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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi & my apologiesfor asking help on this subject as I have seen some similar replies in theForum during several searches, but I really need some help from experienced peoplein the know for helping me look at changing the gearbox oil in my RR Vogue TDV84.4 2011. They say the oil is for life in the box, but we just don't believe this& believe good servicing is the key to prolonging life for any car, so onthat note, I am in the mind to have the gearbox oil changed in my RR by me& my Son, I want to do this myself to honestly save on labour cost as thelocal RR dealer charges £173,00 ph. So my question is please, can someoneadvise me the best way to fully drain the oil out, what would be the best makeof filter & replacement gasket to use (I read on here not to use aftermarketwhich is fine) & how to fill the box again, but ensuring we fully top it upto correct level. Cheers.
 

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I bottled it and had mine done at a local garage. The oil was £44-odd/litre and there are 5 of em in it so it isn't cheap. The filter was another £184. I paid £60/hr and being a scaredy-cat thought that once every 90 thousand miles was a worthwhile expense.
Can't help you with the practicalities but £173ph sounds a bit of a rip-off..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply, aye, £173 ph is a pure rip off as I bought the RR 2 years old & put it in to have last service to keep the warrantee going, never again! Mercedes is no better at £142 ph. My Son owns a garage & MOT bay, so thought we would change the gearbox oil ourselves, I'm sure it's easy enough, but also had a little doubt after I looked at one of the other questions on the same topic on here, I guess we could do between us, but in the other related topic, there was good information, but I was hoping to elaborate a bit more on it, we have changed Turbos on a Sport before which was really not as hard as we first thought, the body only took a short time to lift off & a few hours work to remove and replace with new turbos, so changing gearbox oil should be a walk in the park, but only if we knew the exact way to do it, RR in Aberdeen are not very forthcoming with the info & would do the job, but had a warning that the oil in the box is there for life & thing could or may happen blah blah! the cost as well would be around £850 +/- so better we do it ourselves.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Hello,
The transmission is made by ZF, is there any local ZF workshop around?
Luckily there is one close to where I live (Darmstadt Germany) and they performed the service on my (then owned) 2008 3.6 TDV8.
They chaged not just the oil & filter but also some rubber parts of the hydraulic valve system that controlls the shifts.
Those rubber parts do also 'wear': they get shorter by constant force and it does change the way the control valve system works a bit, makes the shifts slower and such.
ZF also reset the tansmission ECU.
FYI :)
 

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They changed not just the oil & filter but also some rubber parts of the hydraulic valve system that controls the shifts.
Those rubber parts do also 'wear': they get shorter by constant force and it does change the way the control valve system works a bit, makes the shifts slower and such.
On the 6HP26, each of the six EDS solenoids has a damper/accumulator in its circuit, and the spring for the piston is made from rubber. These get hammered down over time (mainly when the solenoids develop faults, which is very common in the 6HP26) and require replacement



The 8HP70 uses the same damping system for the proportional solenoids (this time with seven accumulators for seven EDS solenoids) but the solenoids may be less problematic with the 8-speed so the damper springs don’t get hammered quite so hard.

Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sorry for late reply on this, but thank you for the info, I looked up ZF but nothing around me here in bonny scotland, I read up what they do & for sure it would be the full way to go & help keep my gearbox in top condition plus save my Son & me some valued time, I had a TD6 before the TD8 & the box went on me costing 5k to get replaced with recon one, I know the TD8 boxes are longer lasting, but I would feel good to prolong the life changing the oil out. After the new year, I will give ZF a call & get their advice & see what they suggest for the way ahead, thank you for the info though, very much appreciated, I now have issue of very spongy brake peddle ha ha, so away to look on here for the way forward on that issue as I know it's a little complicated procedure in bleeding the system, more so as I had to remove & clean both rear pistons & pop them back in...….
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Phil for the info, I am going to call ZF as Spitfire mentioned to see what we can do ourselves, I would love to just hand her in to have all done, but it's the cost thats the killer in honesty, so I will see what ZF come back with & if anything that the fourm can use, I will copy it & put it up for all in case it's of interest to anyone. cheers.
 

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Land Rover do actually specify replacing the transmission fluid every 9 years or 144,000 miles for the 8HP70X. ZF themselves specify refreshing (i.e. a drain & refill - where only around half of the fluid is renewed) after 8 years or 100,000km if the fluid will have operated at above-average temperatures due to a) towing, b) prolonged high speed motorway driving or c) ‘sporty’ driving.

The level/filler plug is a pain to get at (Land Rover specify the use of a special tool to allow access) but the drain plug is easily accessible once the six bolts retaining the heat shield have been removed.

The fluid level setting procedure is similar to all the ZF transmissions used in the L322 i.e.

  1. Vehicle must be level
  2. Fluid temperature must be between 30 and 50°C
  3. Engine must be idling
  4. Select each gear position on the dial for 5 sec. prior to setting the level (to ensure that the Mechatronic galleries & clutch lines are full of fluid)
In addition, for the 8HP70X, Land Rover add the following two requirements at the start of the level checking procedure :

  1. Make sure that the torque converter is full of oil by holding the engine speed at 2,000 rpm for a minimum of 30 seconds before selecting Park and letting the engine idle
  2. Make sure that the transmission oil has exceeded a temperature of 69°C so that the thermostat has fully opened allowing full circulation of the transmission fluid before allowing it to cool down again to 30°C ahead of the level being set
You should only use genuine ZF Lifeguard Fluid 8 in your transmission and a genuine IBS Filtran filter/sump.

Phil
 

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Great advise from phil! Thank you sir.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Phil, thank you for the very good information & the data sheet, I have been on ZF site UK a few times & if I understand right, they supply kits, so am thinking I will ask them to supply what's required for the oil change so that way, I know the parts will be good plus I will also ask them regarding the
damper/accumulator parts you mentioned above, not sure if this easy task to change regarding the solenoids or not, but i'm sure ZF will keep us right with what we can do & maybe not be able to do. Depending how busy my Son's garage is, I am hoping to do this with him around February time, I will take several pictures & notes for the Forum & post them up along with any mishaps we may encounter, so for now, it's a thank you for you guys that have helped me out with the good information supplied, I am off to keep reading up on sticky callipers & the best way to bleed the brakes as my brake peddle now is like a wet sponge. Cheers!
 
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