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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,

I've been looking for a LWB between 1988-1995. I'm starting to dive into this forum and other places for info, but what advice, tips, expectations for repairs can you give me so I know what I'm getting into if this becomes a daily driver for me?

Thanks in advance!
 

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We can shorten your search quite a bit. LWBs with the 108" wheel base were introduced in 1993 and produced for 1993, 94 and 95 model years. 95 had the revised Disco "soft dash" and sadly many parts are one year only.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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44 Posts
Hi everyone,

I've been looking for a LWB between 1988-1995. I'm starting to dive into this forum and other places for info, but what advice, tips, expectations for repairs can you give me so I know what I'm getting into if this becomes a daily driver for me?

Thanks in advance!
Imho, there are three things to look out for: rust, rust, and rust. Floor boards, cargo area, wheel wells.. all of which are killers and nearly impossible to repair correctly.
 

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I have to agree that rust is a killer thing to watch for. 2/4 of my Classics were rust buckets. My current one is pretty bad..

but..

I've not put much thought into the rust and I've been fine. I've just made an appointment for the rear body mounts to be strengthened, as well as the rear floor board to be welded.

If original, replace the coil pack, it has left me stranded twice. Make sure to get at least the alternator belt from the dealer, I've found it is slightly wider than something bought from an autoparts store. $22 for the alternator belt.

The steering hoses leak quite a bit on mine before replacing the high pressure hose and reservoir cap.

Brake lines rust especially badly IMO.. I've had 3 consecutively go out in the first snow, whether that be from temperature difference or the fact that I actually drove the truck for once due to weather.

Updated stereo is a great update, for how much road noise is produced, something to listen to is nice.

I've found my radiator is corroding quite badly, to the point that running my finger across it will easily damage some fins. Make sure the radiator is either in good condition, or has been replaced..
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Imho, there are three things to look out for: rust, rust, and rust. Floor boards, cargo area, wheel wells.. all of which are killers and nearly impossible to repair correctly.
Cargo floor can be solved with some sheet metal and rivets.....
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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My classic is undergoing a complete restoration and will be rust sealed for life.

There are only very few LWB around, I think I have seen 2 in my life, one here, one in France.
If you are open to a standerd 100" you might find a lot more options.
2 doors have nice big front doors for instance.

One very important thing to check in any range is the Transfer box. If you limit it to 1988 that is the year they changed for the not so lockable and more fragile Borg Warner. An Lt230is always a plus, the lock in mud or snow is a lot better.
obviously you want to do a compression test on the engine, if you are after a LWBI think they only came as 4.2 which had far more problems thatn the 3.9 or 3.5.

So run it at least an hour up and downhill to make extra sure it is not overheating.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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They're are pretty common in the US, almost all the late imports were 108" actually. 4.2s and 3.9s have the same problems in my experience but the extra power makes it much more usable on the highway. I'd never go back to dally driving a SWB honestly, the LWB is more practical and even on coils the ride is quite a bit better.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you all for the replies. Narrowed to the soft dash '95 LWB, and much harder to come by a good candidate for a project thats rust free and preferably sourced in Southern Cali. If anyone can help steer me in a direction it would be much appreciated. Thanks again
 
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