[Nico3687]

For those looking for a Christmas brain scratcher ...

I purchased my RR in September and since day one the Traction Control light next to the ABS light comes on every morning upon the day's first start up

I always let it idle for about 45 seconds before I drive off. 20 seconds after the motor is turned over, it dips to about 1,000 rpm (as it warms) and the TC light immediately disappears. Thus, the light is related to the fast engine idle speed on the day's first start up.

No symptoms. I attribute it to "character".

Anyone heard of this happening?

 

[RRToadHall]

It's not character, it's standard. Until you drive away the sensors have no clue that you are moving and can not register said movement via sensors. POOF movement, lights go out and all the Rover faeries are happy.

 

[Nico3687]

It's not character, it's standard. Until you drive away the sensors have no clue that you are moving and can not register said movement via sensors. POOF movement, lights go out and all the Rover faeries are happy.

I'm not talking about the ABS light. Did you read my post? This all goes down while idling after cold starts. No movement involved.

 

[N2O]

Looks like brake accumulator needs replacing.

 

[RRToadHall]

Did you read my post?

Well yes... yes I did wise fanny. Along the same line the "three amigos" come together as a party. If you have one then chances are all three are tied together. As noted above, after your poorly described post, this may be an accumulater issue.

 

[Nico3687]

Well yes... yes I did wise fanny. Along the same line the "three amigos" come together as a party. If you have one then chances are all three are tied together. As noted above, after your poorly described post, this may be an accumulater issue.

Awesome. Thanks. I wasnt trying to be wise but you came talking about movement and poofing and obvious things I knew about (abs light going off at 5mph) when all the while my post was limited to the first 20 seconds of cold start idling... IDLING. . Relax old sport.

As for my writing style, I think my post was pretty clearly worded but what do I know . . . I only write for a living.

You are right though it is a temporary visit from the 3 amigos. One time I released the hand brake immediately after start up but the brake light remained on - and turned off with the TC light a few seconds later.

Will there be a costly repair or issues down the road if not fixed now?

 

[hjames710]

Awesome. Thanks. I wasnt trying to be wise but you came talking about movement and poofing and obvious things I knew about (abs light going off at 5mph) when all the while my post was limited to the first 20 seconds of cold start idling... IDLING. . Relax old sport.

As for my writing style, I think my post was pretty clearly worded but what do I know . . . I only write for a living.

You are right though it is a temporary visit from the 3 amigos. One time I released the hand brake immediately after start up but the brake light remained on - and turned off with the TC light a few seconds later.

Will there be a costly repair or issues down the road if not fixed now?

My lights always come on on the first start up, I assume it's that the system is priming or warming up. They go out after like 10-20 seconds. I have a 6 month old accumulator.

Accumulator test is easy. Look it up. If your brakes are weak upon start up then it's a sign it's bad.

God, why is everyone in such a pissy mood today?

 

[Nico3687]

My lights always come on on the first start up, I assume it's that the system is priming or warming up. They go out after like 10-20 seconds. I have a 6 month old accumulator.

Such an odd vehicle

 

[Jos Geuze]

Hi

The car is equipped with a high pressure hydraulic pump for the brake operation. It takes time for the pump to build up the pressure till above 110 bar, this is the point where the lights of TC and the brake warning light extinguish. The pump keeps running until the pressure reaches 200 bar. If it takes time to accomplish this you have a good accumulator. If it takes very long the filter in the suction side of the pump where the brake fluid leaves the reservoir is dirty and the fluid has difficulties flowing out when it is cold.

Bad accumulator causes the pressure to build up quickly and it also goes down quickly when you use the brakes. This will cause frequent starting and stopping of your pump and this can lead to overheating and burning of the electro-motor. When you use the brakes with a bad accumulator the pressure could go down as far as below the 110 bar triggering the warning lights to alert you that the pressure is insufficient.

Regards

Jos

 

[Nico3687]

That makes sense, thanks a lot for your time Jos! I appreciate it.

So weird that traction control is linked to brake pressure but I will just accept it