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Buying a 2000 RR HSE 4.6, I'm thinking about using Royal Purple full SYN oil. The vehicle has 114K miles, can any of you seasoned Range Rover owners give me any advice.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Personally....why bother?
The engine is from decades past, it is a pushrod V8 with 2 valves per cylinder, and already has over 100k miles on it. Don't see the logic myself, unless you want to spend the money that is.
I build these engines, and they are about as basic as you can get. I always run Castrol myself, and change it regularly. Never gone wrong using that method, and it would take a LOT more than synthetic oil to get more BHP ad MPG our of these rigs:lol:
Of course, using the search function would net you a lot more results too.....
Martin
 

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+1. I have used and liked Royal Purple in my racebikes and in my MINI, but I wouldn't spend the money on a 100+k Rover motor that's likley to piss it out on the ground anyway :) I use Rotella in my '01
 

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+1 - Change oil more often instead, more likely that you´ll have debris floating around in the oil than the oil get´s "spent" like in newer engines..
 

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Another point ot add to the mix is that you have no idea the condition of the engine. A high detergent oil or the addition of a quart of tranny fluid will help clean up deposits and IMPROVE lubrication. Adding thin weight sythetics do little if anything to flush out old build up on higher mileage engines and also don;t help your lifter spin any. Our petrol engines were designed in the 60's in the age of low grade dino oil. Keep it that to help keep them happy.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I use Castrol edge synthetic 5-50 it has extra zinc for cam protection and it's British:) I use Castrol GTLMA brake fluid as well. When switching change the oil very often at first then slowly get back on schedule. I tend to use the color of the oil on the dipstick as my guide. But my rover is more or less a hobby for me.
There are claims that the synthetics can harm some composite gaskets. Just Saying


Sent from my iPhone using Autoguide
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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1 post wonder i guess....
OP, you are welcome:naughty:

Martin
 

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HEY NOW! Just because it;s only been 24 hours doesn;t mean he;s a one shot wonder. Be nice LLT! Don;t you have a new Jag to go purchase adn reground?
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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OK Ok, I'll try....:lol:

Martin
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Hi

I am also a firm believer in synthetic oil. I have seen the difference it makes between mineral oils and synthetic oils in industrial heavy duty applications and the synthetic oil just stays much better in condition (no oxidation of the oil) and prevents carbon build up at hot spots in the machines it is used in. To me I rather spent a bit of extra money on the oil. I have seen results of an example what happens when the cheapest engine oil is used and it destroyed the engine in that case.

Regards

Jos
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I don't think the argument is between synthetic or mineral but more against the weight of the oil. The fully synthetics are jut too thin leading to loss of pressure to the rocker gear. So, I,ve no doubt the fully synthetic does offer better protection, if it actually gets to were it needs to go.

If your bottom end is a little worn, your top end and cam are getting nothing at tickover, which could be a real issue if have to sit in traffic.

Modern engines that use fully synthetic oil are tiny, not much bigger than a lawn mower, have tiny bearings and short oil runs. Our engines are big enough to drive the Queen Mary and have to pump oil round the block and back.

If your oil is too thin then it'll just all squirt out the sides of the main bearings, if there's still some pressure left then the conrods will have the rest of it. Remember, ours have five mains and eight smallends, modern engines only have three or four mains and four smallends with much smaller bearings to lubricate.

Ours needs a bit more weight to carry it round the much larger system, even racing engines based on ours use a 30 weight oil, the thin stuff is no good, especially with the shearing action of the followers on the cam, if we had roller followers then it would be a different story, but we haven't so Im on Castrol 10/40 semi synthetic.
 

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Hi

The heavy duty industrial applications I was talking about where not engines but centrifugal separators and air compressors bigger then our engines. The reason why at my working environment synthetic oils are used in these machines is because mineral oils will cause more wear and sludge and carbon build up. The difference of a piston of a two stage compressor (stepped piston after 1500 running hours, oil change every 500 hrs) that run on synthetic or mineral oil is the ability to reuse the piston that run with synthetic and scrap the piston that run on mineral oil.

The example of the 4.6 engine that run with the cheapest oil on the market had sludge build up inside to the extent that engine performance dropped to near zero with the valves not being opened because of collapsed hydraulic tappets and destroyed camshaft and bearings.

I disagree with the statement that synthetic oil is too thin. The synthetic oil might be thinner then mineral oil at room temperature, but when in the engine at operation temperature it might be even thicker then the mineral oil because the viscosity of the synthetic oil is much less affected by the temperature which is why they have viscosity range displayed has a much wider band then mineral oil e.g. 5-50. I measured the oil temperature once with an infrared thermometer at a workshop and it showed 88 degrees Celcius. As long as there is no signal from the oil pressure switch showing low pressure I would not be worried about the top end not receiving oil. If the bottom end is worn I would be worried about the oil pump shattering as it will be under pressure because it has to support the cranck shaft instead of the worn bearing.

Best regards

Jos
 

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It is funny how some topics never go away and how the consensus seem to shift over the years. While the debate over the detergent factor seems like it will rage forever a few years ago it seemed many people here agreed mobil 1 0W40 was the way to go. It was frequently recommended by j e robison service co. I have run it for about 100K miles now except for once on a 1000 mile road trip when a leak by the filter more or less emptied the engine of oil a little over half way and I pulled in to a Loves gas station in the middle of the night and bought some cheap generic dino oil at $2/quart to fill with before I could flush and do an oil change in the street in front of my in-laws house).

Basically I think as long as you have some oil, and change it occasionally (preferably before you run dry) you'll be ok.
 

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Basically I think as long as you have some oil, and change it occasionally (preferably before you run dry) you'll be ok.
The most consice and appropriate summation ever posted! :clap:

PM me your address and I will shoot you some RRnet stickers/decals of your choice. :thumb:
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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i was going to say, I just run synthetic because i don't need to change it as often. 10000 miles between oil changes is great. And I have enough other things to do to the range rover, I don't need to change the oil every month. every 3 months is much better. Yes I drive a lot.
 

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i was going to say, I just run synthetic because i don't need to change it as often. 10000 miles between oil changes is great. And I have enough other things to do to the range rover, I don't need to change the oil every month. every 3 months is much better. Yes I drive a lot.
Does your engine burn much oil?
 

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no, it only leaks a little out of the rear main as well. i use 10w40 mobil 1. although this next oil change i'm switching to Rotella T 5w40 synthetic. I want to see if it makes any difference. its a diesel synthetic.
 

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no, it only leaks a little out of the rear main as well. i use 10w40 mobil 1. although this next oil change i'm switching to Rotella T 5w40 synthetic. I want to see if it makes any difference. its a diesel synthetic.
Having a look on the net i've found that the USA does fully synthetic oils 10w40, the UK doesn't. Typically, fully synthetics in the UK don't come any heavier than 5w30, although Mobil do a 10w60 fully synthetic for older engines.

This is where there may be some confusion, in the UK if your talking about Mobil one then your talking about 0w40. Mobil one do a 5w30 now but originally it was all 0w40, and that's what folks here refer to.
 
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