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Towing Electrics

2K views 11 replies 5 participants last post by  MarkinMaine 
#1 ·
Just purchased towing electrics for my 2006 range rover l-322 from LR-Direct....followed instructions and 13 pin socket doesnt seem to be powering running lights on trailer.. ( signals and brakes work fine)..Lr -Direct is giving me the run around..Faulty part?( VUH000020 kit) Improper part? They arent much help...anyone have experience with this for a 2006 range rover?? Thank you
Gusthemule
2006 l-322
Miami, Fl.
 
#3 · (Edited)
I have no special insight on your trailer harness since yours is a 2006 (Ford/Jaguar) and mine's a 2004 (BMW), and apparently the harness and connections are not necessarily the same. You have the ZF 6HP transmission, and I have the ZF 5 HP.

That said, my 2004 has towed a 5,000 lb camping trailer about 11,000 miles over the last 2 years through numerous deserts and Sierra mountains, so I have real world experience on what they're capable of, strengths and weaknesses.

Short version, if you're going to be doing any serious towing, you MUST do a transmission fluid and filter change. The 5HP24 will predictably overheat when towing up long, steep mountain grades -- the factory cooling capacity isn't really up to that extreme task, even when new. Since the 6HP trans cooler is similar to the 5HP's, I suspect it has similar limitations. The engine will run cool -- it's the transmission that's problematic.

Presumably little of this applies if you'll be towing a light trailer or only tow on flatlands and typical highway grades, as oposed to steep mountain roads. You may only see transmission "cooling mode" in those circumstances, which is no big deal. I'd change the fluid regardless. FYI, a passive drain and refill on the 5HP (as opposed to an active flush) results in only 60% new fluid, so TWO drains over time may be appropriate for towing.
 
#4 ·
FYI, for any Range Rover I'd recommend a wireless trailer brake controller such as Tekonsha's or Curt's. Allows you to bypass the dashboard electronics altogether, avoiding potential complications with connecting into the truck's electrical system, an issue with some/many Euro SUVs.
 
#5 ·
TCValencia, having been through it recently, I would add only to your most excellent post, a recommendation for all early L322 owners to change their transmission liquid-to-liquid cooler with a new OEM replacement and check the health of the water pump and radiator.

Corrosion of those coolers was a common issue on the early year models and there was actually a service bulletin for it, IIRC.

And I would recommend to every M62TU owner to run a lower temp 80 degree thermostat instead of the OEM 108 degree C one.
 
#6 · (Edited)
True dat, mjrgroup. The Robison Service website -- a larger Rover shop in Massachusetts -- basically states that the entire BMW cooling systems (engine, tranny) become suspect after 100K miles, with preventive parts replacement a good idea. Not sure if the Ford/Jag cooling systems are any more durable.

For serious mountain towing with a 5HP/6HP, I'm of the opinion there's two options: 1) Add a supplemental trans cooler, not easy but some have done it; 2) Modify nothing (after ensuring all OEM cooling components are working 100%), but change the blackened trans fluid every 10K miles, which is the hillbilly route I've chosen. So far, no breaky-breaky. :)
 
#7 ·
First off, do you have LED's on the trailer? These units won't work correctly with trailer LED's without adding resistors.
I installed the LR trailer kit on my 2009 2 years ago, and the green trailer light is on all the time. I was told that the trailer icon should only light/flash when the directionals are on (like my p38 and Classic). It does shut off the parking sensors as advertised, and all the trailer lights work correctly. It only acts weird when the trucks light switch is in the on or auto mode. Also once in a while when the directional is on I get a fast flash, like it thinks that I have a light out.
It has done this from the start. It was activated/loaded at the dealer after I installed it. I do not have LED lights on the trailer. Tried another known good trailer with same result. (ruled out poor ground on trailer)
I was approaching the 1 year mark, and needed to make the decision to send it back under warranty if needed. Someone on the forum said that there's is on all the time. Vendor (LRdirect) says they need to send it to Land Rover for testing prior to replacement. I also got the run-around from LRdirect.I needed to confirm operation as its a $300.00 plus part. In the long run I just sucked it up and kept the unit, as the cost of shipping, waiting to hear from them to only tell me there is NO defect, and not being able to tow my bikes while waiting wasn't worth it. This was one of the very,very rare times the cost savings wasn't worth shipping from UK. If I would have (choke) purchased from my dealer they would have just replaced it with no hassle.
 
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#8 ·
This is helpful..Yes led's on trailer...i know that other forums have discussed a resistor to stop a blinking issue with all lights but i dont have have that problem (or at least havent advanced to that problem yet)..before i do that...just to clarify..yes, green towing icon on full time and no running lights (light switch in "on" or "auto position") ...brakes light up, hazard lights work, left signal blink, right signal "fast blink" as you noted...Were all your lights at least powering up before you realized you needed a resistor??.. i am debating changing my trailer lights to bulbs as an alternative..It's interesting that LRdirect keeps selling this product without any knowledge of whether it's a faulty product or requires modifications...Makes me think this product is garbage if they dont have solutions to what sounds like a common issue..
 
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