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Discussion Starter #1
So it seems my 04 HSE w/ 60k miles has finally joined the rest on the suspension issue. Since about 6 months ago, the indicator "airsuspension inactive" came on, which my RR mechanic addressed by just resetting the code. It helped but each time the light came back quicker and quicker. Couple of weeks ago, I got a new light that says "selflevel susp inactive" with "max 35mph." With this new light, the front suspension has crapped out with the driver side completely down. With only the "airsuspension inactive" light, the height would just be stuck in the standard ride height.

So my RR mechanic tells me that my suspension is gone and need replacement parts. Spending thousands of dollars on a new OEM replacement doesn't make any sense. I'd be spending a third of the value of this car to fix the suspension. It seems my options are refurbished air suspension or switch to a coil system. Could my mechanic be overlooking anything else? I did the search here but found only a handful of info. Someone please help~~~
 

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858.

As I've suggested on a previous post, should you consider hanging onto your FFRR for a while, than the "Altantic British" new coil spring conversion kit looks hard not to notice the long term benefits and less hassle than dealing with factory air bellows !

The only reason I'd replace an OEM airbag suspension with 'Arnott'' or stealer dealer fixes is if you decide to trade-in the truck ?

Cheerio,


Vinniman
'88 Highline
Perth, W.A.
 

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What does he mean by 'the suspension is gone' ?

Did he check the air lines, individual bags for leaks? There could be a host of reasons and he should have done more than clear fault codes every time you got the message.

In any case, keep the air suspension - it's part of what makes a Range rover what it is, converting to coils will lose you alot of off-road ability, self-levelling etc.
 

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Unless you searched 'EAS gone' and didn't find anything, I can't really see how you could not find all sorts of info on the EAS: there is all sorts of info there. Check the main site, too.

It sounds to me like your mechanic is either too lazy to talk to you or doesn't know air suspensions. Get yourself someone who can do a diagnosis and tell you what the probs are. Then talk to Dennis at Rover Renovations (sponsor - look). I agree w/Leo: don't castrate your RR.

And don't listen to Vinnie. He drives a coil sprung RRC. Back 15 years ago, he would've been in a leaf sprung LR damning those newfangled coils :wink:
 

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Sounds like you need a compressor (I'm on number 3) and front or rear bags. Should have bought that extended warranty :thumb:

I did, that's why I still own my 04.
 

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Roverrad95 said:
Sounds like you need a compressor (I'm on number 3) and front or rear bags. Should have bought that extended warranty :thumb:

I did, that's why I still own my 04.
That's not normal to be on your 3rd compressor. You must have a slight leak somewhere in the system.
Either valve block or air bags
 

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The first one went out at 30k miles, it shorted out due to the cold weather in Chicago, the second happened 2k miles later. The third one has been good (knock on wood).
 

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Perhaps your moron mechanic shouldn't have been resetting the warning light for 6 months whilst you drove around causing further damage to the car? Or maybe you think the warning light is there for kicks?

More than likely you have a leak, your compressor is running non-stop hence why they are burning out and you're having to replace them. They don't "short out" because its cold.

If you'd fixed the initial problem (by actually reading the code and diagnosing the fault) then you wouldn't be in this situation now. Don't blame the car with statements like "seems my 04 HSE w/ 60k miles has finally joined the rest on the suspension"

"Since about 6 months ago, the indicator 'airsuspension inactive' " - Maybe you should have addressed the problem then?

"So my RR mechanic tells me that my suspension is gone" - Quite right, its just gone. Don't worry, we'll just guess at what you actually mean by that shall we?

"Could my mechanic be overlooking anything else?" - More than likely as he's obviously stupid.

"I did the search here but found only a handful of info" - Really? Perhaps refer to above.
 

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Similar thing just happened to me for the first time this morning on the way in to work. I turned the truck on and "Air Suspension Inactive" displayed on the dash and stayed there the whole ride in to work. As well, the truck didn't lower as it normally does once I hit highway speeds consistantly. I guess I'll take it to the dealer and have it checked? Not looking forward to this...
 

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Always Always Always get the fault codes that were pulled from the vehicle computer. Keep a running log of the faults over time. There is nothing preventing you or your mechanic from repairing the original cause of the EAS fault. The components themselves are not terribly expensive and fairly easy to replace yourself.

Your own fault code reader would also help you perform the work yourself and keep the maintenence costs down. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks guys. The mechanic that I am dealing with is a reputable one listed on this site. The problem is intermittent. The car has stayed in normal height the last several days. Doesn't that mean that it's not a leak? According to the mechanic, the leveling switch is also a concern. The car lowers on demand but it doesn't rise until several attempts are made. My concern is with so many other variables that can cause this problem besides the actual air suspension itself, how do I get to the bottom of it? My mechanic is suggesting the coil conversion. Anyone here used Arnott, Strutmasters or Atlantic British? If I decide to do an air suspension replacement, I am concerned that the problem could be someting else.

Dan_UK_1984 - You are lucky your ### is behind a computer screen. Dont say nothing if you can't help.
 

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858sd said:
Dan_UK_1984 - You are lucky your ### is behind a computer screen. Dont say nothing if you can't help.
Why? because otherwise you'd wait until school is finished and beat me up. Grow up.

And I didn't say "nothing", I said something (sorry if English is not your first language). If you pull your panty string out of your ass crack and read what I said then maybe you would have figured a few things out for yourself.

If there is a leak then this explains why you are going through compressors, there are various different scenarios that will lead to the various warning messages, whether there is a leak, a stuck sensor, an out of range sensor, a stuck valve, a faulty pressure switch etc etc etc.

Download the workshop manual and read the "Description and Operation" section, it's about 20 pages long (it even has pictures) and will literally tell you everything you need to know to be able to figure out problems for yourself, you may even then be able to help others. You might also get pissed when someone doesn't bother to read it and then asks you a stupid question.

Also you should let us know who your mechanic is, regardless of how highly recommended he comes if he is just resetting your faults without telling you what the fault is then that is terrible service, that as you've found has actually cost you more in the long run.

Read the manual, get some ideas of your own, post back and you will find that people will fall over themselves to help you in any way they can.

Dan
 

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Dan, I think it was someone else who was 'going through compressors'.

858, try another LR mechanic, just for a second opinion. Any idea what the fault codes were?

It could be as simple as a faulty sensor or compressor, so don't rush to change everything just yet.
 

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Leo said:
Dan, I think it was someone else who was 'going through compressors'.

858, try another LR mechanic, just for a second opinion. Any idea what the fault codes were?

It could be as simple as a faulty sensor or compressor, so don't rush to change everything just yet.
My bad, I read one of the other posts above, speed reading, sorry :oops:
 

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Obviously its fault dependent, but I had a very similar issue. First occurrance the dealer reset and all seemed OK again. Wait a few weeks and it happened again. What I found was if I left the RR in normal height it would operate OK, but if I lowered the car to get out at night, then next morning it wouldn't pump up again. Turned out to be a worn compressor pump. Replaced and all OK at a cost of £100s not £1000s.
 
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