Well basicly its a hard wired compressor to inflate the tyres after the desert runs.
Its mounted under the driver seat and accessed through the little hatch on the frontside of the driver seat. Have a spiral hose permanently connected to the compressor which stores neatly under the seat. Just have to connect an additional switch to it to operate it from the dash - not required but convenient and cool.
The white box on the seat mount is a fuse box which will allow me to connect further applications from there. Thought its a good place - hidden, accessable and central.
Am looking at doing the same sort of thing myself. Am looking at an arb locker, and would like to pump up my tires, and have a fail safe for the eas pump if it poos itself in the middle of woop woop (wherever that is?). I drew up this last night so apologies it's not quite finished yet, but hopefully the concept is there. The green lines are the air side, and the black stuff is electrical.
There's a few options.
1. To have the eas pump operating the eas, and the aux operating the aux tank (at 80 psi).
2. To have the eas and aux pump operating the eas (bought about by the temperature switch on my perfectly fine eas pump triggering on a hot day in the sand).
3. To have the aux pump run the eas incase the eas pump breaks.
It's nerdy I know, but.... please tell me if i've got something wrong.
What sort of pump is that underneath your seat, it looks pretty big!
Well, it is big - but also quite juicy. I just stripped it dowm to the bare minimum and most important removed the fake (plastic) cooling fins. Therefore you can see the naked cylinder.
Its a Chinese compressor with actually works :thumb: . Seems that the guys had a good week over there. A couple of buddies use the same and are very happy.
Just a number: It inflates a 275/70 16 tyre from 10psi to 35 psi in about 30 sec. More then good for me.
The two rear bolts nearest the firewall LH side ( and maybe someothers) holding the heads ARE NOT BUDGING with my impact driver, so I was considering using a cheater bar to remove them. Im not a full time mechanic and Im hoping that will work and not break the bolts. Anybody have an opinion on...
Hi,
I have a range rover Classic 1987 no MAF but injection with manual transmission,
when going uphill loss of power after 5 to 10 min, Engine stuters and heavy engine shakes, then if you shift to 2nd gear you can manage to stay on 2nd,
but engine overheats you need to cool it.
I changed spark...
I guess a better question would be: Where is the port where I'd hook up a mechanical (with the little plastic oil line) oil pressure guage?
My oil light has been flickering slightly lately when the engine is hot, but it is not consistent; if the pressure was actually trending low at idle and...
Just a quick sanity check: it’s not ok if the hose that goes to the distributor vacuum advance has free flow, right? If I detach it from the throttle body and blow or suck through it, air flows both ways.
I do need to replace my distributor diaphragm, right? Can I do that without installing a...
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