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2018 RRS 3.0 SDV6 HSE facelift
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Hi
Just joined your community and saw your post, which highly interests me!
I've been having this sound for a while, only much stronger than yours and almost al day through, every day...
Did you find the reason and fix it? Any hint will be appreciated, thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi
Just joined your community and saw your post, which highly interests me!
I've been having this sound for a while, only much stronger than yours and almost al day through, every day...
Did you find the reason and fix it? Any hint will be appreciated, thanks
Hey man! What year is your RRS? I haven't got it fixed it. It happens off and on, but today is one of the on days and its driving me nuts.
At least it does seem like its a somewhat of a common problem so there should be a fix. The times I have taken it into the dealership, it's not there, so they haven't been able to do much.
 

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I had similar squeaking in my '13 RRS SC. Continued for a couple of months until the Air Suspension Fault lights started coming on. Replaced front right shock and the squeaking was entirely gone.
 

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I had similar squeaking in my '13 RRS SC. Continued for a couple of months until the Air Suspension Fault lights started coming on. Replaced front right shock and the squeaking was entirely gone.
Ah this is good to know. Now 13 was the pre facelift version of the one I got right? Do you know if the suspension components are the same pretty much?
 

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2018 RRS 3.0 SDV6 HSE facelift
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Hi everybody, thanks for yr interest.

it is a 2019 MY RRS L494, 3.0l diesel 306 hp
Accidentally I had a job to do in the town where the dealership is and they were so kind to accept me for an inspection without a prior booking.
"Fortunately" the sound was there, so it took them 3 min to locate it - it was (and still is) one of the front right ball joints. Sorry, not sure about the exact name in English.
So they made an order and I went home, waiting for the parts to come. I a couple of weeks, luckily, I will have to go again and have this issue fixed.

Will report later
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hi everybody, thanks for yr interest.

it is a 2019 MY RRS L494, 3.0l diesel 306 hp
Accidentally I had a job to do in the town where the dealership is and they were so kind to accept me for an inspection without a prior booking.
"Fortunately" the sound was there, so it took them 3 min to locate it - it was (and still is) one of the front right ball joints. Sorry, not sure about the exact name in English.
So they made an order and I went home, waiting for the parts to come. I a couple of weeks, luckily, I will have to go again and have this issue fixed.

Will report later
Perfect. Yes please let us know. It will be a lot easier if we can tell the dealership where to look if we go in and the sound isn't happening.
 

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That's what I mean - one of those two..., rather the upper one
View attachment 283620
My bad eossai I didn't realize yours was new. The 13 was the last year of the previous generation. That said, the vast majority of suspensions are functionally nearly identical. What Fisher is describing is damage due to wear on a vehicle, which should not be the case with presumably less than 30k miles on it. Most likely your squeak is coming from the sway bar bushings if they are greasable. If not, then you have a defective bushing and the following may be helpful...

Fisher the part you're referring to is an outer tie rod. This will not make a squeaking noise as it fails, it will make a solid, deep, singular clunk noise that will happen moreso going over larger bumps. A ball joint on the other hand will make a slightly lighter sounding clunk that will happen over nearly every crack in the road. A bad ball joint will also tupically cause the steering wheel to jerk back and forth when driving over a rough road. Squeaking due to failure will typically only come from one of two places: control arm bushings or an upper shock mount. Control arm bushings will also clunk very similarly to a tie rod except instead of a single clunk going over larger bumps, the first clunk is followed by a second lighter clunk or a slight rattling sound. Control arm bushings typically only squeak when they're wet - so after driving through a puddle or in the rain. An upper shock mount will squeak even when dry but, depending on degree of failure, can cause a clunk that sounds exactly like control arms except for the rattle. Best way to tell the difference is to floor it and then slam on the brakes. If either or both cause the steering wheel to jerk, you have a bad control arm. If not, then it's a bad shock mount.

That will be $492.39 as a "standard in depth diagnostic charge". Will that be cash or credit? Lmao
 

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My bad eossai I didn't realize yours was new. The 13 was the last year of the previous generation. That said, the vast majority of suspensions are functionally nearly identical. What Fisher is describing is damage due to wear on a vehicle, which should not be the case with presumably less than 30k miles on it. Most likely your squeak is coming from the sway bar bushings if they are greasable. If not, then you have a defective bushing and the following may be helpful...

Fisher the part you're referring to is an outer tie rod. This will not make a squeaking noise as it fails, it will make a solid, deep, singular clunk noise that will happen moreso going over larger bumps. A ball joint on the other hand will make a slightly lighter sounding clunk that will happen over nearly every crack in the road. A bad ball joint will also tupically cause the steering wheel to jerk back and forth when driving over a rough road. Squeaking due to failure will typically only come from one of two places: control arm bushings or an upper shock mount. Control arm bushings will also clunk very similarly to a tie rod except instead of a single clunk going over larger bumps, the first clunk is followed by a second lighter clunk or a slight rattling sound. Control arm bushings typically only squeak when they're wet - so after driving through a puddle or in the rain. An upper shock mount will squeak even when dry but, depending on degree of failure, can cause a clunk that sounds exactly like control arms except for the rattle. Best way to tell the difference is to floor it and then slam on the brakes. If either or both cause the steering wheel to jerk, you have a bad control arm. If not, then it's a bad shock mount.

That will be $492.39 as a "standard in depth diagnostic charge". Will that be cash or credit? Lmao
Hey thanks for the info. What your PayPal? 🤣🤣
I'm bit hearing any clunking or feeling anything in the steering, at least not yet. Would prolonged time in water cause degreasing?
 

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2018 RRS 3.0 SDV6 HSE facelift
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Hey guys,
I still don't have my problem fixed. Parts delivery takes ages at our latitudes...
But, after a couple of days of riving in snow and rain the squeaky thing STOPPED!!
Now it seems alright.
It was a pure miracle that it showed up when I was at the Dealer's, otherwise I would have to suffer that ironic smile again.

LHarkness, impressive analysis!! Yet, mine seems to be sth different - it definitely has a lot to do with steering. You can (could..) hear it when you make left/right/left/right while the car is still, with engine running.
Time will show, hopefully next week
 

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My bad eossai I didn't realize yours was new. The 13 was the last year of the previous generation. That said, the vast majority of suspensions are functionally nearly identical. What Fisher is describing is damage due to wear on a vehicle, which should not be the case with presumably less than 30k miles on it. Most likely your squeak is coming from the sway bar bushings if they are greasable. If not, then you have a defective bushing and the following may be helpful...

Fisher the part you're referring to is an outer tie rod. This will not make a squeaking noise as it fails, it will make a solid, deep, singular clunk noise that will happen moreso going over larger bumps. A ball joint on the other hand will make a slightly lighter sounding clunk that will happen over nearly every crack in the road. A bad ball joint will also tupically cause the steering wheel to jerk back and forth when driving over a rough road. Squeaking due to failure will typically only come from one of two places: control arm bushings or an upper shock mount. Control arm bushings will also clunk very similarly to a tie rod except instead of a single clunk going over larger bumps, the first clunk is followed by a second lighter clunk or a slight rattling sound. Control arm bushings typically only squeak when they're wet - so after driving through a puddle or in the rain. An upper shock mount will squeak even when dry but, depending on degree of failure, can cause a clunk that sounds exactly like control arms except for the rattle. Best way to tell the difference is to floor it and then slam on the brakes. If either or both cause the steering wheel to jerk, you have a bad control arm. If not, then it's a bad shock mount.

That will be $492.39 as a "standard in depth diagnostic charge". Will that be cash or credit? Lmao
Good advice!

Every time I change the oil I crawl underneath with a grease gun with a flex tube grease zerk fitting, Valvoline Grease... and hit every single steering and suspension front end component that has a grease zerk fitting sticking out from it and lube the snot out of them. This makes all these joints and bushings last a long time and salt, road grime, dry rotting, etc ruin them quick. Another item to check/hit on are those CV Axle Boots. If you can keep them in good shape, full of grease, and no tears they last and last too!
 
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