I would be looking at wheel speed sensor readings. I think the most likely culprit is a bad wheel speed sensor. A sensor that is sending out erroneous readings (usually staying at low volts) will lead the ECM to activate the electronic traction control (ETC).
The quickest and easiest way to test is with a scan tool that shows individual wheel speed. However if that is not available you can raise the vehicle so the wheel you are testing spins freely and back probe the wheel speed/ABS sensor. The sensors are two wire, one wire provides power and the other wire provides a return signal as the wheel spins. By rotating the tire you can induce a current fluctuation into the signal wire that will show up on a volt meter. Presumably the faulty sensor will not show a change it volts—however this is not always the case. The signal could be dropping out under certain conditions (which is why a scan tool that can monitor individual wheel speed is much more useful)
Also, sometimes rust on the knuckle can cause the sensor to pull away and open a gap between it and the ring in the half shaft. This causes erroneous readings as well.
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The quickest and easiest way to test is with a scan tool that shows individual wheel speed. However if that is not available you can raise the vehicle so the wheel you are testing spins freely and back probe the wheel speed/ABS sensor. The sensors are two wire, one wire provides power and the other wire provides a return signal as the wheel spins. By rotating the tire you can induce a current fluctuation into the signal wire that will show up on a volt meter. Presumably the faulty sensor will not show a change it volts—however this is not always the case. The signal could be dropping out under certain conditions (which is why a scan tool that can monitor individual wheel speed is much more useful)
Also, sometimes rust on the knuckle can cause the sensor to pull away and open a gap between it and the ring in the half shaft. This causes erroneous readings as well.
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