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Discussion Starter #1
I've now got my p38 on the drive, and have spent a couple of hours playing with it and many hours reading up about it on the internet, and on the RAVE disc.

As I posted before I've bought this Range Rover with problems.

Looking at the documentation the Range Rover was taken off the road nearly a year ago when one of the coolant pipes burst and the vehicle overheated.

The car was recovered back, the PO didn't know much about cars so a friend came to have a quick look. They started the car for just a few seconds to check the compression, they did this for the front two cylinders (which they said were low - no idea how low - no idea what they should be), After doing the front two cyclinders they it would no longer start up - it turned over but wouldn't actually fire.

At this point they took the head off on the offside, to have a look for damage. His friend then told him it must be the piston rings letting compression past (no idea how he came to that conclusion). It has then sat there like that for nearly a year.

I now have it like that. The head, rocker cover, manifold valley cover, alternator etc is all in the boot.

I don't have the old head gasket to examine.

I've now had a proper look over the parts as best as I can to the best of my knowledge.

The liners all look fine and don't look to have slipped at all.

The pistons all look fine but the front one is cleaner than the others.

The head looks ok, checked for warping and it doesn't look to have warped out of tolerance, but would like to check it over a bit better. It looks like it was blowing between the two middle cylinders. The only other problem is that with head being off the vehicle for months the PO has managed to scratch a small section of the head surface.

We put a 24mm socket on the front nut and turned it a little with a breaker bar the pistons moved up and down freely - didn't move it far as the other head is still on. - Just moved it back and forth a little.




I'm just not sure where to go from here.

My thoughts at the moment are to do one of the following options:

Option 1:

Get a cheap composite head gasket @£10, and put it back together using the old bolts and gaskets as a temporary measure so that I can test the compression and see if it's got sparks and fuel and to help the diagnosis a little. If it runs and compression seems OK then strip down and put both sides back together with new bolts, and new gaskets and seals all round @£60

Option 2:

Get the full gasket and seal and bolt set @£60, build the one side up with the new bits - test as above and then build up the other side?

Option 3:

Strip the other side off then rebuild with kit @60 and cross my fingers


Not sure if I should get the head skimmed to get rid of the scratch? If I skim one head should I do both so they match? Or is the amount so small that it wouldn't matter?

Not sure but I think the gaskets that were on were composite as there was a bit of black left on the block.


Is there anything else I should check whilst the head is off. Would pictures help? If so please say what to take pictures of.

Thanks in advance
 

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option 1 - NO!

option 2 - not ideal, if you're into short-cuts this sounds like one, but it's the long way.

option 3 - yes. 90% of the work to pull the head is done, pull the other side and inspect. Yes, have them skimmed. It's been overheated so do it. Have the shop check the vales as well, may be time for a full valve job. actually, you've got the heads in the shop, have the valves done.

buy GOOD gaskets from a reputable supplier, and use the ARP stud kit (buick 215/rover 3.9/4.2 V8 listing). since it's apart, put all new hoses and serpentine belt on as well.
 

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I agree with shupack. You've gone to the trouble of taking the engine 3/4 of the way apart, might as well do it right so you won't have to do it again in the near future.
 

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A important over heating tip on these blocks would be to check the knock sensors, one on each side of block.
If they show any signs of melting then the block is de stressed and is scrap.
This is info given to me by a good engineering shop where I sent in a block for liners and are highly regarded as tops in the industry here in our Gold city
 

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Discussion Starter #7
viperover said:
A important over heating tip on these blocks would be to check the knock sensors, one on each side of block.
If they show any signs of melting then the block is de stressed and is scrap.
This is info given to me by a good engineering shop where I sent in a block for liners and are highly regarded as tops in the industry here in our Gold city
Thanks for the tip - I'll check them out :thumb:
 

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I would go this route:

- Have both heads pressure tested, skimmed and have the valves done, also change the valve oil seals.
- Use ARP head studs as they allow you to re-use them if it turns out you have a slipped-liner problem after all and you need to fit a new engine afterwards (and use the special ARP lube).
- Use the best gaskets (elring is original)
- Don't forget to check wear on your tappets and set your tappet pre-load with a special shim kit (your heads are skimmed so you will have to compensate for the skimmed-off material in order to maintain the same preload figures)
- Have your radiator and waterpump checked and change the thermostat while at it.

You are in England so do a google search for RPi, they can help you with all parts you need and advice.
Also their website has lots of interesting info and reading.
Good luck!
Alex
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the advice,

I've got a brand new radiator to go, it came with it on the back seat so I presume the bloke was going to change that. The old one does look a little knackered at the bottom.

New thermostat will go on.

I'm just not sure if a head skim is required - I've had different advice on here. Some people say skim it no matter, wheras some people say only skim if it needs it and it's better not to skim. Some people say you don't need to compensate with anything due to composite hg's being thicker than standard - then I've read that the 4.6's left the factory with composite gaskets.

I've only checked the one head so far and it doesn't seem to be at all warped - checked diagonally with a straight edge and feeler guages
 

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shupack said:
and use the ARP stud kit (buick 215/rover 3.9/4.2 V8 listing).
Hey Shupack, do you have a part number for that stud kit? I have found a couple of Buick 215 options. The most likely seems to be the ARP 124-4003 but would like to confirm.
 
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