Thanks - no issues with the air lines? just focus on the compressor and the front struts? For the compressor, is rebuilding worth it or should I go new?
Thanks - no issues with the air lines? just focus on the compressor and the front struts? For the compressor, is rebuilding worth it or should I go new?My 2010 and 2011 pretty simple - replace front struts and rebuild the compressors. No issues since. If your front struts are over 10 years old, renew them.
Check the date codes on the strut.
Particles of grit build up in the compressor piston. Grit and dust also block the filter/dryer inlet. The compressor needs to come apart to be cleaned. Same for the filter/dryer (or order new) So between those two issues you get reduced compressor performance and high comp temperatures.
is this the correct product: https://www.amazon.com/1310476-Moly...locphy=9015329&hvtargid=pla-382786851799&th=1when you take the airlines out use DC111 on the sealing O rings this will keep them soft esp when its cold out
That's a good question. I will call them this morning and ask them about it. I assuming he will say what mode???Did the shop perform your alignment in “tight tolerance mode”?
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Thanks - I will probably just swap out the front suspension and be done with it. Is this the correct rebuild kit for the compressor:When you have faults and leaks, usually fixing the leak with eliminate the fault. Unless its bee leaking for some time, then the compressor dies from over work. That's how people end up with multiple things wrong with their EAS. Check you date codes on the front bags. If they are from '11 or '12, they are pretty much guaranteed to be toast and have held on longer than average. Start there. I'm not a "throw parts at it person" but air springs have a finite life. If your compressor need rebuilding, the system will be slow to respond even when not leaking. Rebuilding what you have is is fine probably better than a new replacement. Your wheel bearings should be fine at 115k. But you mentioned replacing lower control arms as they were toast. Those might be originals so the rest of the control arms, ball joint, sway bar links, and tie rods probably need replacing as well. If all this stuff is original, its going to drive like a new RR.
What you your thoughts about changing out the valve blocks while I'm doing this other stuff?Thanks - I will probably just swap out the front suspension and be done with it. Is this the correct rebuild kit for the compressor:
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Amazon.com: LAND ROVER LR3 / LR4 AIR SUSPENSION COMPRESSOR REPAIR OVERHAUL KIT PART: JPO500010 : Automotive
Buy LAND ROVER LR3 / LR4 AIR SUSPENSION COMPRESSOR REPAIR OVERHAUL KIT PART: JPO500010: Air Suspension Kits - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchaseswww.amazon.com
Seems like there should be more to it.
Found this one:
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For Land Rover Discovery 3 4 LR3 Range Rover Sport Hitachi Compressor Repair Kit | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for For Land Rover Discovery 3 4 LR3 Range Rover Sport Hitachi Compressor Repair Kit at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!www.ebay.com
The ebay kit matches this one but it's in the UK
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Range Rover L322 - Oem Hitachi Air Suspension Compressor Repair Kit related to C1A2064 Diagnostic trouble code - 4x4 Air Seals
MODEL YEAR VARIENT Range Rover L322 td6 tdv8 2006 -20011/12 3000cc and 3600cc Diesel 4200cc SC Petrol Company info 4x4Airseals – Uk supplier, manufacturer and innovating company of Air suspension compressor related products serving customers in the Uk and worldwide longer than any other...4x4airseals.com
That sounds like a good start. I'll order the rest of the suspension parts along with tie rod ends and leave the air compressor for now. After rebuilding, I can test it and see if the problem is fixed. If it's all set, I can plan to have the front end aligned.I think replacing multiple parts at a time isn't a great idea unless you are really confident in your skills. I would replace the front air springs. Good chance your problem is solved right there. If you do that, have an airtight system, and it adjusts slowly, then replace the compressor. I have a '99 P38 with the original compressor that still works fine. The valve block shouldn't need changing. To my understanding, a compressor that fits an LR3/LR4/RR Sport, does not fit a L322. Perhaps the differences are only connectors, I don't know. But there were also two brands used, AMK and Hitachi. I would pull your spare and remove the cover to verify what you have.