[skucera]

I'm changing my timing cover gasket because I have a coolant leak that bubbles up from the top of it. I've got my belts off, but had no luck turning the front crankshaft nut loose with the starter and a breaker bar. The breaker bar just flew off with the least vibration as the crank started turning. Oh well. So, next weekend I'll be taking the access cover off the bottom of the bell housing to reach the flywheel teeth. What sort of tool should I plan on having or making to stop the crankshaft? If you've done it, what did you do to stop the crankshaft?

Also, it seems to me that the RAVE manual omits a task or two about this job. There is no instruction to drain the crankcase oil, but it seems to me that the timing cover should be full of oil. Am I going to make a nasty oil puddle if I unscrew this thing without having drained the oil? I hate cleaning up messes; I'm lazy that way.

Thank you for any advice you may have.

Scott

 

[RRToadHall]

I used a strap wrench to hold the flywheel pully in place and a socket to remove it's bolt. ON the first attempt the pully wanted to slip so I used an old inner tube piece on the pully with the strap wrench and the bolt came right loose.

 

[skucera]

Hmmm... that sounds nice and direct. I'll have to get a bigger strap wrench. The bigger one of my two will only go around a pulley about four inches across. I've certainly got old bike inner tubes around. I'll look into that. Thanks for the idea.

Scott

 

[skucera]

I finally made time to get that cover off. (I used a small file to hold the flywheel teeth still against the transmission case. I just couldn't find a strap wrench that was big enough, or that had enough purchase.) Some previous owner had that timing cover off, damaged the gasket, tried to bodge it with RTV sealer. The crack in the gasket allowed coolant to bubble up through it. The PO also lost a couple of bolts, and replaced one with a stud and nut. Duh.

Now I've got what looks like a fairly straightforward clean-up job. Also, the crankshaft seal I got with my gasket is much simpler than the double-row seal originally on the timing cover. I'm going to leave that one on when I put everything back together tomorrow.

Scott

 

[skucera]

Re: Crank nut torque question

I've got a torque question for you folks that have put the pulley nut back on. My flex plate teeth are shearing the little file right in half that I've been using to stop my crank from turning while I try to torque it. I've sheared two 3/4" sections off of it now, and there isn't much point in going further.

What did you use to hold the crank still while torquing the nut to 200 lb. ft. (~280 N.m.)? I feel like I'm getting about 150 lb. ft. on the torque wrench just as the little file shears with a ping and a clatter.

Scott

 

[RRToadHall]

Same answer as above, strap wrench with a hunk of rubber to stop slipping. :thumb:

 

[skucera]

Toad Hall, can you do me a favor? What manufacturer and part number are your strap wrench? Whatever you've got, I want to try it. I may not have what you own in local stores, but I bet I can find it on the internet. ray:

Thanks,
Scott

 

[RRToadHall]

No clue, it's most likely pretty close to as old as I am. I do know it is Snap On. Other than that I am pretty clueless.

 

[p76rangie]

Re: Crank nut torque question

I've got a torque question for you folks that have put the pulley nut back on. My flex plate teeth are shearing the little file right in half that I've been using to stop my crank from turning while I try to torque it. I've sheared two 3/4" sections off of it now, and there isn't much point in going further.

What did you use to hold the crank still while torquing the nut to 200 lb. ft. (~280 N.m.)? I feel like I'm getting about 150 lb. ft. on the torque wrench just as the little file shears with a ping and a clatter.

Scott

I have never been able to get the thing to 200 ft lb. Just physically couldn't put enough effort on the torque wrench to get it that far. These days I just put locktite on it and do it up as tight as I can.

 

[skucera]

Re: Crank nut torque question

I have never been able to get the thing to 200 ft lb. Just physically couldn't put enough effort on the torque wrench to get it that far. These days I just put locktite on it and do it up as tight as I can.

I'm thinking Loctite is a pretty attractive solution.

Oh, my strap wrench is the same Blue Point model sold by my local Snap-On guy. He said that Snap-On doesn't actually make strap wrenches under their own name, but they've sold under the Blue Point name for years. C'est la vie.

My big torque wrench is more than a meter long, so 200 ft. lbs. is no great effort. My BMW specifies 300 ft. lbs. for its front crank nut, and I'm beginning to dread that repair. I'm planning to start that as soon as I get the Rover out of the garage, which won't be tonight because I'm just too bushed after a day of work.

Scott