Supercharger Coupling Replacement
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Is this the same as an isolator? If so, my 2011 is at the dealer right now getting this done along with timing chain, tensioner, and rails.
I did it on mine friday.
1. Its a kinda big job, be prepared.
2. At 90,000 miles mine was all rusted and coming apart. the spring fell out when i pulled the old coupler off. Mine had a initial on it like it might have even been replaced before.
3. Replace the front and rear coolant pipes while you are in there.
4. i used the poly aftermarket green one so as to not have the thing come apart again.
5. good time to change the supercharger oil.
6. I upgraded the supercharger pulley while i was in there.
7. The 2 connectors on the back of the supercharger (one goes to the symposer and the other to the coolant temp sensor are the same. Label them when you take them off so you dont mix them up.
8. Good time to clean the carbon off the valves.
and and and. i could totally go on. There is a lot of things shortcut wise i found too.
1. Its a kinda big job, be prepared.
2. At 90,000 miles mine was all rusted and coming apart. the spring fell out when i pulled the old coupler off. Mine had a initial on it like it might have even been replaced before.
3. Replace the front and rear coolant pipes while you are in there.
4. i used the poly aftermarket green one so as to not have the thing come apart again.
5. good time to change the supercharger oil.
6. I upgraded the supercharger pulley while i was in there.
7. The 2 connectors on the back of the supercharger (one goes to the symposer and the other to the coolant temp sensor are the same. Label them when you take them off so you dont mix them up.
8. Good time to clean the carbon off the valves.
and and and. i could totally go on. There is a lot of things shortcut wise i found too.
Yeah same as the isolator, i was thinking of changing just the oil but then figured maybe I should change the coupling as well before I put new oil in. Is this something that can be done myself with basic tools or leave up to a shop?
Current: 2016 Range Rover SC - Previous: 2013 Range Rover Sport SC
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If you are a DIY type, then your own tools should be sufficient. As SpecialEd indicated, it appears to be a lengthy job due to having to remove parts to get to the SC. I am presuming that you have to replace the gaskets as well as the oil? Never done this before but used to work turbos. My '13 RRS SC has 64k miles with no issues on the SC but am curious about the oil. I have read on this board that the '13 on up have a new SC for the 5.0l engine due to problems with the 4.2l types.
SpecialEd, what made you want to go with the poly vice OEM coupling?
SpecialEd, what made you want to go with the poly vice OEM coupling?
yes gasket is a liquid gasket and the oil would need to be drained and replaced after. The oil is pretty simple to change. just thinking while it is drained if worth the effort to change out the coupling since it is prone to failure. i have heard the Poly holds up better and had increased damping properties. I was thinking this could somehow be done by just undoing the bolts and just moving the snout forward but i don't think it is that easy.
Where did you get the parts from? Gaskets, oils and such? From the workshop manual I see you have to use guide pins as well when reinstalling, did you use old ones or purchase new ones? I’m thinking of doing same thing. Recently I changed my water pump and noticed that supercharger pulley has a little play and I’m not sure if that’s normal or not. It rocks back and forth by half inch
Shoot, questions, questions, questions. Ha. See if I can get all of them.
No special tools needed but then again i have a lot of tools.
There is no oil in the nose of the supercharger. There are no gaskets needed to do the job. the intake gaskets are steel and reuseable. There is no gasket on the nose of the supercharger, just reseal with sealant. The factory coupler is made of hard plastic with a metal spring. They come apart with time. The design is to reduce shock loading of the supercharger. The neoprene one is self cushioning since it is not hard plastic. Mine had a 1/4 turn of play in the coupler of the supercharger before it would engage the rotors. I noted some wear on the 3 locating pins from the spring rattling around but not worth replacing.
lastly, To do the snout/coupler you have to remove the drivers side "manifold" off the supercharger. (only the drivers side.) There is 1 bolt underneath that you have to lift the supercharger to get to. At this point just remove the thing from the car so you can work on it. The snout is really stuck on between the 2 dowel pins and sealant it has to be pried apart.
And by all means change the 2 POS plastic coolant pipes (front lower and rear cross over.) The front one is known for blowing the side out and overheating the engine.
No special tools needed but then again i have a lot of tools.
There is no oil in the nose of the supercharger. There are no gaskets needed to do the job. the intake gaskets are steel and reuseable. There is no gasket on the nose of the supercharger, just reseal with sealant. The factory coupler is made of hard plastic with a metal spring. They come apart with time. The design is to reduce shock loading of the supercharger. The neoprene one is self cushioning since it is not hard plastic. Mine had a 1/4 turn of play in the coupler of the supercharger before it would engage the rotors. I noted some wear on the 3 locating pins from the spring rattling around but not worth replacing.
lastly, To do the snout/coupler you have to remove the drivers side "manifold" off the supercharger. (only the drivers side.) There is 1 bolt underneath that you have to lift the supercharger to get to. At this point just remove the thing from the car so you can work on it. The snout is really stuck on between the 2 dowel pins and sealant it has to be pried apart.
And by all means change the 2 POS plastic coolant pipes (front lower and rear cross over.) The front one is known for blowing the side out and overheating the engine.
Oh and leave the Symposer in place. Dont have to remove it at all. Just unhook the quick connect at the top hose and there is an elbow with one bolt in it. Leave everything else in place. As you pull the supercharger forward and up you can unplug the electrical connector from it.
p1zaul,
yes. I did everything I could to not go back in there and prevent future maintenance needs.
yes. I did everything I could to not go back in there and prevent future maintenance needs.
Special Ed (or anyone else who has done this), roughly how long would you say it took you to do the job? I noticed about a 1/4 turn of play in mine as well when I was in replacing a dead water pump the other day. I am comfortable doing the work myself, but tend to work pretty slow. For reference, a dealership here in the bay area wants ~$2200 to do the job. Extra brownie points if you know the part numbers for the front and rear cross over pipes.
hi Rob,
did you get an answer on this elsewhere?
I took my RR sC to the stealership yesterday for a service and to diagnose a noisy idle - sounds like a sewing machine at times.
The told me they found sources of noise:
1. Supercharger isolator - $2200
2. Timing chain tensioners and guides - $4500
holy cr*p!!
Looking online it appears one can get hold of the superchargers isolator kit for under $200, so can only assume the dealership are putting a massive markup on parts or the job is a real b*tch and take a couple of days...
I'm defintely up for the challenge of doing that myself.
Timing chain situation not so much - as i'm sure thats a lot tricker to get to...but again wondering how much the parts actually cost for that.
Keen to understand how long these things would take - and if there are any friendly mechanics in and around richmond, VA who might fancy some beer lol
Matt
did you get an answer on this elsewhere?
I took my RR sC to the stealership yesterday for a service and to diagnose a noisy idle - sounds like a sewing machine at times.
The told me they found sources of noise:
1. Supercharger isolator - $2200
2. Timing chain tensioners and guides - $4500
holy cr*p!!
Looking online it appears one can get hold of the superchargers isolator kit for under $200, so can only assume the dealership are putting a massive markup on parts or the job is a real b*tch and take a couple of days...
I'm defintely up for the challenge of doing that myself.
Timing chain situation not so much - as i'm sure thats a lot tricker to get to...but again wondering how much the parts actually cost for that.
Keen to understand how long these things would take - and if there are any friendly mechanics in and around richmond, VA who might fancy some beer lol
Matt
The isolator you can get the green neoprene one for 30$ on ebay. Ditch the crappy plastic thing the factory is using. As for labor, if doing the chains at the same time there is complete overlap. maybe charge a couple hours at the most to remove and reseal the nose cone. The chain price is about reasonable for doing them.
thanks Special Ed.
researching the isolator - tht seems like something I would be comfortable doing.
Just moved to the states from the UK and the RR is our only car at the moment so need to time it for when the wife isn't needing the car for a day or so.
timing chains sound a bit more of a job and maybe something I should not embark upon myself.
wouldn't want to cock up the engine. eek
will have to save my pennies for that one. oucheee
researching the isolator - tht seems like something I would be comfortable doing.
Just moved to the states from the UK and the RR is our only car at the moment so need to time it for when the wife isn't needing the car for a day or so.
timing chains sound a bit more of a job and maybe something I should not embark upon myself.
wouldn't want to cock up the engine. eek
will have to save my pennies for that one. oucheee
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