[Balln2k16]

MY06 RR HSE is driving me nuts. I get two different suspension errors on my display everyday.

First error: "Extended Mode" (screen shows off road mode)

Second error: "Suspension fault don't exceed 30MPH" (horrible beep every 45 seconds)

My code read is giving me a ton of different faults, but here are some of the most popular:

"Lost communication with ride height module"
"Pressure doesn't **** venting gallery"

I have had it at two different shops recently. Each shop charges me $150 to tell me different things. One shop says its the ride height sensor(s), the other shop says I need a new compressor.

What I have replaced recently:

Suspension Dryer/new cap, silencer (new style), relay
Ride height sensor (passenger front) as it was showing much higher than all others
New Battery (Bosch H9)
Two New Arnott Air Shocks (previous owner did this)

None of these repairs have helped. What am I missing?

***Note***
Two days ago I picked my family up from airport. Had four people in the car along with bags in the back. Noticed I didn't get the "Don't exceed 30MPH" fault during that time and that time only.

Also unplugged my battery for 24 hours and didn't notice a change in ride height, so seems the air shocks are holding.

 

[titanium1.8]

Is your car's ride height actually at the fully extended mode? If not, then the computer is mistaken and there must be a fault with one of the many parts shown here:


http://workshop-manuals.com/landrover/l322-a/suspension/suspension_control_diagram/


From what I can see, there are four ride height sensors total. It's just a mechanical arm on each sensor so you can manipulate manually. Can you check all of them for damage and perhaps lock it at the lowest height position to trick the computer to turn off that 'high ride height' message?


I found this here:


http://workshop-manuals.com/landrover/l322-a/suspension/description/page_309/


If a fault occurs and the ECU can determine the ride height and the vehicle is not above standard ride height, the driver
will be notified via a 'AIR SUSP. INACTIVE' message in the message centre. If the ECU cannot determine the height
of the vehicle, or the vehicle is above standard ride height and cannot be lowered, the 'AIR SUSP. INACTIVE'
message is accompanied with an alternating 'MAX 35MPH' message.

 

[titanium1.8]

You can check out this thread too. http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-...82-range-rover-stuck-super-extended-mode.html

 

[Balln2k16]

This is great information. The 2nd link you provided is exactly my scenario. I do get the message that my RR is in "extended mode" yet the height of the vechicle is normal.

When I start driving the car, I get the "lowering" or "raising" notice, then it goes into "Extended mode". After about two or three minutes, I get the failure message "don't exceed 35MPH" message while my display shows "normal" ride height once I get the "don't exceed 35MPH".

 

[Balln2k16]

3 weeks later from my original post, the suspension drama continues. Two weeks ago i took my 06 RR HSE to another Indy shop as i believe the suspension issues are related to electronic issues. Over a week later I get my RR back, not repaired, but now have all corners on the bumpstops. They didn't want to fix anything as they felt more damage could be done.

The pump is working, but not lifting. I guess they used a fancy Snapon Tool to have the computer release the air, but it's not lifting. The pump does come on for about :45 and stops? Any ideas? Do I need a new EAS pump?

 

[leftlanetruckin]

By "pump is working", does that mean it makes noise, or have you tested the output of it????
The height sensors are electronic, not mechanical, so scrub that whole deal.
If the pump is running, you need to test the output of it. Various methids of doing that but if you leave a door open, engine running, how long does it take for the compressor to shut off?

Martin

 

[vinniman]

Balln2k16 - welcome.

How did you get on last week after your L322 Range Rover was sitting on bump stops.

I reckon the compressor is the culprit to start with, considering all the repairs to your EAS system you've performed there's not much else left to diagnose.

Cheerio,


Vinniman.
88 Hi-line
Perth, W.A.

 

[Balln2k16]

Balln2k16 - welcome.

How did you get on last week after your L322 Range Rover was sitting on bump stops.

I reckon the compressor is the culprit to start with, considering all the repairs to your EAS system you've performed there's not much else left to diagnose.

Cheerio,


Vinniman.
88 Hi-line
Perth, W.A.

I just order a new AMK compressor. Should be here this week. Will replace "remanufactured" Hitachi compressor. Pray it works. Hate to keep throwing money at the compressor.

I took apart the compressor again this past weekend after I noticed the solenoid would get extremely hot after :10 sec of the compressor turning on. I took apart the Solenoid and noticed it's not moving. Unfortunately you can't order a new one, just have to replace the entire compressor.

 

[diff]

I am curious if you found a cooling fan in your compressor set up. I had read that there is one identical to the ebox cooling fan but did not find one when I opened the protective lid on ours recently while I was diagnosing a noisy fuel pump. I thought this was for the 03-05's.

 

[TomCobbly]

Interesting that two air shocks were replaced by the previous owner. Failing air shocks can put a big strain on a compressor.

 

[Balln2k16]

I am curious if you found a cooling fan in your compressor set up. I had read that there is one identical to the ebox cooling fan but did not find one when I opened the protective lid on ours recently while I was diagnosing a noisy fuel pump. I thought this was for the 03-05's.

Didn't find a cooling fan inside my EAS compressor.

 

[Balln2k16]

Received new AMK compressor today. Did the Hitcahi to AMK swap in about 30 minutes. Also replaced with the new style relay. Suspension is alive again and no longer sitting on bumpstops. Will head to Land Rover tomorrow to get software update.

Very odd, that I'm back to my original issue from months ago "Extened Mode" and "Suspension Fault, don't exceed 30 MPH". Really hoping the software update will fix.

 

[Mrmerlin]

based on original info you should have taken the truck to the dealer first to reset the codes and check the software version
I hope it gets figured out .

NOTE if the height sensors were touched then they need to be re calibrated by the dealer before proper function is restored

 

[btmfuturesho]

I have an IIDTool which allows recalibration of the height sensors, and have done a lot of suspension work front and rear multiple times and every time I check the sensors and they don't need recalibration.

Theoretically they *may* need recalibration, but the often don't.

2006 L322 4.2L SC

 

[Balln2k16]

***Update***

My 06 RR is not any better after tons of $$$$ invested in the suspension from the day I purchased it over the summer.

Went to Land Rover today to have the new AMK compressor software updated (done).

Discovered I'm still getting a suspension fault with the same codes:

"Pressure doesnt decrease in the venting gallery"
"Air Supply"
"Lost communication with ride height module"

Land Rover also noticed a DTC that I have had for some time saying "Software update" when under the section of Instrament Pack. They didn't know what it was.

Long story short, it's Christmas Eve and they didn't want to spend too much time looking into the problems (needing to close early). I broke down in tears in the service area as I have spent so much time at different shops and tons of $$$ to be back at the start. Land Rover didn't charge me after all for the AMK software update as they feel horrible. All I asked for for Christmas is to drive my Truck without some kind of warning light or chime...

I heard of a random issue with a brake light/stop switch causing issues. Don't know if it's the problem as I plugged in my iCarSoft reader just now when I got home and got a warning on my screen for "transmission fault, limited gears available". Never seen that one before.

 

[MARK_C]

Hows your battery voltage?

 

[Balln2k16]

Hows your battery voltage?

I just replaced my battery less than a month ago. Only thing it could be is my alternator, but when I went to two different places to have tested, it checked out ok (a little low).

 

[RRToadHall]

"OK" and "a little low" is not good in the Range Rover arena. Although I would expect spurious messages and odd errors to be popping up if it were too low. What were the actual output readings under load? If they gave you a simple green light test...it was not a real test. If you have a multimeter there is a link in the faq above that will test your battery, alternator and your cables. This will identify a corroded cable impeding charge.

 

[Balln2k16]

"OK" and "a little low" is not good in the Range Rover arena. Although I would expect spurious messages and odd errors to be popping up if it were too low. What were the actual output readings under load? If they gave you a simple green light test...it was not a real test. If you have a multimeter there is a link in the faq above that will test your battery, alternator and your cables. This will identify a corroded cable impeding charge.

I did a test at a shop a little over a month ago and posted my results in another post. The feedback I received from the community was to replace my battery and I did.

Here are my original printout results:

Battery
Volts 12.36v
Measured 666 CCA
Rating 850 CCA

Charging Test
13.87v (no load)
13.88 (loaded)

I ended up replacing my Bosch H9 battery with another exact same brand new. The only DTC I noticed that was fixed from replacing my battery, was something about communications with transmission something. Other then that, no suspension issues were fixed.

Thank you all so much for the help and Merry Christmas!

 

[RRToadHall]

Is the charging test measured at the alternator or battery? What are your resistance readings for your cables? Shop tests rarely mean anything in the big picture as they leave so much of the charging circuit out of the picture. I am not saying this is your issue. However many many members have been fooled into thinking replacing the battery and or alternator will solve their issues when all they are doing is wasting money. You can have a tip top spanky new battery and an excellent alternator and still have lousy cables that don;t allow full charge to your battery. Think of it as a traffic jamb. You are flying along at 65MPH on an open freeway and run into back up from an accident. Suddenly only a portion of traffic is getting through. Same with your cables. Your power can be coming out of the alternator just fine, but if it runs into resistance only a portion of the power is getting through.