Range Rovers Forum banner

Suspension sway going over bumps

10K views 18 replies 8 participants last post by  Coronaflyest 
#1 ·
While going over bumps I have a lot of sway side to side on the front and the rear. I noticed that on one of the front tires I have extreme outer wear. I’m hoping that replacing the tires and getting a proper alignment fixes the issue.

2006 Range Rover Sport HSE
 
#2 ·
This sounds more like a suspension issue than a tire one. often a good tire place can tell if the suspension is having problems based on the wear on the tires.
I have a 2010 RRS and recently had sway/creaking over bumps, especially those taken while turning. my control arm bushings in the front were shot and that part of the suspension was essentially loose. I also had a fluttering feeling in the wheel at different speeds. it wasn't the balance or the tire, it was actually the control arms vibrating at different speeds. It's about $1000USD to get those bushings replaced and you'll have a big improvement. good luck!

While going over bumps I have a lot of sway side to side on the front and the rear. I noticed that on one of the front tires I have extreme outer wear. I’m hoping that replacing the tires and getting a proper alignment fixes the issue.

2006 Range Rover Sport HSE
 
#3 ·
It will sway pretty bad if one of your swaybar links has failed completely and is no longer connected. Tire wear is likely control arm bushings.
 
#4 ·
Bushing kit on Atlantic British fixed this issue for me but the labor on this is complex to replace. Get a quote for la or before investing in inexpensive bushings. These make the truck fell much more sporty and handling is a HUGE improvement but again check labor cost before buying parts.
 
#5 ·
Guys, I think getting the whole control arm + hardware kit is much better route to take. It would be just unbolt 3 bolts and disconnect ball joint to replace the arm and you get new bushings and new ball joint. It is a significantly longer to replace just bushings. What you hope to save on bushings VS arm, you will pay in additional labor costs which is just silly, plus you'd get new ball joint. whole arm is like $240 and should take an hour -hour and a half or so to replace assuming proper tools are at your disposal.
Very important:
Get a hardware kit as rear bolts have a tendency to cease up (you'd have to resolve this regardless bushing / arm, but if you have new bolts, old ones can be just cut)
Make sure your mechanic has a good anti-cease compound handy and use it generously on the new bolts as you assemble, don't be shy.
 
#9 ·
The front lower control arm bushings were checked out and they are shot. I’ll be replacing the lower control arm bushings this week. I also think my air springs have to go. I have way too much bounce and stiffness on the suspension compared to the supercharged version. I did a test drive on a S/C and it was way smother ride than my non s/c.
 
#12 ·
Just keep in mind that when/if Shock absorbent fails, because it is encapsulated in air bag, you won't see the oil spewing out of it. I have replaced my fronts at 70something K and one had oil leaking out of it once we layed it on the floor - means shock element had failed while airbag was perfectly fine, so shocks do go bad, sooner then airbags tend to leak air.
Since you'd be doing alignment anyway...
absolutely do order hardware kits with your LCAs, you will be happy that you did, have you mechanic use plenty of anti-cease compound as he installs those bolts.
Replace Sway bar bushings and Sway bar links do all 4, outer tie-rod ends. Those are not very expensive items and that way, you would not have to go in that area anytime soon. AirStruts can be swapped without need for alignment - so you know.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top