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Discussion Starter #1
hi all

posted a couple of months back about replacing waterpump that job was done and all fine but i am now getting a bouncing temp gauge it as only gone in to the red once but freaked me but what i dont understand is why the needle bounces up and down the gauge and the faster i go the higher it reads and as soon as i slow the needle returns to the centre and bounces gently.

i have searched the forum and cant find anything that sounds similar i am loosing no coolant since waterpump was replaced

ihope someone can put me in the right direction

cheers
 

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that sounds like it could be an electrical issue, if you drop a gear and rev the engine at the same road speed, does the needle move?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
while the engine is warming up the needle rises steadily then it starts to jump around all the time as it is an auto box i have never really noticed if it does it when the kick down is taking place i will take a look and see if it does

thank youy for your reply
 

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Mine is starting to do this. I recently took it on a road trip and noticed that when I'm in a lower gear accelerating it "heats up" which isn't what the scanner is saying. As shupak stated, its definitely electrical. Its a grounding issue somewhere. Might be as simple as the main ground, or far more complex like mine. I'm about ready to break down and just buy that stupid conversion kit from AB that will fix the problem. The only issue I have with doing that is there is still a short somewhere that is probably causing or going to cause other problems...
 

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i would guess it's probably something in the becm. you never when a PO decided to feed it fries & a coke. that was the root of my gauge problems at least. it needed a good cleaning and some resoldering.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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If the needle is bouncing, remove the cluster, take the white cover off the back of it and you will find three screws which hold each gauge in place, see if the temp gauge screws are loose.
To barrow a phrase (Ask me how I know) the screws are part of the electrical trace on the board of the cluster if there loose there is in interruption of power to the gauge you know the rest first hand.
Be careful not to over tighten the screws just snug them up...

Scotty
 

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This doesn't address the op's question, but more towards lrscott's observation.

It's mentioned that an electrical issue is present, and as a result thinking about a coil conversion. If so, have you looked at the EAS compressor? You'll be surprised how much trouble a compressor makes if it's shorted in there. I think it's well worth it to take it apart, and do an overall health check of your compressor electricals. I know this, because I've recently bought a used compressor (From MrKaira on For Sale site) that's totally screwed up inside, and it kept causing one of the fuse to pop, rendering the entire car immobile.
 

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TheoR said:
It's mentioned that an electrical issue is present, and as a result thinking about a coil conversion.
Not sure here but I think he may be talking about aTemp Gauge Conversion kit you can buy from AB.

Cheers
 

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:think:
 

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What year model....on earlier p38s the connector and sensor can and do often become faulty.
Replacing or cleaning connector solves this issue, if it continues then I would check on the gauge
 

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Scangauge II which you can purchase off ebay will give you the actual temperature reading that the engine computer is running off.

In early p38's there was a temperature sensor for the EFI computer and a seperate one for the gauge. In later ones I think this was changed.

However if you want to know the actual temperature, then Scangauge will help.
 

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reduntilimdead said:
hi all

posted a couple of months back about replacing waterpump that job was done and all fine but i am now getting a bouncing temp gauge it as only gone in to the red once but freaked me but what i dont understand is why the needle bounces up and down the gauge and the faster i go the higher it reads and as soon as i slow the needle returns to the centre and bounces gently.

i have searched the forum and cant find anything that sounds similar i am loosing no coolant since waterpump was replaced

ihope someone can put me in the right direction

cheers
Don't u worry it is a dirty ground,in the engine bay.check these ones.ground point under exp tank,ground behind battery,ground in front of the ecm,ground on the shock absorber turret,ground on engine down of alternator on the side.clean those first,if it is not cured,replace the coolant sensor the 1 with a single wire.i'm positive it is a loose or dirty ground.
 

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i had that same problem of temp gauge swinging wildly but rad water running cool / what i did is add extra earth cable from neg battery post to alternator bracket mounting bolt ,instant fix .( see my photobucket p38a pics for what it looks like , when done ) that ,as above posts mention is what i had and fixed .
 
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