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Discussion Starter #1
Thinking about buying a L405 RRSC. Does anyone have insite as to if the Tow Pack has a trailer brake controller or is it built into the software that you can access to adjust? Or is there not one at all as in the previous RR models? I currently have a 2006 and am using the Tekonsha wireless unit and am planning on using it, but don't want to be redundant.

Thanks in advance.
 

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I test drove a 2016 RR regular wheelbase with the tow package a few weeks ago--no built in trailer brake controller.

I ended up buying a RR without the tow package to get the other options I wanted. (Very few RRs are optioned with the tow package in my area.) I just installed the tow armature, electrics, and replacement trim pieces this afternoon. Pretty straightforward if you're a little handy and have a nice wrench set. All the parts cost ~ $1100 from my local dealer. I haggled them down from a little over $1300. A little more expensive than adding the tow package for the V6 and about the same cost as for the package on the V8 but, of course, you don't get the locking rear differential that comes with the V8 tow package.

Land Rover provides a Ford-style connector for the trailer brake controller under the dash toward the left similar to the setup on the later L322 models. (I had the same connector on my 2012.) Just need to remove three small bolts, pull the panel down, shine a flashlight up to where the brake pedal emerges from the firewall and you'll see it attached there.

Hope this helps.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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If you are going to install a brake controller, save yourself some headaches in the future by installing a circuit protector.
It will also do away with the fast flashing when using certain trailers.
Basically what it does is protect the tow rig should you get a dead short in the trailer somewhere. Mine has paid for itself already, when it blew the fuse on the module, and not the Rover.
Cheap insurance.
Something like this is what I have. Just wired a little better than what they show here.... It goes to a 7 pin RV electrical connector.
https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Tow-Ready/119192.html
Martin
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Great information. I have the Tekonsha wireless on my current 2006 and will just plan to use it, when I get my L405 instead of wiring a new one in. Hope to find a L405 with Tow Pack, but no big deal as I can install myself as Bsolberg did. Thanks for the feedback!!!
 

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Is there somewhere online with tow hitch installation instructions ?
 

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Is there somewhere online with tow hitch installation instructions ?
Not that I could find--and I looked pretty hard.

I have a copy of the LR install manual and took a lot of photos while I did my install. I'm planning to make a how-to guide. Frankly, it's a pretty easy install. Took me about 2 1/2 hours. The hardest part was figuring out how to remove the bumper cover because you need to know where all the fasteners are. All the LR instructions say (in a silly pictogram) is to remove the bumper cover. (I went on eBay and looked at used L405 bumpers for sale to figure out where the fasteners were.)
 

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I have a 2014 that I put the tow package onto. The ford connector will fit the controller connector under the dash. It is not wired the same as the ford. I had to disassemble the ford plug to rewire to keep the wire colors correct.
 

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I have a 2014 that I put the tow package onto. The ford connector will fit the controller connector under the dash. It is not wired the same as the ford. I had to disassemble the ford plug to rewire to keep the wire colors correct.
I had the same problem. Very annoying.

The Ford connection from Tekonsha comes wired like this (viewed from the wire side up, plug facing away from you as if you were sliding it into the female connector)

________________ - This is the asymmetric long end.
| X Black|
| X Red |
| Wh Blue |
_________ - short end

The L405 RR connection (viewed from the same perspective) is like this:

_________________
| Black Blue |
| Brown Purple|
| X Gr/Red|
__________

You need to rewire the Ford connection to match the RR as follows:

Blue (Trailer) = Blue (RR) [braking out to trailer brakes]; Red (Trailer) = Purple (RR) [brake application sensor]; Black (Trailer) = Green/Red (RR) [12v hot with key on]; White (Trailer) = Black (RR) [neutral]; and Brown (RR) = not used on trailer [I believe 12v always hot--not 100% sure, though]

Thus, your final rewired Ford plug will appear as follows (viewed from the same perspective as discussed above):

_______________
| X Blue |
| Wh Red |
| X Black|
_________

Hope this helps.
 

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Thanks bsolberg! You're a lifesaver! I was tearing my hair out trying to figure out the wiring for this. Slight update from what you had for the 2016 RRS TD6

_____________________ < long side
Blue X
Red White
Black X
_________
 

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I was a bit quick on this post and found I was off by one wire. Should look like this:
2016 RRS TD6

_____________________ < long side
Blue X
Red X
Black White
_________
 

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I have just completed the install of a Tekonsha Prodigy P3 trailer brake controller on my 2014 Supercharged and can confirm that the above info is mostly but perhaps not entirely correct.

On the Topix website there is a Technical Service Bulletin about this dated May 2016 covering all 2013 and up L405s and 2014 and up Sports. (I don't know if they changed the wiring to correct after May 2016 but hope so). It does not actually admit the factory LR connector under the dash is wired wrongly (which it is) but uses wishy-washy language to say the plugs may not be compatible etc. It recommends using Land Rover special tools to rewire the installed under-dash plug as follows:

_______________________
X Green/Red
Brown Violet/Brown (Purple?)
Black Blue
_____________

Since it is much easier to change the Tekonsha Ford plug as per earlier posts on this thread, according to my calculations the correct rewiring of that should be as follows:

_______________
White Blue
X Red
X Black
___________

Have yet to test it in action, but the brake controller is doing all the right things in the set-up phase without a trailer connected. Will update this when I next use the travel trailer or the livestock trailer.

Other observations so far: the Green/Red wire in the Range Rover connector seems to be a direct battery connection (I hope fused but haven't checked yet) as it stays at 12 volts all the time as far as I can tell. The brake controller knows this and goes into a power saving off mode after a while.

Will update further when I know more

Cheers

John
 

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I have just completed the install of a Tekonsha Prodigy P3 trailer brake controller on my 2014 Supercharged and can confirm that the above info is mostly but perhaps not entirely correct.

On the Topix website there is a Technical Service Bulletin about this dated May 2016 covering all 2013 and up L405s and 2014 and up Sports. (I don't know if they changed the wiring to correct after May 2016 but hope so). It does not actually admit the factory LR connector under the dash is wired wrongly (which it is) but uses wishy-washy language to say the plugs may not be compatible etc. It recommends using Land Rover special tools to rewire the installed under-dash plug as follows:

___
X Green/Red
Brown Violet/Brown (Purple?)
Black Blue
_

Since it is much easier to change the Tekonsha Ford plug as per earlier posts on this thread, according to my calculations the correct rewiring of that should be as follows:

___
White Blue
X Red
X Black
___

Have yet to test it in action, but the brake controller is doing all the right things in the set-up phase without a trailer connected. Will update this when I next use the travel trailer or the livestock trailer.

Other observations so far: the Green/Red wire in the Range Rover connector seems to be a direct battery connection (I hope fused but haven't checked yet) as it stays at 12 volts all the time as far as I can tell. The brake controller knows this and goes into a power saving off mode after a while.

Will update further when I know more

Cheers

John
 

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John, I used your advice to connect my Tekonsha controller. Wondering if you were ultimately successful. Power, Ground and Brake activation seem to work fine. I have not tested with a trailer, but I do not get any signal or continuity with the controller wire and the 7pin socket. I checked for continuity with every pin on the socket in the car and the brake pin on the 7 pin socket.
 

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I have just completed the install of a Tekonsha Prodigy P3 trailer brake controller on my 2014 Supercharged and can confirm that the above info is mostly but perhaps not entirely correct.

On the Topix website there is a Technical Service Bulletin about this dated May 2016 covering all 2013 and up L405s and 2014 and up Sports. (I don't know if they changed the wiring to correct after May 2016 but hope so). It does not actually admit the factory LR connector under the dash is wired wrongly (which it is) but uses wishy-washy language to say the plugs may not be compatible etc. It recommends using Land Rover special tools to rewire the installed under-dash plug as follows:

___
X Green/Red
Brown Violet/Brown (Purple?)
Black Blue
_

Since it is much easier to change the Tekonsha Ford plug as per earlier posts on this thread, according to my calculations the correct rewiring of that should be as follows:

___
White Blue
X Red
X Black
___

Have yet to test it in action, but the brake controller is doing all the right things in the set-up phase without a trailer connected. Will update this when I next use the travel trailer or the livestock trailer.

Other observations so far: the Green/Red wire in the Range Rover connector seems to be a direct battery connection (I hope fused but haven't checked yet) as it stays at 12 volts all the time as far as I can tell. The brake controller knows this and goes into a power saving off mode after a while.

Will update further when I know more

Cheers

John
Hi John did this wiring work? It is hard to tell because of 3 different opinions on the wiring. I will be wiring mine up tomorrow, but won’t have trailer til Thursday when I pick it up 4 hours away in a rental, I’d prefer to have it nailed down prior to checking in front of the trailer owner. Thanks!
 

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Although I'm in the same boat, picking up my trailer later this week, I'm confident that John's final Ford plug modification worked. Everything checks out. (power, brake signal and continuity with the correct pin on the 7 pin connector for the output.). FYI, I installed a Draw-Tite hitch, factory wiring plus the brake controller.
 

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Although I'm in the same boat, picking up my trailer later this week, I'm confident that John's final Ford plug modification worked. Everything checks out. (power, brake signal and continuity with the correct pin on the 7 pin connector for the output.). FYI, I installed a Draw-Tite hitch, factory wiring plus the brake controller.
Awesome, I get my Tekonsha P3 and ford plug tomorrow. I have the factory installed 7 way connector wiring and hitch for a 2016 RR sport. Will modify my Ford plug before plugging into my vehicle port.
 

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My experience is with factory setup: 1) the hitch wiring is not "US" - see posts above; 2) the extension needed to clear the bumper (I use a 12") creates extra flex. I found if you use the 8" extension you don't have much room.

The first RR had the hitch but no trailer wiring kit (adding the kit was easy (BUT the wiring was not "US").

The third issue is the extension brings the ball out an angle. The boat shop told me that the tongue and ball need to be level (not dropped or elevated). This ensures that you don't drag on the ramp or dip.

All said and done the RR has zero problems pulling the boat even on the steepest grades/ramps. Remember RR has a short wheelbase (compared to the F-350 on the ramp next to you). Tiny adjustments have big reactions on the trailer.
 
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