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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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282 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
This weekend I had to replace the front passenger door lock. Being a bit a '38 novice and an avid reader of this forum, this was taken on with more than a degree of trepidation....



It was made more nervous as half way through the process I found that the replacement lock proved to be the wrong one, so instead of replacing I had to take the original lock apart, clean it (all the white grease had turned solid and jammed the mechanism), put the six and half thousand pieces back together in the right order (thanks to all on this forum for lots of helpful photos), and put it back in......hooray, it all works well, no superlock, alarm issues, EKA etc...joy :grin:



So, feeling somewhat pleased with myself this morning, I jumped into my Renault Euro box to go to work to find this on the display....

DSC_0242.jpg



….as both cars were parked side by side whilst I was doing the lock, I can only assume the '38 has telepathically put my Renault into superlock instead.. :wink:



As this forum is full of helpful info, here's how I changed the lock (rightly or wrongly!) - note the car battery was left connected throughout - Rave seems to make no mention of disconnecting it so being a novice I took it at its word (in case its relevant, my battery is relatively new and is on a battery conditioner/trickle charger so is always very healthy)


  • Unlocked car on remote
  • Opened all doors (including tailgate and bonnet)
  • Put key in ignition, turned it to position 1 for a few seconds then back to off -left key in ignition throughout
  • Removed door trim.
  • Removed lock.
  • Removed lock wiring – car locked itself at this point (all the internal lock buttons went down) and the warning system gave one beep
  • Mended lock.
  • Re-fitted lock.
  • Re-fitted wiring – car un-locked itself at this point (buttons raised) and the warning system gave one beep
  • Re-fitted trim.
  • Removed key.
  • Shut doors, closed eyes, pressed remote to lock - worked 1st time – repeated several times – started car - all well
Apologies, but I didn't take note of the text on the diplay when the car beeped.
Please note the previous owner has cut the superlock wires (pink/white) which may have some bearing on the events.
The car is a UK Gems HSE V8, the locks are the ones without the flying leads (loom direct into lock housing)
The lock was changed not as a result of an issue, but because I noticed the lock pawl was all floppy, and occasionally the door would not shut unless I put a pencil in the lock to rotate the pawl back to the right place - I thought it pertinent to change it before an issue arose.

cheers.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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4,195 Posts
The car locking itself is just to do with the grounding of the microswitches when they are activated. The door locking one goes from ground to open when locked, so unplugging the latch makes the BECM think that the door has been sill locked.

If you want to do the procedure, but without the doors locking, then if you disconnect the rightmost connector on the bottom of the door outstation, then this disconnects the outstation power and serial link to the BECM - so when you unplug the latch, the 'lock' message isn't received by the outstation (as there's no power/signal link to it) and thus doesn't get to the BECM for it to then lock the other doors.

The key in the ignition shouldn't make any difference - that's mostly to make sure the vehicle know's its in an unlocked state when the battery is disconnected so it doesn't think it's been stolen and lock the doors/set the alarm when power is reconnected.

Can't hurt to leave it in there though. I always make sure the drivers window is down aswell, in case it does decide to lock itself for any reason!

Hope that helps!

Marty
 
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