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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
1996 4.6 HSE (RHD)

After being stranded with my kids getting chips at a place where they use RF receivers to tell you when they are ready (that were obviously more powerful than the one in the car and disabled my RF receiver until it was out of range), I have finally bitten the bullet and bought an updated one which has now arrived.

Unfortunately, in the interim, the tailgate button (which always required some patience - generally I held it down for up to 30 seconds, then there would be a drum roll and finally it would open) is now not responding at all, so neither flap will open, meaning it will be a real pain to try to fit the new RF receiver.

So my question is, what is the easiest way to get the boot flaps to open when there is no response from the button? I realise that I will need to fix something afterwards, but how do I get to it to fix it? Do I need to break the plastic trim at the base of the tailgate? The other doors unlock fine from the fob.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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105 Posts
I had a similar problem. I managed to pull the plastic trim back far enough to undo the plastic screws holding the tail gate trim in place and then slid it out. From there I could access the button and it opened. I managed to do this from inside the car and not break anything but it was a bit of a pain. There is probably a better way but that worked for me.

David
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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417 Posts
You need to replace the latch if it is making a drumroll sound. On the other hand once you open your drivers door the tailgate will open after 1 push. It is hardwires.
2 pushes to open the bottom. I did not know how the tailgait works until just last week.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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666 Posts
And of course replacing the receiver is easiest from the offside accepting getting the top cover off is required
 

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let's back up a bit. The buttons are notorious for corrosion. I;ve seen the innards so rotten the return spring in the button collapses. The drum roll sound is usually a sticking latch due to lack of lubrication maintenance through the rigs life. Or you have the cases where latches are knocked out of proper alignment from being slammed. There are many things that lead to this situation that can be rectified without replacing latches, all of them usually give hints that you need to address something.

As far as adding a ground wire, that simply renders your tailgate with no way to be locked. You are leaving your Rover wide open. The ground wire runs from the right door latch assembly and is not grounded if the Rover is locked. A separate ground wire means the tailgate button is always live.
 

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Same as mine..Then out of frustration i gave it a wallop with the palm of my hand...it opened and has never stuck again
 

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2,565 Posts
Here is how someone else fixed theirs
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=wpEtriYf3as
That probably isn't going to help stuck tailgates because it's not likely to be the problem [ground path through door microswitch] and if it was it's worth fixing it for alarm & CL reasons.

I appreciate the effort this guy is going to to help other P38 owners out there just wished he'd read the owners manual/ETM/Workshop manual, i've only watch 3 of them and each one has had parts which have been wincing! '#038 above for reasons mentioned and butchery. '# 060 - Back On The Road...' he's says the jack doesn't fit, well it doesn't go under the chassis, it goes under the axle (as per owners manual) '# 035 - Replacing Ball Joints...' is scary he's actually spreading the yoke, he should have pursued 'the right technique'.
 
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