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My experience is with factory setup: 1) the hitch wiring is not "US" - see posts above; 2) the extension needed to clear the bumper (I use a 12") creates extra flex. I found if you use the 8" extension you don't have much room.

The first RR had the hitch but no trailer wiring kit (adding the kit was easy (BUT the wiring was not "US").

The third issue is the extension brings the ball out an angle. The boat shop told me that the tongue and ball need to be level (not dropped or elevated). This ensures that you don't drag on the ramp or dip.

All said and done the RR has zero problems pulling the boat even on the steepest grades/ramps. Remember RR has a short wheelbase (compared to the F-350 on the ramp next to you). Tiny adjustments have big reactions on the trailer.
Just curious, what kind/size of boat are you towing?
 

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The first boat was a 19' Ski Nautique with a 2008 RR, Second is 28' Bryant with a 2020 RR P525.
Nice! We're pulling a Supra SL with ours. Previously pulled an Axis T22 with a 2008 RR.
 

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I have a 2014 Range Rover L405 Autobiography. It has the factory tow package. Per the wiring above, I modified my Tokonsha 3035-P. I added some photos in case it's helpful to others to complete this.
1. Use a pick to push the red locking tab out. I thought I had to pry it under the housing, but I found you just have to push on it to get it to release.
2. Once the red locking tab is removed, you have to pull retaining tab towards the middle of the connector to release the wire (i.e., pull from the back). To reinsert, it helps to pull the retaining tab again until the wire is inserted and it can lock it in.
3. Replace the red locking tab.

When I first plugged it in, I found that power was going to the Prodigy P3 even with the ignition off. This isn't ideal to me. I thought that perhaps moving the white wire down to the brown position might make it switched power, but when I did this, the unit didn't operate at all (the blue screen was flickering, but the unit would not turn on even if the vehicle was started).

I have an LED test adapter plugged into the 7-point factory socket. I confirmed that the turn signals, brake and backup lights all worked correctly. However, with the adapter plugged in, I get the "NO Trailer Connection!" warning message and icon on the screen. Is this expected?

I'm towing an Airstream next week. I've towed 3 different Airstreams in the past and always used a wireless Prodigy. This time I thought I would just installed this wired P3 unit, but am unsure if it will work.

I've also attached photos of the troubleshooting voltages and current.

Questions:
1. Do you think this will work once the actual trailer is hooked up? Does the LED test adapter not have enough resistance for the Prodigy P3 to sense a trailer is connected?
2. Do I need to have the Range Rover L405 programmed at the dealership to communicate with the Prodigy P3?

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