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Discussion Starter #1
After scouring the internet for wheels and tires and many other things for rovers. I have decided that the easiest thing to do is a total conversion. I figure dual Dana 60's (I have a pair from a Ford one ton). I can cut the necessarily brackets off the rover axles and weld them to the Dana assemblies. I realize that I now have a center instead of a driver offset rear diff. I was going to remedy this problem with a vortec 5300, 4l60 and an NP241 Drivers side drop t-case. The engine transmission and t case run about $1500 with ecu and wiring harness from a salvaged 99-2002 chevy truck with less than 100k. I wanted this setup because I know the vortec 5300, 4l60,241 are reliable affordable assemblies that almost any shop can work on. I have spoke to current performance and they can reprogram the the ecu to accept only the necessary hardware i will be using and also calibrate the shift points on the 4l60. I figure the engine tranny and t case will be no problem to mount in the rover, the axle assemblies will be easy too. Once the fuel tank is dropped and a fuel cell is fitted I can run a custom drive shaft back to the real axle and a custom one to the front. I have talked to dakota digital about signal converters and it looks like I will be able to keep my rover instrument panel. Additionally, I will also be able to keep a GM OBD 2 port to read engine fault codes. I have estimated this project will cost around 5 or 6k since I already have the axle assemblies. I was wondering if I had left anything out on this conversion?
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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I think from a high level you've got everything covered. Once you break each issue down you'll find things you left out, but that's the fun part isn't it?

If you do move forward with the project, make sure to keep us updated!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I think the fun part will be off roading in a bullet proof p38! Ill try to keep a good record of things if and when I start this project if there is a high level on interest for it.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I noticed "from a ford one ton" the p38 is 2.2 tons (english) what makes you think they'll be any better than whats on the P38
or for that matter the rest of the conversion like engine etc, is it for more power or is it parts sourcing related.
 

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viperover said:
I noticed "from a ford one ton" the p38 is 2.2 tons (english) what makes you think they'll be any better than whats on the P38
or for that matter the rest of the conversion like engine etc, is it for more power or is it parts sourcing related.

The "1-ton" designation is a Payload category. A "1-ton" truck has a roughly 5000 lb payload specification, while a "1/2-ton" truck is more like 1400-3000 lb.

The P38 Range Rover has specs of (from the main site):

Payload 1,400 lbs (1995), 1160 lbs (2001)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The big difference in axle sizes is ring gear size and axle size and spline count. The Dana 60 front axle is used in large truck applications. It is a 9.75 inch ring gear with 35 spline 1.5 inch axles. This is way larger than the range rover (the rover axle specs are currently slipping my mind). My thoughts are this, if this is the assembly than Ford, Dodge and Chevy (before their IFS switch) use in high torque diesel (+500 ft/lbs crank) applications, then it should be bulletproof. Any yes one ton is more of a localized American usage. Full size trucks come in 1/2, 3/4 and one ton configurations. The running gear on a half-ton truck is much stronger (larger ring gears, thicker axle tubes and larger diameter axle shafts) than stock rover running gear. I was using the one ton setup because I have one available to me and I could run very large tires with no drive train problems if I wanted to in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The conversion is for ease of parts, improved reliability and performance. I have seen numerous vortec 5300 engines in oilfield trucks go 200-300k with no problems. Same goes for the 4l60.GM may of went bankrupt, but it was due to mismanagement rather then shoddy vehicle construction!
 

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I just got the van as noted below so I'm really happy to hear that it has some life left in with over 140k miles on the clock now. I heard from the po that the transfer case was changed at 50k miles and it had the intake manifold gasket done also. I have to say that I really love the awd and the way it works in the van. With the existing gearing [3.43 or 3.71?] it pulls like crazy at low speeds. Perhaps not as refined as rangie in some respects but the ifs with torsion bars and steering rack in a van really improves the overal feel of the vehicle. I assume your plan would run a solid front axle. Do you work in the oilpatch? I worked in the oilpatch in Alberta in '73 and the rig car for our crew was a '63 chev with a 6 cyl. engine. Hope you can keep this project alive.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah Im a geologist. Im currently just shopping around to get an idea about the cost. I need to find a nice p38 with a blown motor that I can use for a project car. My p38 is in pretty good shape (fingers crossed). Ive seen so many Z71s, Tahoes and Suburbans for sale at auctions with 250k miles on them at auto auctions that appear to run strong (good oil pressure upon start and warm up). Id prefer a np205 t-case, but finding a driver-side drop 205 that will mate to a 4l60 is somewhat troublesome and I dont want to get a ford t-case and mill it out to take a chevy input. I thought about a divorce mount 205, but I was worried about rear driveline angle issues. My ultimate goal is to create a rangie that can be able to handle 35's without any powertrain breakage issues.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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35's will need a huge lift to clear the wheel wells...or a lot of hacking the body.

BTW...there's a pool going for the first person to successfully get a SBC to run in a P38 with all the stock instrumentation working...I think it's up to a couple hundred or so.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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With a fuel cell it would be easy enough to change the driveline.
And if a pair of 60's cant handle 35's you are an animal :lol:
If you are going to regear and put a good locker in it anyway, have a look at Jeep JK Rubicon axles. They are 4.10 geared and have electronic lockers. I run them in my XJ and they are holding up great with 37's. I did add Chromo shafts and CTM u joints, as I got a killer deal on them. But never had any breakage with the stock stuff.
I have had very good luck with the 231c hd's and 241c transfer cases. Both can be had in drivers side drop variety. The 231c hd's can be found under S10's etc and will handle 35's with ease. They have the wider case and a 6 planetary gearset.
Another option if you have the coin would be a used Atlas/Stak case. Both can be had used on Pirate4x4.com with the required 27 spline input. You will need an adapter to get the Atlas clocked right though. I tried without the adapter on my last wheeling rig, and it didnt sit well with the 700r4 I had.
A few of us have been looking at a LSX etc swap, but the fuel tank is the stumbling block for those of us that want to keep it. Only other transfer case option for us would be a Dana 18 flipped (offset rear output to the pass side on a Jeep). I have a Dana 300 in my shop, but I dont think the short length of even that would work with the stock fuel tank. :crybaby2:
I did contemplate a fuel cell in the spare tire location, then make one of my bumpers with a tire carrier on it to carry the spare. Getting into the realm of too much hassle for the gain though.

Martin
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well I figure 35's will fit with a few inches of lift, wider axles and some considerable trimming. The 60s i have are 4.10s already. The only thing It needs is a Detroit locker in the rear and some 35 spline shafts. The front has already been "Lincoln" locked. I want all this done right, but I dont plan to spend like 20 grand on it or anything.
 

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Tim (Scotland) said:
Jsmooth65 said:
A "1-ton" truck has a roughly 5000 lb payload specification, while a "1/2-ton" truck is more like 1400-3000 lb.
Shouldn't that make it a 2 ton?
That's not how it works.

The ratings are from the old days when the model number, F-150, C-2500, 1500, denoted the safe bed weight capacity for a specific model. 150 & 1500 specified the 1/2 ton trucks. 250 and 2500 were for the 3/4 ton trucks. 350 and 3500 for 1 ton trucks.

Today we have larger more capable vehicles that make the old numbering system obsolete. The fact that it still exists may be due to the Big 3 wanting to maintain a product line for several decades.

The heavier a truck is rated the more likely it is to be classified commercial and taxes, road use fees, and other financial burdens will be added to the operational costs of the vehicle.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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ldoyel said:
Well I figure 35's will fit with a few inches of lift, wider axles and some considerable trimming. The 60s i have are 4.10s already. The only thing It needs is a Detroit locker in the rear and some 35 spline shafts. The front has already been "Lincoln" locked. I want all this done right, but I dont plan to spend like 20 grand on it or anything.
Are you going to drive this on the road with a welded front 60???
Been there and done that, and it was horrendous!
I would strongly suggest a hydro assist setup too, it helped my junk tremendously.
If you want to keep the wms to wms within a reasonable amount, H2 wheels tuck the tires in nicely :thumb:

Martin
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well I don't ever plan to drive it with the hubs locked in in the road, so I can disconnect the spool on the road. I know I dropped a rear driveshaft on a 4x4 and have to drive 40 miles home with a front spool and it was horrendous, however off road, nothing can beat it.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Well any real locker will be just as good ie: ARB, OX, E locker, etc etc etc. They all do the same thing as a spool/welded spider gears.
For a budget though, the spool is the way to go so long as you can steer it!

Martin
 

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Discussion Starter #18
For the rear 60 I was going to do an ARB seeing as thing vehicle would be spending some time on pavement. I like detroit lockers, but I find the sounds they make to be a little too gnarly.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Can always tell a rig with Detroits, thats for sure :lol:
Used 60 ARB's come up for sale pretty often on Pirate, so I would check there for sure before breaking out the welder and brake cleaner :thumb:
 
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