooked onto a trailer that had a dead short in a tail light.

martin
 

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I followed the directions on discoweb.org under the tech section for a Disco II. never had any problems.
 

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All the hard part is done in the factory; you only need to plug in to the pre made socket behind one of the taillights - Right hand in the UK but I don't know if that varies.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
waveydavey said:
All the hard part is done in the factory; you only need to plug in to the pre made socket behind one of the taillights - Right hand in the UK but I don't know if that varies.
The cheapest I have seen the Rover kit is almost $200. I can go to the local auto parts store and buy the kit for $10 and wire it but then I would not have the box. I was just trying to figure outwhat the box does and if it was worth the $. Sounds like I run the risk of a short if I do not use the RR kit....
 

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I found a generic 7 wire kit for $29, even has a little trap door. i use an adapter to mate to the 4 wire plug. much neater
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I purchased one at Kragen for $20.00 used the plug at the right tail light works great..

Scotty
 

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Are you looking at just a trailer or full auxiliary including split charge etc.?

The former is dead easy and cheap; as I said they put a socket behind the light and you effectively just plug an extension lead into that.

The split charge etc. is more expensive and yes you do need some sort of "box".

In essence to 'tow a trailer' you should be able to do it for $30 or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sorry for the silly question but what is a "split charge" and why would I need it? Mainly I just want to be able to pull a little lawn trailer but I want the ability to pull a good size (20') boat as well...
 

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a split charge system on a trailer allows the vehicle to charge a battery fitted within your trailer.

It also denotes a system instlled within the vehicle allowing 2 batteries to be charged when the engine is running and often only one battery to be used for cranking the engine while the other is used for appliances (such as a fridge)
It stops the starting battery going flat.
 

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A 'split charge system' is when the charge coming out of your alternator, is 'split' between more than 1 battery. This can be multiple batteries onboard the car (- to run winch/fridge in boot/etc), or more generically charging batteries in a trailer as well as the engine start battery. Split charge systems take a lot of their technology from Marine situations, where you often have many batteries on vessels, all being charged from a common large alternator.

There are often problems with split charge systems. After the engine has stopped running, you normally want each battery to be independant of each other (- so you have multiple power sources). Having a 'manual way' to connect/dis-connect is a bad idea (- you will forget sometimes), so how do you automate the paralleling/separating of the batteries? Getting a relay that can handle a large enough current can be a problem. Also, what are you going to use to trigger the relay - sometimes you would only want the batteries paralleled after the engine is started and the alternator is producing good output (- so that a flat 'auxillary' doesn't 'drag down' your starting battey and stop you starting). Another problem is 'volts drop' along the charge cables. As often the additional batteries are not in the same location as the 'start' battery, then some of the large charge cables will be different lengths. These different lengths cause quite large differences in how much charge each battery gets - longer and smaller-diameter cables make the problem even worse. Split charging is not simple - it takes times, research and $$ to get an acceptable solution.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
paul.adshead said:
A 'split charge system' is when the charge coming out of your alternator, is 'split' between more than 1 battery. This can be multiple batteries onboard the car (- to run winch/fridge in boot/etc), or more generically charging batteries in a trailer as well as the engine start battery. Split charge systems take a lot of their technology from Marine situations, where you often have many batteries on vessels, all being charged from a common large alternator.

There are often problems with split charge systems. After the engine has stopped running, you normally want each battery to be independant of each other (- so you have multiple power sources). Having a 'manual way' to connect/dis-connect is a bad idea (- you will forget sometimes), so how do you automate the paralleling/separating of the batteries? Getting a relay that can handle a large enough current can be a problem. Also, what are you going to use to trigger the relay - sometimes you would only want the batteries paralleled after the engine is started and the alternator is producing good output (- so that a flat 'auxillary' doesn't 'drag down' your starting battey and stop you starting). Another problem is 'volts drop' along the charge cables. As often the additional batteries are not in the same location as the 'start' battery, then some of the large charge cables will be different lengths. These different lengths cause quite large differences in how much charge each battery gets - longer and smaller-diameter cables make the problem even worse. Split charging is not simple - it takes times, research and $$ to get an acceptable solution.
Thank you for all of the explainations. I don't think I have a future need for the "split charge" situation so I will probably give the generic option a shot! I am feeling brave so I think I will try to solve the trailer wiring issue AND the a/c issue this weekend..... maybe next weekend I will try to figure out how to get rid of all the dash lights that tell me about a problem w/ the lift system now that the truck has been converted to coils...
 
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