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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I’m in the market for a Range Rover as I need an SUV that is capable and able to do things. Not really a fan of the X5 and over MLs, I was looking at last gen Range Rovers when I found a current gen 2014 Range Rover with 150k miles. This would be a daily driven car.
Now my first thought is how does someone drive that many miles in such little time, but obviously people have different uses for their cars.
Now my concerns are:
  • how much does the mileage affect the unreliability of the car? Range rovers have a reputation for being unreliable and I’d assume that the mileage would take it one step further.

  • How many more miles can I put on the car?

  • What things should I know/have checked (brakes, tires, etc) before making a decision?


  • Are there any problems with the current gen Range Rover I should know about.
Also, it is at a Land Rover dealership if that helps at all.
Thank you all for your help.
 

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2013-2015 Range Rover MkIV / L405
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You would really have to see what services have been performed, by whom and when. Is this a one owner car? What does Carfax say? What is your budget? What is your budget for repairs? Can you turn a wrench?

After I considered that information and still wanted this vehicle, I would hire someone to do a PPI.
 

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That's a lot of miles (I have 118K) but if it has a full, documented service history and the price is right maybe you can make it work. There aren't a ton of buyers for this mileage so I would negotiate hard for the best price and set aside $5,000 for the unknowns. Also, I would make sure you have a good, independent shop in your area.

I would be in the low $20S - $25K. MAX.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You would really have to see what services have been performed, by whom and when. Is this a one owner car? What does Carfax say? What is your budget? What is your budget for repairs? Can you turn a wrench?

After I considered that information and still wanted this vehicle, I would hire someone to do a PPI.
It is a one owner car with no accidents and an extended service history. All services seem to be done on time and were all done at the same dealership (which is also the dealership that is currently selling it). My budget was $25k before taxes but this car is only a few thousand more and that’s before negotiation. As for repairs I was hoping to get a third party warranty just to be on the safe side. Even if I end up eating the $4k or however much it costs, the peace of mind is worth it for me. I’m not great with my hands, but I have done simple things like replacing brake pads and oil changes. Anything deeper than that, which requires taking apart multiple parts I leave to the professionals.

thanks for your feedback!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That's a lot of miles (I have 118K) but if it has a full, documented service history and the price is right maybe you can make it work. There aren't a ton of buyers for this mileage so I would negotiate hard for the best price and set aside $5,000 for the unknowns. Also, I would make sure you have a good, independent shop in your area.

I would be in the low $20S - $25K. MAX.
It is a one owner car with no accidents and an extended service history. All services seem to be done on time and were all done at the same dealership (which is also the dealership that is currently selling it). They’re asking $27,500 and I was going to offer $24,000. Do you think that’s too high?
 

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If you arent friendly with wrenches or have money to burn at an Independent.....I might reconsider. You might be getting the RR for $25k but remember, its still a $100,000 car to maintain. On the bright side, its still a newish vehicle age wise and this side of the forum seems to have fewer issues than the L322.
 

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Please check to see if an independent service shop is in your area and have them do an inspection and test drive. Price? 24 is the max. There are a couple of low miles running 2013-2015 Range Rovers on copart that aren’t flood damage vehicles so I would look there, because some are good cars at 21kand much less miles. Branded title doesn’t matter at the price point Your looking at.

A compression test, a tranny and differential check are crucial. Plus you should research if timing chains and water pumps and if it has a supercharger need replacement.

I always pay for diagnostic then do work myself on my 13 with 99k 5.0 engine. My 14 still has a year left on warranty. My indy mechanic makes house calls!

Sourcing used parts on eBay keeping an obd 2 code reader in the car and googling the codes is the cheapest solution to any repairs. Just an FYI.
 
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Also, were the oil changes done at 15K intervals? I believe that is way to long to go. There was a recent post somewhere here (maybe the L494 forum?) about problems with lifters and guides in high mileage vehicles with 15K oil changes.
 

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Agree with stemikel, 15k miles is way too long for oil changes. Ill throw in lack of Trans fluid changes into the mix. Despite what LR said previously, my old L322 gor oil changes every 4k miles and Trans fluid at 50k and 100k.
 

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2016-2018 Range Rover MkIV / L405
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with other brands, 10,000 miles interval is the recommended
i read in another car forum, where they actually sent the oil for analysis that the synthetic oil can go as far as 17,000 miles
not that im suggesting that.
But every 4,000 miles, unless we're talking 4,000 miles in 2 years is early
 

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So the oil change thing is an issue on the 5.0 V8 engine and on the supercharged V6, as the latter engine is really just a 5.0 with the back two cylinders rendered inoperable.

On these engines, the timing chain tensioners would start to wear a hole in the aluminum timing chain guides. That hole meant less tension on the guides, which meant more slop in the timing chain, which meant the chain would wear and need to be replaced. It's about a $5k job to have done at the dealer.

In late 2012 (but mostly starting in 2013) Land Rover introduced a new timing chain guide that had a steel "button" in the spot where the timing chain tensioner hits it. Everyone thought that these were the answer, but, apparently, they are still suffering the same issue. However, based on people I've asked, the issue with the updated part seems to be happening purely on vehicles whose oil changes were prolonged.

I'm a current LR4 owner, looking at L405s. I had the timing chain job done on my 2012 LR4 under the CPO warranty. As I'm looking at L405s, I see in the service history where a lot of oil changes were really prolonged. I'm talking first oil change (at least in the carfax) wasn't until 17k miles, which I think is an issue with the 15k recommended interval--people always drag that stuff longer. It could also be an issue with an off-lease vehicle, where the lessee really just wanted to pay for the bare minimum over his/her 3 years of ownership.
 

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So the oil change thing is an issue on the 5.0 V8 engine and on the supercharged V6, as the latter engine is really just a 5.0 with the back two cylinders rendered inoperable.

On these engines, the timing chain tensioners would start to wear a hole in the aluminum timing chain guides. That hole meant less tension on the guides, which meant more slop in the timing chain, which meant the chain would wear and need to be replaced. It's about a $5k job to have done at the dealer.

In late 2012 (but mostly starting in 2013) Land Rover introduced a new timing chain guide that had a steel "button" in the spot where the timing chain tensioner hits it. Everyone thought that these were the answer, but, apparently, they are still suffering the same issue. However, based on people I've asked, the issue with the updated part seems to be happening purely on vehicles whose oil changes were prolonged.

I'm a current LR4 owner, looking at L405s. I had the timing chain job done on my 2012 LR4 under the CPO warranty. As I'm looking at L405s, I see in the service history where a lot of oil changes were really prolonged. I'm talking first oil change (at least in the carfax) wasn't until 17k miles, which I think is an issue with the 15k recommended interval--people always drag that stuff longer. It could also be an issue with an off-lease vehicle, where the lessee really just wanted to pay for the bare minimum over his/her 3 years of ownership.
Everyone with a 2012 L322 got excited when you said “Late 2012’s” but then realized that 2013 models began in late 2012...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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So I’m in the market for a Range Rover as I need an SUV that is capable and able to do things. Not really a fan of the X5 and over MLs, I was looking at last gen Range Rovers when I found a current gen 2014 Range Rover with 150k miles. This would be a daily driven car.
Now my first thought is how does someone drive that many miles in such little time, but obviously people have different uses for their cars.
Now my concerns are:
  • how much does the mileage affect the unreliability of the car? Range rovers have a reputation for being unreliable and I’d assume that the mileage would take it one step further.

  • How many more miles can I put on the car?

  • What things should I know/have checked (brakes, tires, etc) before making a decision?


  • Are there any problems with the current gen Range Rover I should know about.
Also, it is at a Land Rover dealership if that helps at all.
Thank you all for your help.
They have known mechanical faults with G/box high speed use in sport / manual range rover are aware of this but have done no recalls same goes for rear differential.
Suspension normal issues
Compressor for suspension an issue but RR have changed to compressor make to Hitachi model less failures
Timing chain also tended to stretch will rattle on start up only remedy is replace. All said I love my supercharged wont drive anything else.
But Lexus 570 is tempting less issues
 

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Reticent to start a new thread, so this is close enough. I have a 2014 Range Rover that I purchased new. It has about 70k miles on it and I'm curious, with excellent maintenance and love and care how long these cars can go? I would like to keep the car until the wheels fall off. I have the HSE V6.

I also still have my 1993 RRC LWB that now has about 35k miles on it, and I will keep it forever too.
 

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Trucks been at the dealer since last month for a early 90k service/check up.

The dealer found the control arm bushings shot and the stabilizer bar bushings shot. I also had a tpms issue.

that’s been it
 

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Trucks been at the dealer since last month for a early 90k service/check up.

The dealer found the control arm bushings shot and the stabilizer bar bushings shot. I also had a tpms issue.

that’s been it
Same here at 145k I’m sure they’ve been bad for much longer. Let me know how the ride is afterwards!


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Control arm bushings are usually only good for 50k. I replaced an air compressor and that’s about it.
 
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