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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I’m thinking of buying this truck. It’s sweet. Hoping the collective expertise on this site can help me answer this question:


When I showed up to the dealership (used cars, not Land Rover dealer), the front end was low like this pic (apologies if the picture is super small) :

FF64E7D5-3BA1-40BA-99A9-64C5824EB904.jpeg


When turning it on and changing the suspension height, the actuators work but they do so in increments. Almost like a “pump pump pump” and then it’s at the desired height. In addition, the dealer says that there is a relay that can be pulled (?) and the truck will remain at a given height… attempting to make the point that it’s not losing air.

Is this normal?


If not, am I looking at a damaged suspension? There is no suspension fault light, in fact there are no lights on this 2010 RRS S/C at all.

Any thoughts or suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 

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I would say that front air strut has a slow leak, overnight it will bottom out and once the car is started the compressor fills it back up. Its definitely not normal.
 

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Dollars to donuts it's the front valve block(easy inexpensive fix) but could also be leaking airbags on each strut(more expensive but not hard to change out). It won't show any codes or have any stored error messages.

I've had this issue on/off with my 2006, now with 190k miles. My initial struts lasted to like 120k(shocks went bad, airbags were fine), but I had changed the valve block previously due to the front dropping overnight. Had issues with brand new Arnotts leaking and causing the same dropping issue - but I again changed the valve block thinking that BOTH new struts couldn't be defective(I was wrong - the air connections were bad). Went back to OEM struts and everything has been good for quite a while now. I could watch the gallery pressure leak down when the valve block was going bad. Both with the bad struts and bad valve blocks, it would do that "pump pump pump" as it was rising back up, but I think it sometimes does that occasionally anyway.

Removing a relay/fuse will only show that it doesn't happen immediately(hour or 2). If you remove the relay/fuse overnight, I bet it'll lower again because of the leak. If it doesn't drop, it's possible it's a height sensor or ECU issue.

Use this issue to get some money off the RRS. If you're DIY you can save yourself a lot of money. The air suspensions on these are relatively easy to repair - but diagnosing can sometimes be a bit daunting. Having a computer to actually look at what the air system is doing REALLY helps - I have a Blackbox Faultmate but there are newer systems. I bought that instead of the extended warranty and it's paid for itself, although I've had very little overall problems.

How many miles on this 2010?
Does it go to access mode and back up to off-road without issue?

(last year I had "calibrated" my heights. when I would lower to access to hook up a trailer, it would think it was hung up on something and raise up to extended mode. I'd have to keep a door open while backing up. a few weeks ago I re-calibrated heights to factory height and the access issue went away. I had thought it was a height sensor or control arm issue until realizing I had set the height too low last year. so a lot goes into the air system operation.)
 

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Ah ha, I looked at that same truck in Scarborough. The thing that turned me off was being supercharged and not knowing the service schedule. It would be coming up to have the tensioners changed...
 

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You might have another bargaining chip if they can't prove the "$7-$8k" timing chain / tensioner job hasn't been done yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hey all, thanks for the replies. I did end up buying it. The engine appears to be running fine but I'm under no illusions: it will likely require repairs at some point in its future. Kinda have to be prepped for that going in on a LR. But that's why I buy them used - the price is right and for the cost of a 2012 Rav4 I get the sweet thrill of driving a 2010 RRS SC.

And the price was definitely made right based on this forum's expertise so I thank you for that.

Pretty certain that the "pump pump pump" was as @geflackt mentioned: it only does that occasionally (as in that time at the dealer was the only time the pumping has occurred). I will now be looking into front valve block as per @kosep and @geflackt -- I have a great guy here in Toronto, Avo Demirjian at Westminster Motors so technically he might be looking into it, but if it is as easy a fix as you all have experienced I will definitely give it a go.

Thanks again for the feedback!
 
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