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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Care to explain what it is we are looking at? You have two photos of a bunch of wires and some box and then a shot of your EAS compressor. Can you give us a little more to go on like what you are plugging into, where you routed bits? You have a red wire with a screw end added... are you adding that to something?
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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With these two parts you can save yourself the hassle and the money of installing the trailer harness from Land Rover that costs from $300-$450.
Curt 56146KIT
https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Curt/56146KIT.html?feed=npn&gclid=CjwKCAjwqcHLBRAqEiwA-j4AyNyXt0zpEmNd_QDwbJ6cgE17QBWEhCm3Oh4wBCAmeVRufz52D9Af4xoCXJUQAvD_BwE
Attached are the install photos I took. It's almost just as easy as plug and play setups.
Here are the colors for the following wires you will need to put wire taps (included) into:

From actual tailight harness:
Tail light Yellow/Black stripe
Brake light Black/Blue stripe

From White trailer connector harness plug:
Right Turn signal Blue/Brown stripe
Left Turn signal Blue/Green stripe

Your power (+) (Black) can be paired with the red 6gauge power supply to the rear fuse box as shown in the picture. Also you will need to get an inline fuse that's 30AMP to protect your trailer power converter.

Ground can be placed on mounting bracket screw as shown in the picture (White Wire).

The picture of the spare tire area is showing the running of the actual 4 wire trailer plug that will be mounted down by the hitch. To route this I cut a slit in the factory rectangle grommet and pushed the plug through and after I had enough slack under the car sealed it with silicone.
 

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Thanks for the detailed write up, it's great to have another option. The factory kit is a breeze to install & has the module so the vehicle is aware the trailer is connected. It is pricey though. I would wire it this way if I wanted to save some $$ though.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Hi since the addition of the trailer harness, have to you experienced any electrical gremlins? The reason I ask is several individuals mentioned going this route may cause problems due to adding additional lights which the computer will not recognize the voltage change (hope I worded this correctly).
 

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Not sure which member your are asking of, but neither have been online in ages so you are unlikely to get a response.
 

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Here are the colors for the following wires you will need to put wire taps (included) into:

From actual tailight harness:
Tail light Yellow/Black stripe
Brake light Black/Blue stripe

From White trailer connector harness plug:
Right Turn signal Blue/Brown stripe
Left Turn signal Blue/Green stripe

Your power (+) (Black) can be paired with the red 6gauge power supply to the rear fuse box as shown in the picture. Also you will need to get an inline fuse that's 30AMP to protect your trailer power converter.

Ground can be placed on mounting bracket screw as shown in the picture (White Wire).

The picture of the spare tire area is showing the running of the actual 4 wire trailer plug that will be mounted down by the hitch. To route this I cut a slit in the factory rectangle grommet and pushed the plug through and after I had enough slack under the car sealed it with silicone.
Thanks for this!
just installed mine, no issues ($24)
 

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It looks like there are about 3 different L322 setups. With my '12, there is no box, I assume because the trailer enabling is now a software setting. I don't want to tap the tail lights, most likely use this from AB:
Unless somebody knows the plug ID to mate up to the factory harness. The rest would be easy enough to make. I haven't looked for the pin out in the manual yet.
 

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i ended up with a extra wire on my 2006 when installing the factory kit, where they diagram says the lead is supposed to go is occupied by the tailgate latch lead, left it unconnected and it seems to work, although with the 4 pin adapter, the right turn signal does not.
 
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