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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,101 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Not a MkIII, but the same Jag 5.0. 2010 LR4 I picked up for a buddy of mine, $4500!
It's "noisy" up front, so will just go ahead and do the full set. It had supposedly had them all done in '15 (same owners since '11), but I'm guessing they used the plastic pins still, instead of aluminum. Cost them $5500.....ouch, lot of coin for it to sound like a diesel....
I was going to check the chain, then maybe just do the guides etc, but can't find an accurate way to check it!
Would save a load of time, plus all the specialist tools.
No CEL on, runs great, just noisy. Hooked up the GAP tool from the wife's '11SC, and no untoward readings.

Thoughts on the guides? Any way to tell you're getting the new style guides etc?
Will try to take pics and give any hints. Lots of threads, but few "complete" ones.

Cheers
 

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Premium Member
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1,083 Posts
Just speculation here, but could it be the cam phaser sound?

My guess is they did not do it for $5500, my Sport back in maybe 2014 had guides, tensioners, chain, and four cam phasers done for ~$8,000. I ended up selling it to my good friend and I still see it every so often, and it sounds like it should. It must have over 160k miles on it, I sold it at around 130k



Main issue are not the guides anymore, it is the tensioners. Big issue is no one does short oil intervals, which these oil pressure dependent (cam phasers, hydaulic tensioners, etc..) must have.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,101 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Not sure what bad cam phasers would sound like, so ........
Could well have been the case though. And at @$1300 for the 4, it would make sense
 

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Make sure to do the cam phasers as suggested,
my dealer told me they have done a few without them , after the job they sounded as noisy as when they came in,
and had to take the whole thing apart again.

I have seen a few Videos pointing out the same thing where someone took it in to have the guides, chains, and tensioners done and it still sounded like a diesel, since they didnt do the phasers.


NOTE I have had them do the chains the guides the tensioners and the phasers, at 105K,
when I got it back it was like a new truck, the only problems after this was a having to add a set of injectors to my 2468 bank.
This was making the engine run rough now its pretty smooth.

Long oil change intervals kill these parts
I suggest every 5 k or less oil and filter changes
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,101 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
There is a slight metallic knocking noise, which I first thought was a bad pulley bearing. Removed the belt, still the same. Thinking maybe a stretched chain? I wont get parts until I get home next time, but could pull the front cover to check it all out I guess? Any hardship in doing that, then removing the stuff to do the whole chain job if need be?
 

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with the phasers you cant see anything wrong since the wear occurs inside the units and they wont hold oil pressure so they rattle
2 intake 2 exhaust
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,101 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thanks Stan
I'm starting to think the rattle/diesel noise may well be them then.
If I just do the guides and tensioners, then the phasers, it would save him some coin by not having to do the whole shebang? Or is doing those as involved as the whole timing deal?
Maybe worth pulling the front off to investigate before spending any money
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,101 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
The plastic guides are just sliding in the aluminum. I got a video but it won't post from my fone.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
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705 Posts
Thats interesting. The plastic part of the guide does come off very easily but it should be kept in place by the direction of rotation of the motor. I wonder if those guides have been changed? If you dont take care when inserting the guide on the right of the photo (left hand guide) the plastic may have been dislodged.

The 2 photos show the different guides and tensioners. Apart from the steel insert on the new guide, the plunger on the tensioner is wider.

20190509_110530 (Medium).jpg

20190509_110600 (Medium).jpg
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,101 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I saw pictures of the new ones, which looked like the ones you posted. I'm guessing the clips get removed at installation? There are no "side pieces" on the plastic guides in this thing.
As a side note, anyone know the best place to get the whole shebang? Seen the tools for sale on Amazon etc, but there seems to be a LOT of choices for the timing set.
I tried getting with an AB vendor, twice by email and a fone call yesterday, but still no prices back from them.
 

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224 Posts
The circular detent on the rear of the guide indicates that it is the later type of guide.

The chain tensioner clips don't get pulled until everything is back in place and the timing marks on the chain and the guides are aligned.

As someone noted, extended oil changes are mostly responsible for VVT noise.

It's not unusual for the oil ways to gum up after several years' use with extended oil changes.

If you want to try and save a few bucks you could put it all back together and use a flushing agent (or a substituted quart of ATF and seven quarts of 5-20 engine oil) for 500 miles or so then do another oil and filter change.

Alternatively, replace the VVT's now while it's apart.

I believe Atlantic British just announced a timing set for the 5.0

https://www.roverparts.com/Parts/TCK5030

Your budget, your choice.

Rob
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,101 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
While removing stuff yesterday, noticed some zip ties holding a coolant fitting together!
It's the Y piece that connects to the throttle body heater and the push fitting to the water pump.
It connects to LR013687 hose.
I cant find the hose, but found it on a Jag forum, AJ812141 is an old part number.
LR part number anyone?
Also having a hard time finding the part number for the front pulley bolt. Mine is grade 12.9 right hand thread.

Thing isnt that old ffs! I have easier times finding parts for my Lsx powered P38 rofl
 

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The black plastic clips on the side of plastic slide never get removed, those provide tension to hold the plastic part to the metal tensioner arm so the slide doesn't move around on the arm. If someone snapped those clips off, then you need new ones.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,101 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Cheers Mark.
I'm ripping it apart as we speak. Found an ignition coil that was held together with insulation tape after the idiots lost the hold down bolt..... Love getting into something where a supposed great mechanic has been before. Idiots
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,101 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Here is the offending hose
They had it zip tied together.... Ugh
 

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Premium Member
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1,083 Posts
Call Lucky 8 Offroad and ask to speak to Erik, tell them you have questions about parts on the 5.0, and order the parts through them.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,101 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Call Lucky 8 Offroad and ask to speak to Erik, tell them you have questions about parts on the 5.0, and order the parts through them.

Didn't know they did internal engine stuff.
Looks like Will Tillery, who I normally use for big orders, isn't interested. Emailed last week, called Thursday AM and spoke to a girl there. Resent the email, then got a reply Thursday saying he'd have the quote finished by the following morning.....Then nothing.
Anyone have a good recommendation for all the timing components, the cam phasers, etc?
It's outside now, had to get the ydro assist steering on the Disco. That will turn the 37's!

Cheers
Martin
 
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