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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all.

I need to replace one of the track rod ends on the black bodge. The ball joint popped straight off with the splitter, but the thread is proving to be a real pain to get out of the rod. It's a left hand thread (passengerside UK car), its been soaked in WD40 but simple wont shift... :crybaby2: ... :doh:

Anyone have any tips/ ideas?
 

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Oh yes, the fond memories of scun knuckles and profanaties flying whilst doing this job :!: Not quite sure what you've done with the splitter, but I ended up soaking the end is degreaser for 2 days, then after hitting or 'shocking' the thread with a hammer and prying the ends apart with a screw driver I put a large bench vice other the other end thread (so it wouldn't move), running over the other end knuckle with the car (fun with no steering) and using a large double ended ring spanner (roughly 1 inch) 'hooked' over the 'bendy threaded bit' that goes into the steering yoke casting, and levering on that.

Hope this helps....... best of luck.
Isn't it about 3am in the u.k. at the moment?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Heat and lubricant. Torch (nothing special, propane will do) and bees wax alternately heating and soaking with the wax. Took a few cylces to get mine to break loose. It still unscrewed with a bit of effort, but this got it free.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks chaps

Not quite sure what you've done with the splitter
I used the splitter to disconnect the ball joint from the steering knuckle/hub assembly. I relatively easy job by comparison.

Thanks for the tips. I have some days off work at the moment, hence why I'm takling the jobs to do on the black bodge. I think heat, hammering and generally more time on it will be the order of today!....oh I'm gonna have fun this afternoon :dance:

Isn't it about 3am in the u.k. at the moment?
Heck No...about 11pm here when you posted Benji
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Finally got it done...

I used an angle grinder to take the top off the ball joint, removed the ball, then slid a breaker bar through the ball joint housing (the bit that held the ball before I removed it) to get some leverage to unscrew it from the rod. That and a combination of heat, hitting it with a heavy mallet, WD40 penetrating oil. and persistance got it done.
 

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Too funny. I just did this yesterday. I was replacing the ball joints on the drag link and track rod. The first three came off easily. The last one not so much. Took it down to my local garage and they put the heat to it. It came right off.

Colin
 

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Just got the Green one back from MOT test today. It failed on only one thing (in nice condition generally though).....yep!... I'm going to be doing another Trackrod end this weekend!!! hohum :roll:
 

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FWIW, I've found a killer replacement for good ol' WD40. My parts guy at Advance here in San Antonio recommended PB Blaster when I complained about a bolt that was giving me fits - and it's a flippin' miracle in a can. I don't know if you can get it in Sunny Tropical Manchester, but it's sure worth a look. Best discovery I've made since SeaFoam. 45 years old and still learning every day.
 

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I'll add another vote of confidence for PB Blaster. For the last 20 years or so I've used GM Heat Valve Lubricant and Penetrant (not the most mellifluous name), and it is good. I bought a can of PB Blaster a month ago out of curiosity, and it really works well.

Scott
 
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