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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

Can I tow a classic using a towbar, having all 4 wheels still on the ground, providing I put the transfer case in neutral? Or do I have to disconnect the driveshafts?
I might buy another one and it doesn't run right now.

Thanks
dave
 

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Is it an auto or manual transmission?

If it's an auto, you'll certainly need to stick it in neutral and then add some fluid to the tranny. Landrover say that it should be towed slowly and only for short distances. I would have thought that a manual transmission would be OK with everything in neutral.

If you're going any distance, I'd stick it on a trailer as you'd be towing something weighing 2 tons and no vacuum assistance on the brakes if the engine's not running
 

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I've moved a few 4wd/awd trucks (no rovers yet, but I'm still hoping!) in the past and always used a tow dolly (local uhaul gets 15/day for one). Usually just drive it onto the dolly, strap it in, and disconnect the rear driveshaft from the differential, and tie the driveshaft up out of the way with a couple cable ties. Usually 4 bolts and its out. Whole lot easier to turn tight and a lot easier on tires than flat towing.

Obviously if its not running it may be a chore to get it onto the dolly, maybe get it rolling with some strong guys pushing. Or figure out a way to winch it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies. It is an automatic. I assumed by putting the transfer case in neutral it effectively keeps the transmission from turning at all. My main concern was with the transfer case and the center diff (its a 94 viscous, not manual like my 1988). I do have access to a tow dolly, and it may not weigh much but it does add something to the overall towed weight. I may have to borrow bigger truck to tow it with anyway.

thanks dave
 

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Now first of all I admit I am new to the concept of full time four wheel drive coming from a series Land Rover background but the very worst thing you can do with them when towing is to put the transfer into neutral, gear selector yes, transfer NO. The reason for this is that it effectively locks the centre dif, yes locks it. On series it is used for making the braking system apply to all four wheels when winching, basically it locks them all together so the four wheels hold not just the rear two. I personally witnessed the result of someone who had towed at 50MPH for 1/2 mile before hearing the BIG bang. Blew the transfer and front prop, which came through the driver’s floor. A hole worthy of Fred Flintstone.

So before you tow check the handbook and do what it says.

:pray:
 

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TehPriest said:
Now first of all I admit I am new to the concept of full time four wheel drive coming from a series Land Rover background but the very worst thing you can do with them when towing is to put the transfer into neutral, gear selector yes, transfer NO. The reason for this is that it effectively locks the centre dif, yes locks it.
I don't think that applies here - the Range Rover with a BW Viscous is a totally different beast. The centre diff will lock up automatically through the viscous regardless of the selector position. However, the resultant bang will be the same.
 

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I would just undo the eight bolts to be on the safe side...
 

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Put the trasnfercase in Neutral. If you can push it by hand, then you are good to go. just put in all in neutral before you do. The axels and drive shafts will still turn but, they do that when your drive it. I think some are confused what a VC does or a center diff lock actually does. Neutral and a diff lock are two seperate things. Putting a transfer case in N means it is not engaged with the transmission. A center diff lock is to make sure the front and rear drive shaft are turning at the same speed (locks the front and rear axel in unison, more traction in offroad situations). A VC is a unit that does that same locking/unlocking action automatically so you can go on/off road with out having to do anything. NEVER run a manual diff lock in the lock position on pavement. it will break u-joint, cv's, drive shafts, ect. Like I said earlier, if you can the transfer case in N and it will roll with a push your fine. if it doesn the just take the drive shafts off the axels and use a coat hanger to secure them under the truck somewhere (or remove them completely if you aren't as lazy as me). Just make sure the key is one click on to let the steering wheel turn. Other wise the wheels won't turn when you do. keep it at 55 or less preferably.
 

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Unless it's registered you will have to trailer it, even on a two wheeled dolly it has to be registered.

Where in NH are you?

Regards

Mac
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hi Gagamac.
I'm in Pittsfield, "The Gem of the Suncook Valley" .
I prefer to say that I'm in the foothills of the White Mountains, but I think that makes Pittsfield the space between the two biggest toes.

and oh yeah, after all this talk I'm probably not going to buy that truck anyway. It was up in Maine about 150 miles. All i really wanted was the engine. It's just not worth it for me. I'm hoping to get into P38 someday. I'll save my pennies for that.

thanks
dave
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Gagamac, I see alot of people from Hampstead at SNHLR.Org

Are you one of them? ( I haven't joined, yet but will someday)

dave
 

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For what it's worth, a few years ago, I met a guy who was flat towing a VC-equipped RRC behind a motorhome, from Seattle to Mexico! He had been doing this for a while and hadn't blown anything up, yet. I was amazed!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Granny, that's good to know and I always like Rover photos!


thanks
dave
 
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