[Special Ed]

I did it on mine friday.

1. Its a kinda big job, be prepared.
2. At 90,000 miles mine was all rusted and coming apart. the spring fell out when i pulled the old coupler off. Mine had a initial on it like it might have even been replaced before.
3. Replace the front and rear coolant pipes while you are in there.
4. i used the poly aftermarket green one so as to not have the thing come apart again.
5. good time to change the supercharger oil.
6. I upgraded the supercharger pulley while i was in there.
7. The 2 connectors on the back of the supercharger (one goes to the symposer and the other to the coolant temp sensor are the same. Label them when you take them off so you dont mix them up.
8. Good time to clean the carbon off the valves.

and and and. i could totally go on. There is a lot of things shortcut wise i found too.

 

[Special Ed]

Shoot, questions, questions, questions. Ha. See if I can get all of them.

No special tools needed but then again i have a lot of tools.

There is no oil in the nose of the supercharger. There are no gaskets needed to do the job. the intake gaskets are steel and reuseable. There is no gasket on the nose of the supercharger, just reseal with sealant. The factory coupler is made of hard plastic with a metal spring. They come apart with time. The design is to reduce shock loading of the supercharger. The neoprene one is self cushioning since it is not hard plastic. Mine had a 1/4 turn of play in the coupler of the supercharger before it would engage the rotors. I noted some wear on the 3 locating pins from the spring rattling around but not worth replacing.

lastly, To do the snout/coupler you have to remove the drivers side "manifold" off the supercharger. (only the drivers side.) There is 1 bolt underneath that you have to lift the supercharger to get to. At this point just remove the thing from the car so you can work on it. The snout is really stuck on between the 2 dowel pins and sealant it has to be pried apart.

And by all means change the 2 POS plastic coolant pipes (front lower and rear cross over.) The front one is known for blowing the side out and overheating the engine.

 

[Special Ed]

Oh and leave the Symposer in place. Dont have to remove it at all. Just unhook the quick connect at the top hose and there is an elbow with one bolt in it. Leave everything else in place. As you pull the supercharger forward and up you can unplug the electrical connector from it.

 

[Special Ed]

p1zaul,

yes. I did everything I could to not go back in there and prevent future maintenance needs.

 

[Special Ed]

hi Rob,

did you get an answer on this elsewhere?
I took my RR sC to the stealership yesterday for a service and to diagnose a noisy idle - sounds like a sewing machine at times.

The told me they found sources of noise:

1. Supercharger isolator - $2200
2. Timing chain tensioners and guides - $4500

holy cr*p!!
Looking online it appears one can get hold of the superchargers isolator kit for under $200, so can only assume the dealership are putting a massive markup on parts or the job is a real b*tch and take a couple of days...

I'm defintely up for the challenge of doing that myself.
Timing chain situation not so much - as i'm sure thats a lot tricker to get to...but again wondering how much the parts actually cost for that.

Keen to understand how long these things would take - and if there are any friendly mechanics in and around richmond, VA who might fancy some beer lol

Matt

The isolator you can get the green neoprene one for 30$ on ebay. Ditch the crappy plastic thing the factory is using. As for labor, if doing the chains at the same time there is complete overlap. maybe charge a couple hours at the most to remove and reseal the nose cone. The chain price is about reasonable for doing them.