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The truck died (92 RRC, 3.9L) while idling in my driveway and would spin but not start. I checked for spark at the plug and found none. I got a weak spark from the coil and some odd voltage readings when testing so I replaced the coil. Still no spark at the plug. Further testing pointed to the amplifier module. In order to replace the Amplifier Module on my '92 3.9L, I had to remove the distributor (not enough room to access the mounting screws).


I made all the appropriate markings before removing the distributor from the engine. After replacing the module I dropped the distributor into place without much effort. All the marks aligned perfectly. Re-tightened. Re-assembled. The truck would spin but still not start so I performed the rotor arm test (Rave) which indicated an earth fault on the rotor arm. I replaced the rotor arm (which was only a few months old) and reassembled, ensuring plug wires were in the correct order to the distributor cap (which was also replaced at the same time as the rotor arm).


The car fired right up but a terrible screech started. I killed the engine. Rechecked things under the hood and retried. Same terrible screech. This screech is new. In the brief moment I had the truck running the second time, it sounded like the screech was coming from the drivers side of the engine, possibly in the area of the alternator. Of course, the distributor is in that same general vicinity. It sounds far far worse than a belt screech, and all the belts were just replaced several months ago. When last the car was running in my driveway a few days ago there were no bearing issues under the hood.


The only thing that really changed under the hood during this (electrical) repair was the existing distributor being removed/returned to the engine, the amplifier module, the coil and the rotor being replaced. Everything else was functioning normally.


So far I have pulled the distributor cap and do not see any signs of any issue.


Given what was done any thoughts on the screech?
 

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Remove alternator belt and try it without, at same time check alt bearings run free.

I can't imagine that the distributor would screech, certainly never experienced it.
 

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When you reinstalled the distributor
Did you line up the oil pump rod connector at the bottom of the distributor
Just throwing that out there
 

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Assuming the engine runs just fine (apart from the screech) and since you did all the checks related to the distributor it would be hard to believe the issue is with the distributor.

Normally screeching noises come from the belt. Any chance you can have somebody crank the engine (possible with ignition/spark disconnected) to see if one the pulleys is not turning?
 

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I'm having a similar noise and it is only at idle. i think it could be one of the pulleys seizing up as well. all the belts have been tightened and seem in good shape. just replaced the alternator because i was having power issues but i think the two problems seem related. the old alternator was probably still okay, but i upgraded to the higher amp so i am keeping it, but the problem remains.

the rover will screech right on start up and then smooth out on its own. after revving it will screech when it drops back to idle again. then eventually smooth out, drive around fine but when you turn the car off, to run an errand then back on and it won't start. bogs down, kind of popping noise when i hit the gas and stalls. tow it home, next morning, starts right up. repeat the same process over. the fuel pump will work the first time - and then i can't hear it after trying to start it for the second time. i read that the pump will cut off if there is already gas so not to flood the engine. so i can't really tell if the fuel pump is going out or if it is stalling from a pulley seizing up like the a/c..
 

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You've two things you need to separate there Jkunke. The belts you need to remove them to see if it runs without noise, check all pulleys for free running etc, then one by one add them back on. That's if you can't readily identify the cause.

Belt dimensions are important. They drive on the sides of the belt, not the base of the V. If belt is too narrow for the pulleys it will always squeal under load as it'll slip, for example, when the alternator makes power to charge the battery.
Correctly sized belts will provide more traction as they are tensioned as the flanks bite harder into the pulley faces. If this isn't possible from dimensions, then the base will squeal on the bottom of the V.

Fuel pump is different issue.

When you turn on and not crank ecu will initiate fuel pump to on for roughly five seconds to prime fuel rail for injector supply. If no cranking, then ecu receiving no pulse from coil will turn pump off again as logic says it's not needed. You can check this by putting all screwdriver to fuel filler cap neck, get someone to turn on and you'll here the pump running for that time.

Start sequence, is initial pump on, crank engine, fires and runs, ecu receiving pulse from ignition coil that confirms motor is running, leaves fuel pump circuit live to keep going.
What can fail? Ecu switches pump via relay under front seats. If this is unreliable it will give the symptoms you are getting. You may need a new relay.

If the relay always switches (you can check this with a multi meter on fuel pump line in fuse box) then it's more likely to be wiring continuity from there onwards.

So you have to
 
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