[Chas]

I wonder if that ball joint seized due to rust before breaking?
Along with the others, I don't recall reading of one breaking before now, and I've been reading about 38A's for the last 10 years.
Do you know if the car has any accident history, either while with you or previously?
It would be useful of you could quickly look at the broken surface. Is it a uniform colour all the way across, or is part of it bright silver, and part darker? This would indicate a crack existing before it snapped.

BTW, parts from rust free California may be OK, but the usual snag with this assembly is that the adjuster is assembled without grease and the threads rust. It then becomes a real fight to free off the adjuster to compensate for the new ball joint.
For this reason it is usual in the UK to change the complete assembly anyway, especially if you are paying for someone's time to free the adjuster assembly.
Note that it's the 'other' ball joint that is expensive, as it is crimped into the tube, so replacing that ball joint means you are buying most of the drag link anyway.

Good Luck

 

[Chas]

John, I think you are correct, thanks for stepping up.
In the first picture it looks as though there is a stub of pipe sticking out to one side, above the ball, and I took this to be part of the drag link. But that analysis doesn't tie in with the second picture, which shows there is no tube at that point, just the solid adjuster. The second picture also shows the socket half of the joint.

So, the problem was that the joint was well past it's change before date, and it will be a very wise precaution to change the complete drag link, and the complete tie rod, if the joints on that are in a similar state.

Regards

 

[Chas]

I am pretty much set on replacing the whole thing now or in the close future, but I am still wondering if I can use a generic tie rod end with the same width/thread as the broken one?

Obviously you need one the same size and thread, but if you find one that isn't Land Rover then it will probably be OK.
BUT, this is an import, where were you thinking of finding one from?

Also, I had a slight shimmer/shake at highway speeds that might have loosened it :/ but do you think it being loose in the first place could have caused it to seperate?

Play in the ball joint, and in the other drag link / tie rod ball joints would have given you a shimmy. The play would also have allowed the steering wheel to kick when you hit a pothole. The shimmy wasn't the cause of the joint separating, the shimmy was the warning which told you that 'something' needed attention. Through inexperience, you ignored the warning.

If so does anyone have any suggestions about getting a wheel balance or alignment or anything after I get it connected?

In my opinion, wheel balancing and alignment are always worthwhile, but as to where is good for doing a Land Rover, you need input from locals.

I am a poor college student so remember that I need the bare min to get me from point a to point b....somewhat safely

They only advice there is to buy a vehicle more suited to your means, not a 10 year old high end import which only gets cheaper to buy, never cheaper to maintain.

HTH

 

[Chas]

Use a splitter configured like this
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=99849
You may be able to find better quality items, I was mainly after the picture.

Do not (in my opinion) use a splitter configured like this
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=38649

Before using the scissor action splitter ensure the threads are well lubricated, preferably with the sort of gear oil that goes in the axles, otherwise use engine oil.
In the situation in your photo the splitter will appear to be upside down. The single 'finger' goes on the top, where you have been hitting it with your hammer. The two fingers go underneath the arm the joint is stuck in, either side of the stem.
Adjust the pivot screw to the best position (which makes the single finger as flat as possible across the end of the threaded section of the joint).
Make sure the fingers go across as far as possible, and that the single finger completely covers the threaded end. Ensure it's fully home with a few light taps on the base of the forked part with a solid hammer, about 2lb or more.
If you were trying to re-use the joint you would loosen the securing nut (that you have removed completely), but would unscrew it to the end so that the joint thread was protected from damage.
In this case it doesn't matter, and you probably can't screw the nut back on anyway.
Then tighten the forcing screw on the splitter.
Be aware that considerable force will be required when tightening the forcing screw, and when the joint releases there will be a LOUD bang.

HTH