The cheapest I have seen the Rover kit is almost $200. I can go to the local auto parts store and buy the kit for $10 and wire it but then I would not have the box. I was just trying to figure outwhat the box does and if it was worth the $. Sounds like I run the risk of a short if I do not use the RR kit....waveydavey said:All the hard part is done in the factory; you only need to plug in to the pre made socket behind one of the taillights - Right hand in the UK but I don't know if that varies.
Thank you for all of the explainations. I don't think I have a future need for the "split charge" situation so I will probably give the generic option a shot! I am feeling brave so I think I will try to solve the trailer wiring issue AND the a/c issue this weekend..... maybe next weekend I will try to figure out how to get rid of all the dash lights that tell me about a problem w/ the lift system now that the truck has been converted to coils...paul.adshead said:A 'split charge system' is when the charge coming out of your alternator, is 'split' between more than 1 battery. This can be multiple batteries onboard the car (- to run winch/fridge in boot/etc), or more generically charging batteries in a trailer as well as the engine start battery. Split charge systems take a lot of their technology from Marine situations, where you often have many batteries on vessels, all being charged from a common large alternator.
There are often problems with split charge systems. After the engine has stopped running, you normally want each battery to be independant of each other (- so you have multiple power sources). Having a 'manual way' to connect/dis-connect is a bad idea (- you will forget sometimes), so how do you automate the paralleling/separating of the batteries? Getting a relay that can handle a large enough current can be a problem. Also, what are you going to use to trigger the relay - sometimes you would only want the batteries paralleled after the engine is started and the alternator is producing good output (- so that a flat 'auxillary' doesn't 'drag down' your starting battey and stop you starting). Another problem is 'volts drop' along the charge cables. As often the additional batteries are not in the same location as the 'start' battery, then some of the large charge cables will be different lengths. These different lengths cause quite large differences in how much charge each battery gets - longer and smaller-diameter cables make the problem even worse. Split charging is not simple - it takes times, research and $$ to get an acceptable solution.