[dantheman201]

Hi All,
I was inspecting the throttle body this morning and saw a crack in what looks like the inlet water hose.

I can't see any leaks yet, bit does anyone have any steps on how I should replace this?

Any help greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

 

[Googs]

Hi, what motor is this you are having problems with.... BMW, Jag/Ford??

 

[dantheman201]

Hi, what motor is this you are having problems with.... BMW, Jag/Ford??

It's a Jag 4.4 2006

 

[Googs]

Quite an easy fix with the correct parts...fit the lower connector firstly then snake it through to the top.

 

[dantheman201]

Quite an easy fix with the correct parts...fit the lower connector firstly then snake it through to the top.

Thank you! Do I need to bleed the cooling system?

As for the parts I was just going to order the replacement hose, is there anything else I need?

 

[Googs]

Yes mate you’ll need to get the air out of the cooling system.
the hose you are talking off is at the top of the motor so you shouldn’t have too much air trapped in there, just make sure when you start up and get to heat open all the vents on heater to let any trapped air in there out (if any)

 

[lenlo]

Updated your drawing with the top bleed screw location. The other two bleed screws are one on the coolant tank where you add coolant. The 3rd is buried on the thermostat housing below the power steering reservoir.

Personally I would replace all of those hoses but particularly the one with the bleed screw. It becomes swollen where it begins to rub on the fan or cracks at the thermostat housing. The bleed screw on it also becomes brittle and cracks, they don't sell it separately so you end up needing to buy the hose should it break while you are trying to purge the air from the system

Replace it now and throw the old on the shelf as a spare.

 

[dantheman201]

Updated your drawing with the top bleed screw location. The other two bleed screws are one on the coolant tank where you add coolant. The 3rd is buried on the thermostat housing below the power steering reservoir.

Personally I would replace all of those hoses but particularly the one with the bleed screw. It becomes swollen where it begins to rub on the fan or cracks at the thermostat housing. The bleed screw on it also becomes brittle and cracks, they don't sell it separately so you end up needing to buy the hose should it break while you are trying to purge the air from the system

Replace it now and throw the old on the shelf as a spare.

View attachment 308101

View attachment 308102

Thank you Lenlo!

I will go and check out RAVE for the bleeding procedure, just to confirm from your diagram, I should be ordering:
LR 4680301 - hose with the bleed value
LR 006157 - throttle body hose (was 4680293)
LR 4726370 - small hose (hose inc clamps LR006162)

Do I need to order any other hoses or hose clamps in your opinion?

Thanks again!

 

[lenlo]

The only hoses I have had issues with are the two heater hoses 4680301 & 4680304. Besides that, the only other coolant related items I have experienced have been the coolant recovery tank float (need to replace entire tank), thermostats including PCH501310 and the cooling flange that goes between the thermostat housing and the block. For me at 100k miles I replace the water pump and the coolant with DexCool.

 

[lattyak]

On my 08, I also had a leak in that same octopus hose. I ended up replacing all the hoses. Every hose but one, showed signs of imminent failure. Soft spots, where the layers of hose have separated. Or bulging, where coolant has infiltrated the delamination. They are 15 years old.

While I was in there I replaced the thermostat, temp sensor and coolant manifold o-rings. I also took off the intake manifold to get better access, and to inspect that area.

It's a big DIY job, although I think I spent more time searching for parts. Take your time, layout the parts as you take them off. Verify you have the correct replacement parts. Expect 2 weekends, with the week in between waiting for additional parts.

Genuine vs aftermarket. The temp sensor is the only part that must be genuine LR. The rest aftermarket is probably fine, and a third the cost.

 

[dantheman201]

Thank you Lenlo and lattyak.

The 3 hoses I mentioned above have arrived and I plan to do the rest soon after.

My plan is to replace those 3 hoses without draining the system and following post #29 from step 10 onwards, does that sound like the right approach?

New Radiator and now over heating

 

[lattyak]

If the coolant is more than 2 years old, you should replace it -- drain and flush. You only need to do a simple flush. After draining close the drain valve fill with tap water, then drain. Keep repeating fill with water, then drain till it's clear.

I also like to pressure test dry, after replacing hoses. Using a tester, pump it up to 12 psi, and listen for leaks. You more easily can find small leaks testing dry, but you need a quite place.

You should inspect all the other hoses for bulges and soft spots.