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Discussion Starter #1
Hello
When i came fron the highway with a normal warm engine, ther were a lot of stops and very slow traffic.
The temperature of the engine rose (outside temp was 34 centigrade), the warning light was on, the airco went down.
As soon as possible i got ther car tot the side of the road excpecting a broken hose.
That was not the case, so i went back in the car, started the engine again en let it idle with 3500 rpm.
With a rather quick positive result.
I had to repeat the procedure many times.
So i begin to think that the viscous fan does not work at low idling speed or that fan has too low a capcity.
How can i test the fan?
Or is it the thermostat?
What i found was, that the complete airco out when the temop got very high. Also the airco ventilator were not turning.
Especially the airco ventilators coul cool the system probably.

Can anybody give me some help???

simon janssen
holland
new member with a p38 1999 autobiography
 

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It could be an "all of the above" answer, but you can test the fan drive by attempting to stop it with a rolled up newspaper when the engine is hot. Not for the squeamish, but if the newspaper easily stops the fan when at operating temperature, the viscous drive is probably due for replacement. From my perspective, the next suspect would be the radiator. If the system hasn't been flushed for some time, then perhaps it is time to do so. If the radiator is partially blocked, a replacement may be in order, and there are a number of aftermarket replacements. I'm not sure that the thermostat would fail in such a way since my experience has been a cold engine results from such a problem.
 

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yes first of all never and i mean never rev ur p38 more than 2000 rpm in n or p or u will brake ur transmission
when u said that reving the truck at this rpm cured ur overheating,did u hear ur viscous fan cut in?did u hear a strong fan noise like a hair dryier?if yes it means ur vc fan is working properly
 

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Discussion Starter #4
hello guys

I tested the viscous fan with the newspaper. It works well.
Today i drove 20 km,s in the morning. No problem. When i drove back again 20 km,s the engine didnot run nice. Not on gas nor on lpg.
Driving/light accelerating at low revs got me a stuttering engine. Higher revs seems to end stuttering but the power seems not all right.
Again i lost a liter of cooling liquid. Absolutely no water in the oil and absolutely no sludge in the oil filler cap. Apart from the loss of cooling liquid
i had the feeling it might be electrical. So i checked the main fuse and relay unit completely and the main mass point. I found som small irregularities
but the repair made no difference.
(i ruined a rover 820si zf autobox by truing the staal speed in D. Did not know you cannot rev 2000 in N or P. How come?)
I have the impression that todays disfunctioning is not primary radiator related !!??)

When i bought the car i was convinced i bough a nice engine. Dro 100 miles home. Next car was running like today.
On the monitor you could see the cylinder 5 was not behaving normal. A new sprakplug cleared the problem. I was advised
to replace all leads an sprakplugs . So I did. The engine ran nice again.

5000 km ago the car was checked and they could not get the right co2 level. the airmass meter and two lambda sondes were replaced.
It passed the co2 test. Two weeks ago i put in new ngk sparkplugs in because there were little moments of hesitating engine behavior as it hesitates
continuously today.

You understand: i hope it is electrical but i fear there are problems with the headgasket or worse.

I am planning to get it monitored tuesday next.

again: diagnostical suggestions are very welcome

simon janssen
holland
 

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These conversions to LPG is screwing up everything, who knows what they have done to electricals etc...
 

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You've got a leak someplace - check the line from the manifold to the throttle body - it will dry out and split at the bend.

Check the seal at the inlets on the underside of the main body where the two nipples are, check the main seal on the throttle body.

Look at every hose connector and check for evidence of leakage - if you are loosing coolant it's going someplace.

I'm going through mine right now.
 

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Sounds like a slipped liner to me.

If you drive it any more without fixing it then you WILL have a slipped liner.

Sorry buddy.

The way we tested for a slipped liner in mine was to remove the radiator cap and screw in an air pressure fitting into each spark plug hole. Each should operate at 100psi compression and when we put 100psi in one particular cylinder it very quickly bubbled out the open collant cap.

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hello

After the temperature incident, the went running very bad. It seemed an electrical fault to me. No power especially not in the low revs.
It was a sturttering car.
The specialist i went to, told me- he diagnosed the temperature problem- told me i had a crack in the engine block, which he suspected already half a year ago. The just bought car had a high coolant presuur according to that specialist. So he offered me to build a new engine in the car, which would cost me about 7200 euro.
At home again, i started searching the electrical problem. Tested alle the sparkplug and cables. At last the eightth cable was in my hand and no more in the car.
Before that i concluded there was hardly any spark ...
refitin the cable 8 made the car run smooth again....
I would have expected a fault message from the bmw electronic system in the case of such a problem. That the reason i did not start searching in the system.
I am waiting for a very hot dat again, have inspected the cooling system again and i seem not to be losing fluid. I hope i had some gasses in the system and not from a crack.
I am still hoping and driving.

greetins
simon janssen
holland
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hi

i will do the slipped liner test en let you know.
It seems(seems) i do not lose cooling fluid anymore..

thaks and greetings

simon janssen
holland
 

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7200 euros, bloody hell you could post it to me and still save half.....Im baffled where these prices come from..
 
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