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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So the subject says it all, I was driving out of a parking garage and snapp....BRAKE....screech..... no more steering :(

Looked under the car and a tie rod just snapped. It was odd because it didn't look to be in bad condition.

Anyway, I have replaced a tie rod on a nissan sentra before, and it was pretty easy, and it looks like this one will be easy as well.

I have a 98' american RR se, and the tie rod that snapped was the drivers side. Does anyone know the part I need, the auto parts store kept asking if I needed inner or outter or the whole assembly etc......

I couldnt find any repair/part details anywhere, so if someone could direct me to that or let me know the steps in a reply that would be great.

I remember the last time I did the repair I had to count how many times I turned the old part to get it off and screw the new part the same amount of times.

I am wondering about the steering wheel and alignment. Since it snapped, the steering wheel is able to turn all the way left/right and before I realized I had no steering I turned it back and fourth and have no idea where the original position was......is there a way to make sure that gets somewhat aligned when I install the new tie rod?

Thanks!
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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You would be better off posting a foto of which one snapped. I have a spare at home but am unsure of which one you need!
The tie rod is normally the whole link that connects the 2 sides together, a tie rod end is what goes into the knuckle.
Martin
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Here are some pics of the thing tie rod end* that snapped. On my american RR, it is on the drivers side and it is basically the closest rod assembly to the front end of the truck.

I dont know how to explain it better and the pics kind of suck. I just know that the rod assemble begins on the passenger side (which is still connected) and a shock extend from the passenger side and meets with the rod assembly in the middle, and then the drivers side of the rod end snapped.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Ok, looks like the drag link to me.
That is the tie rod that connects the drag link to the pitman arm from the looks of it. The tie rod is behind the front axle, and connect both sides together. The draglink connect the pitman arm on the steering box, to the passenger side knuckle.
IF the parts store has them, tell them it is the tie rod end that goes to the pitman arm.
To be honest, I would HIGHLY recommend changing all of them myself. You can get a complete drag link assembly:
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/QHG000070.cfm
when I had 1 loose tie rod end, I replaced them all myself. Not something you want to go out on you at 70mph huh?
Best of luck, and keep us posted.
Martin
 
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You can replace just the short end, part #QFS000010, it's $30 at Atlantic British. I would check the ball joint on the other end carefully and consider replacing the entire drag link if it even looks a bit worn to prevent the same thing happening on the other side. The complete drag link is part #QHG000070 from AB, its $140.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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WOW, I have never seen that before, i'm really glad you were not doing 70mph as Martin said.

Scotty
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Max said:
You can replace just the short end, part #QFS000010, it's $30 at Atlantic British. I would check the ball joint on the other end carefully and consider replacing the entire drag link if it even looks a bit worn to prevent the same thing happening on the other side. The complete drag link is part #QHG000070 from AB, its $140.
Max, you mean the part I posted a link to mate? That draglink? :lol:
OP
I would honestly just go ahead and replace everything on there myself. If that was bad enough to snap, the rest wont be far behind.....not to mention, holy rust Batman! I think mine stay rust free from dripping bodily fluids all over itself, but hey it works! :thumb:

Martin
 

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NICE! :lol:
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Mind, I bet there is some parts guy in California that could hook a brutha up with a low mileage complete tie rod AND drag link for about the same price as just the drag link................. 8)
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
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Now that you mention it, I might know a guy who could do that! I know the parts are available.

JUST SAYIN

Scotty
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Scotty said:
Now that you mention it, I might know a guy who could do that! I know the parts are available.

JUST SAYIN

Scotty
OP, There is the offer mate!
Scotty can get good RUST FREE parts from Southern California that will save you some coin! :thumb:

Martin
 

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As Martin says...

Scotty
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for the info. So far, none of the auto parts stores around here (autozone, napa, advance auto parts, pep boys) have, or even have the ability to order the part. Im kind of interested in getting it fixed asap, so does anyone know of a part that I can use that may be used on another vehicle? I have already used a fuel pump from a GM or something if I remember right. To me, a tie rod seems to be a standard thing, but of course LR has to do their own thing.

I got kind of lost in the replies, but it looks like one of you may have a spare drag link (full assembly) available? If no one has another suggestion for getting it locally, then I would much appreciate it if I could snag a good deal on that part. I live in indiana, so shipping might be a bummer, but scotty, if im not too confused on who might have the assembly, what is the best way to get in reach with you to discuss getting that thing my way.

Also, does anyone know about the second problem I have with aligning the steering wheel when I do replace at least the one tie rod?
 

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Hi

I have a spare track rod end from Allmakes 4x4 it has as pat number QFS000010 and this is the LR partnumber according to the note on the label.

To align your wheels: Put the wheels straight ahead before connecting up and the wheel in the center position. You can adjust this by turning max left followed by max right and find the center position in the middle of these two max positions.
After this connect up and you will not be far off. It is possible to disconnect at the steering box and adjust there as well. Any tire shop should be familiar with this.

Regards

Jos
 

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I wonder if that ball joint seized due to rust before breaking?
Along with the others, I don't recall reading of one breaking before now, and I've been reading about 38A's for the last 10 years.
Do you know if the car has any accident history, either while with you or previously?
It would be useful of you could quickly look at the broken surface. Is it a uniform colour all the way across, or is part of it bright silver, and part darker? This would indicate a crack existing before it snapped.

BTW, parts from rust free California may be OK, but the usual snag with this assembly is that the adjuster is assembled without grease and the threads rust. It then becomes a real fight to free off the adjuster to compensate for the new ball joint.
For this reason it is usual in the UK to change the complete assembly anyway, especially if you are paying for someone's time to free the adjuster assembly.
Note that it's the 'other' ball joint that is expensive, as it is crimped into the tube, so replacing that ball joint means you are buying most of the drag link anyway.

Good Luck
 

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Hi to me it looks as it has popped out from it's socket .
i haden't newer seen one broken i would be concerned for the rest
of them.(or you not the car)?
 

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John, I think you are correct, thanks for stepping up.
In the first picture it looks as though there is a stub of pipe sticking out to one side, above the ball, and I took this to be part of the drag link. But that analysis doesn't tie in with the second picture, which shows there is no tube at that point, just the solid adjuster. The second picture also shows the socket half of the joint.

So, the problem was that the joint was well past it's change before date, and it will be a very wise precaution to change the complete drag link, and the complete tie rod, if the joints on that are in a similar state.


Regards
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I am pretty much set on replacing the whole thing now or in the close future, but I am still wondering if I can use a generic tie rod end with the same width/thread as the broken one?

Also, I had a slight shimmer/shake at highway speeds that might have loosened it :/ but do you think it being loose in the first place could have caused it to seperate? If so does anyone have any suggestions about getting a wheel balance or alignment or anything after I get it connected?


I am a poor college student so remember that I need the bare min to get me from point a to point b....somewhat safely :)
 

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bkenny said:
I am pretty much set on replacing the whole thing now or in the close future, but I am still wondering if I can use a generic tie rod end with the same width/thread as the broken one?
Obviously you need one the same size and thread, but if you find one that isn't Land Rover then it will probably be OK.
BUT, this is an import, where were you thinking of finding one from?

bkenny said:
Also, I had a slight shimmer/shake at highway speeds that might have loosened it :/ but do you think it being loose in the first place could have caused it to seperate?
Play in the ball joint, and in the other drag link / tie rod ball joints would have given you a shimmy. The play would also have allowed the steering wheel to kick when you hit a pothole. The shimmy wasn't the cause of the joint separating, the shimmy was the warning which told you that 'something' needed attention. Through inexperience, you ignored the warning.

bkenny said:
If so does anyone have any suggestions about getting a wheel balance or alignment or anything after I get it connected?
In my opinion, wheel balancing and alignment are always worthwhile, but as to where is good for doing a Land Rover, you need input from locals.

bkenny said:
I am a poor college student so remember that I need the bare min to get me from point a to point b....somewhat safely
They only advice there is to buy a vehicle more suited to your means, not a 10 year old high end import which only gets cheaper to buy, never cheaper to maintain.

HTH
 
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